[Jeff Higgins]

I guess I kind of glossed over my cleaning methods above, so here's a little more detail.

For muzzle loaders with removable barrels, I dunk the breech end in a cut off bleach bottle full of hot tap water. I then pump that water in and out of it with the cleaning rod and jag fitted with a tight patch. I start with the nipple in place to provide some more resistance to water flow, so I can get more pressure and a better swirling action down in the breech area on the downstroke. I then remove the nipple to get more flow. Once it's clean and the barrel is good and hot, I dry it with a couple of patches down the bore and a towel for the outside. I then run a really wet patch with Hoppe's #9 on it down the bore, and wipe the entire outside of the barrel down with one as well. That's about it.

For muzzle loaders with fixed barrels, I plug the vent hole or nipple (I remove the lock first) and pour the hot water in the barrel with a funnel. I then start the cleaning rod/jag/patch and remove the plug, and ram as fast as possible to get that swirling action going in the breech. I do that until the patches and water come out clean, the barrel is hot, and then finish up with the #9.

Breech loaders and revolvers get cleaned just like modern firearms; I just start with water instead of solvent. Two or three wet patches down the bore and through each chamber in the cylinder do it. Then they get dried and get the #9 treatment like the muzzle loaders.

A great alternative to the #9 is plain old WD40. I hose down the outside pretty liberally, spray a bunch down the bore and onto a patch, then work it into the bore.

Again, I have never had a gun rust when cleaned in this manner. I think the heat helps with the muzzle loaders in drying out the breech area, but is unnecessary in the breech loaders with no "water traps". This has worked for me for 40 years.