That's horrible! Something is wrong. I know others running them and spooling pretty quick.

My monster 73mm turbined Borg-Warner S366 is hitting 1-bar around 3500 I think?

I’ve ordered another Garrett gt35r from Chris. I never seem to get screwed with that combo.

I'm very happy with that turbo. The boost comes on early and linear with the true twin scroll system I have. I think its the combination of twin scroll and programmable ignition, but my car drives like a normal NA car that accelerates like crazy above 2,500.
I don't miss the late kick in the azz style of boost at all.

I attribute the NA curve to being modern turbines and the twin-scroll.

Old school open housings with older turbine designs were just so inefficient. On/off switches.

Kind of miss the sledgehammer hit.

The china gt3582 is switch feeling. Above 4200rpm it’s like a rocket. Fun but I miss the response if my earlier gt30r. With that turbo I have full.8bar at 2900rpm. Nice.

Nice numbers

My feeling is its a combination of comfort level with existing hacks (mostly mechanical) and a lack of understanding of programming/tuning/electronics in general with many mechanically oriented people.

Ditto.

MegaSquirt has a huge following, but I don't recommend learning from them.

MS was designed for the electrical engineer/computer programmer. All of what you learn from their documents are written with their fields jargon.

If you are like me, well the older me, you didn't know what they were really talking about half the time.

I have *****ed and complained in the years past to just put the electrical connections at the very top of any instruction, followed by all the EE and programming logic one cared to type about.

Like, wire B to D, A to C, etc. Problem is, they explain a theory, and tell you somewhere in the minutia, to hook one component to the next.

Next paragraph, more theory, then somewhere buried in the text, you see the next set of connections. It's very cumbersome.

Not sure how other EFI manufacturers are doing it, but MS can be time consuming just trying to figure what to do next.

I'd admit, they are getting much better.

Well, I don't have the CIS intake as the car had PMO carbs when I bought it.. So I figured if I have to get an intake the 3.2 was a nice intake to get...

Gotcha. Yes, it might make more power with it versus a stock CIS intake

The more reading I do the more I like the idea of a bit of boost... though that is a dangerous road. lol

What are you guys doing for ignition? Twin plug or CoP?

Tippy, tell me more about your intake set up, sounds interesting?

Wheres the best place to get oil for the turbo. Thinking the tensioners (maybe not enough pressure) or the Cams (maybe too much)?

Going to be gravity drained with a catch can.

Chris

Put a tee where the idiot light switch is at the triangle-o-death.

BTW the china turbo seems to be getting weeker by the day. And very inconsistent. Excited for the goods.

I am in the final stages of planning a conversion to add the Protomotive turbo system to my 3.4L motor. My car is an ’87/G-50. I rebuilt the motor about 3 years ago (at 113K), and have put about 6K on the new build. The 3.4L includes Max Moritz, single plug pistons at 9.8:1 CR, bored throttle body, ported heads, 20/21 cams, etc. In the conversion, I will go with the Stage 1 version:. GT30 turbo, Tial wastegate, 36# injectors. I will use my Eisenmann long tube header/heat exchangers (1.65 O.D.), with a J-pipe, and single outlet muffler on one side, with wastegate dump on the other (so it looks like a dual-out system from the outside). Boost limit is .5 bar. They use the stock DME, with a reprogrammed EPROM (proprietary Protomotive maps).

The reason I am doing this is pretty simple: I wanted a bit more power (who doesn’t). The next mod I was looking at was going to ITBs. By the time I priced out the system (I was keen on the AT Power set-up), it came out to be around $8-9K, including trying to find a competent tuner for the controller. All of this would MAYBE get me 25 more HP. By going to the Protomotive kit, I will spend less, have a proven reliable system (lots of good threads here on success stories for sure), and end with at least 100HP more (I am already at about 225 RWHP now). The solution is also reversible.

I have been going through the project with Todd Knighton at Protomotive. Great guy, very helpful. I will send some items to him for conversion (like the headers, which will be modified for V-clamps, tins, EPROM chip etc.), and he will send me a completed kit, which was built-up on his 3.2 “fixture” motor (turbo, tubes, lines, connectors, FPR, etc.). I will do the install this winter, and try to update my progress here.

The idiot light location like mentioned above.

This oil line was for my Garrett:

https://parts.turbokraft.com/collections/911/products/turbocharger-oil-feed-line-set-garrett

That sounds awesome but maybe look at a larger turbo as the gt30r is great but a little small for 3,4l. gt35 is more appropriately sized..
Todd knows more than me.

Thanks a lot, Quattrorunner . Yes, I discussed the two options with Todd (GT30 vs. GT35). In my case, I really can't take advantage of the higher output of the GT35 because of the CR of my engine (already at 9.8:1). Boosting more that .5 bar would mean a tear down and new pistons and I don't want do that now. Here is Todd's view on the GT30 vs. GT35 to me:

"The 35 is pretty overkill for this. The gt30 is fantastic for drivability and is far superior in boost response. The gt35 would be a bit harder to fit. But we could run both if you planned on going st2 route with an engine build and lowering the compression for more boost later on. The gt30 would run out of steam for that application where the 35 would be nice there. so, yes, it depends on your ultimate goal."

I am pretty geeked to get going, for sure. And, by the way, I have appreciated your inputs on this forum, in many threads. Thanks also for that.

You know you all that extra power won't do you any good if you drive it like a pussy:D:D:D

That's right, Todd. You should know...:D.