My Turbo Project : Adding a turbo to a 3.2.
 

I had that idea in my mind for a while, and I finally decided to go a head and invest into that project. I tried to get things done as cheap as possible (I know what you're thinking, but at least I'm trying my best to keep the cost low), so far these are the parts that I have purchased with their price :

1- Pulsar Chinese turbo GT35 style : $600.
2- CX Racing intercooler kit : $280
3- Microsquirt ECU : $360
4- TurboSmart 40mm wastegate : $280
5- Used turbo headers : $180
6- Clewett Engineering crank pulley with built-in 36-1 trigger wheel : $420
7- EDIS ignition parts : $200
8- IAT & TPS sensors : $35
9- misc parts : $100

Total cost so far : $2455

The 1st step I did was modifying the IC, it was very straight forward, I cut off the inlet pipe and drilled another hole to align it with the turbo outlet :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596334416.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596334416.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596334416.jpg
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596334416.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596334416.jpg

Then I started modifying the engine tin to accommodate the turbo and the inlet/outlet hoses.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596337493.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596337493.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596337493.jpg
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596337493.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596337493.jpg

I'm very happy with the fitment, the IC fits very well but hopefully it will flow as good. My next step will be installing the Microsquirt ECU and doing all the associated wiring.
I know this build is far below the standard, but I'm trying my best to get it as simple and effective as I can.

I don’t know anyones standard this is below and if there are then they don’t count anyway.

This is a crazy cool project and I for one am excited to follow it. I’ve been thinking about doing it for years but I don’t really want my car down while I do it. At least that’s my weak excuse.

Keep taking pictures and updating the thread, I’m sure there are many people following but maybe not commenting so don’t let a lack of commenters get you down. We’re still here just watching quietly
Good luck
Tony

How big is the automobile scene in Qatar? Are there numerous tuning shops or barely any?
Good luck with your project! You’ll need to work out turbo oiling, sumo tank, and a scavenging pump situation. Don’t think I saw that on your list.

I'm all about garage builds. Standards don't matter when you have the gut's to try something the first time. I've had mine for 16 years and there's still things that I want to redo after "experimenting" with them the first time. Have fun with it since these cars got to the point where people weren't doing this for awhile.

I'm curious why you think you need EDIS for this project.

With the 30-1 trigger wheel and a VR sensor plus your Microsquirt there's no need at all for EDIS, it just complicates the problem.

Thanks for the kind words, I'll do my best to document my project here.

It is quite big, people loves car sports in general and we have quite few racing clubs, but unfortunately not so much with the classic Porsches. There are plenty of tuning shops, mostly American and Japanese cars, to tune my MS I need to get in touch with the JDM guys here as they mostly use it. My idea about the oil scavenging is to use gravity to get oil back to the oil drain plug in the case, this is a dual ball bearing turbo and should not need large amount of oil, I will try this way otherwise I plan on using a small electric scavenging pump to take the oil back to the oil tank.


I got a totally stock '87, so I thought I should play around with different things on this '77.

A question for all the guys who did a turbo conversion : What did you do with all the vacuum lines connected to the throttle body?, I believe I need to secure all of them very will so they wont pop out during boost, right?

Nice project you got going there and in no way is it "below standard".

I'm amazed at how nice the aluminum on your engine looks, no moisture corrosion I guess unlike here. And no need for heat!

Very cool. Subing.
Btw I’d plan now to just get an electric oil pump to draw the oil out and into the breather cover. It’s pretty simple and most guys end up doing it anyway.

Kamaro, the vacuum lines shouldn't be a problem. I bought new vacuum lines and just plugged them into the stock 3.2 throttle body when I plumbed everything. I haven't been able to do too much tuning yet, but it has seen 170-180 kpa enough and I've had zero issues with lines staying on. From the turbo to boost controller and all the lines on the throttle body, none of them have clamps or anything. I will say the one thing I did do was be meticulous about making sure the lines and fittings were all sized appropriately to work together.

Agreed most vacuum lines are just fine as is. Larger lines that are clamped on the na car obviously need clamps.

For those that were needed (e.g. I am currently using one for MAP, the one below the butterfly) I purchased new silicone tube.

For those unneeded (all the rest) I purchased silicone caps then used a little safety wire tightened around them to ensure they won't blow off.

In the past two days I was working on removing all the stock DME and its harness from the car, and then I custom-made a new harness for the Microsquirt ECU, that took a lot of time since you need to do everything from scratch and making sure you got all the wiring right, it wasn't too hard but really was time consuming. Then I made a mounting bracket for the ignition coil pack and the EDIS module out of 1/16 in aluminum sheet and bolted it to where the heater blower was on the intake, I feel this is the best location for it away from the heat and with good reach for the spark wires.

First, I tried using a generic Bosch TPS and made a simple bracket to attach it to the throttle body, it worked very well with only one issue, the connector will face down and hit the intake plenum, I solved it by soldering wires directly to the sensor and problem was solved, but then I decided to go ahead and buy a nice TPS with a proper bracket from Clewett, it was a bit expensive but well worth it. I decided to put a new fuse panel in the engine compartment to power everything controlled by the ECU. Now I have everything loosely connected and I tried to connect to the ECU with my laptop and it was working as it should. Next step will be doing some wire management to get everything as tidy and clean as possible.

Now my next task is to discover my way into tuning the ECU to at least get the engine running. Anyone got a Microsquirt/Megasquirt base file for a stock 3.2 with EDIS? .. That would be a great way to start learning how to tune this thing.




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Keep the pictures coming! Looks great.

Why are you using EDIS? It is completely unnecessary and just adds complication.

I thought its a simple and reliable ignition system. Honestly, I have no background in regard to all this, I'm learning my way through so if you have a better idea to control the ignition please let me know, I'm here to learn from you guys :D

All you need is a crank position signal, probably a VR sensor with 30-1 or 60-2 wheel.

Microsquirt cannot run sequential ignition for a 6-cylinder, but runs wasted spark just fine. So, no cam position needed.

MS can fire either COPs or smart coils directly, they get their 12v separately from the signal. Should be powered by a relay controlled with the fuel pump relay.

EDIS just sits between MS and the ignition components, but the MS is fully capable of doing everything without EDIS. The only thing you get with EDIS is "limp home mode" which if everything fails gives a static ignition timing (I forget what, 10 btdc maybe). But, since you're also using the MS for injectors, that limp home mode isn't going to help you much :)

I'd scrap it. Run VR1 directly with your crank position sensor, use IGN1, IGN2, and WLED or ALED as IGN3 to drive your ignition coils.

Flightlead, you got me convinced, its so handy to control the ignition directly and to be able to test each coil independently, but I came into an issue, I just can't get the Ford coil pack to work with the ECU, I tried connecting a single LS coil to the IGN1 and it worded fine, but nothing out of the Ford coil pack!, does it need a specific parameters in the software to run?

I'm not sure on the ford coil pack. I have actually had great luck with these.

An added benefit is they greatly simplify the installation, you don't have to find somewhere to mount the coil pack, fabricate a bracket, or route fat ignition leads. There I've saved you from finding space for and mounting two big components now, lol the EDIS and the coil pack.

I do recommend the hold-down's for them. Turbokraft has some (the bends need to be massaged a little for best fit) or simple to make your own.

Here are the connectors.

I used 18awg shielded three conductor mil-spec tefzel wiring and as I mentioned provide the +12v power from a relay controlled by the purple fuel pump control on the MS (you don't want to leave them powered up for a long time with the engine not running they can heat up).

Each of the 4-wire Toyota coils feature an inbuilt ignitor. This results in a direct connection between the ECU's ignition outputs and the coils trigger signal input.

Looking at the connector on the COP, from left to right:

[Pin 1] Earth / common ground: This grounds each coil to the body / earth, an electric connection to to the cam cover alone is not at all suggested.

[Pin 2] IGT / trigger: The signal wire to activate the firing of the coil, triggered directly from the ECU's ignition output. These can paired with another coil for a waste spark connection, for example using three ECU ignition outputs (IGN1, IGN2, WLED) to run six coilpacks.

[Pin 3] IGF / ignition feedback: Used by OEM ECU's to confirm the firing of the ignition coil. If a coil malfunctions the ECU will sense the lack of this fire confirmation and put itself into a fault / limp mode. This is not normally used at all with an aftermarket /stand-alone ECU and hence only three wires are used for each coil.

[Pin 4] Power (+) / ignition power: This is the main power supply for all of the coils, this power feed is activated when the key is turned to the "Ignition" position. The most common and suggested method of connection during a conversion on a four cylinder is to remove the power feed from the original single ignition coil and use it to power all four of the new coilpacks.

I've got more info on dwell and other configurations in tunerstudio when you get to that point.

Oh, very important and a little counter intuitive. In Tunerstudio use "Wasted Spark" NOT "Wasted COP".

Some pics of my ignition harness.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596733271.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596733271.jpg

Some update :

I have decided to go with COP instead of EDIS as per flightlead404 advice. I'm happy to take that step as it seems like a much better ignition system. I ordered a set of COPs and pigtail connectors and since it will take some time to arrive (thanks to COVID!), I have decided to fill my time with some other stuff, I decided to go through my fuel system (new tunnel lines and new pump), this is where I was shocked to see how dirty my fuel tank is!, the strainer on the drain plug was completely deteriorated, and found a ton of rusty debris inside!, I will do my best to clean it out and ordered a new drain plug and some gaskets from PP.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598266303.jpg

Next, I decided to drop the engine to swap the 915 with the SBH 930 I have laying around, where I discovered that I needed new longer bellhousing studs, I ordered a set of them and when I installed them I found that they are a bit longer than needed .. I can use some spacers, but it wont look as nice. anybody knows the correct part numbers for these studs on a SBH 930?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598266490.jpg

I just did this exercise on my SC.

Note that Porsche does not include the portion of the thread that is screwed into the case (~15mm). So when they say a stud is 115mm, it's actually 130mm end to end. Keep that in mind if you order a stud from say, Grainger.


Starter side of bell housing (Pax Side):
Bell housing width = 93mm
Starter flange is 12mm
I needed at least 115mm stud (bolt/washer is 10mm)
900-061-081-01-OEM STUD M10 X 115(1980 Porsche 911 SC Coupe)(m) These were on special order from Germany with a 5-6 week wait. I declined and used a steel 125mm stud from Grainger.

Bottom Left (Pax Side) and Top Right (Driver Side):
Bell housing width = 70mm
930-101-175-00-OEM Crankcase Stud (M10 X 85mm, sold individually)


Bottom Right (Driver Side):
Bell housing width = 64mm
I ended up reusing the one in there and flipped it 180. That gave me a little more thread.

Oh, so thats what missed up all of my measurements! .. I thought they were talking about the total length (which makes more since in the first place), I wish I knew that before spending the time and money.

Thanks so much for the info., I will go ahead and order them today.

I love that you have a 930 SBH just laying around....

I have all but given up on my stupid 911.

Your project gives me hope... if only I had a SBH laying around. LOL

It wasn't laying around before he bought it and prepped it.

Yeah thats true, I have bought it a while a go already been shortened and prepped, it was used but in over-all good condition, I took it apart to see what I was getting and it looked decent, anyway I will find out when I will have the car running again.

I was literally quoting what he said.... relax. geez. ;)

I just got the engine/trans assembly back in the car, everything went very well except when I wanted to install the trans mount, the bolt holes on the car chassis doesnt line up with the mount, they are 25mm far as seen in these pics :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598662713.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598662713.jpg

I got the 930 mount used from a fellow forum member, it looks the correct one, I couldn't find any part numbers on it, is it the correct one? :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598662819.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598662819.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598662819.jpg

I'm ready to cut/weld the mound to the correct shape, but would like to hear from you first.

BTW, I'm sure the trans is in the correct spot, the clutch, shifter, gas pedal rod, are all aligned correctly and working as they should.

That being the turbo support, have you tried rotating it 180°?

Rotating it 180 makes things even worse.

This is the way the alignment problem was handled by a PO when my turbo conversion was done.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598697000.jpg

Thanks for the photo, I will take a different rout of cutting and welding the stock mount.

I went a head and cut the mount into three pieces, I think thats the best way to do it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598713664.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598713664.jpg

I came into another issue, the rear cover of the transmission is hitting a metal piece on the chassis :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598713664.jpg

Now I need to remove the engine/trans again to get some clearance there.

I thought installing a 930 trans was the easiest in this project, it turned out to be its the hardest!

I finally managed to fit the 930 trans correctly. Thankfully everything went very well, and now the engine/trans fit in the perfect position.

I cut and welded the stock 930 to make it at 25 mm off-set. My welds look like ***** but I think its strong enough.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599275273.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599275273.jpg
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599275273.jpg


Before I install the engine for the final time, I decided to modify the stock fuel damper bracket to use it to hold the Turbowerx scavenging oil pump, I decided to put it here to keep it cool, it will return the oil back to the engine case through the vent cover that I drilled and tapped in a AN6 make fitting.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1599275273.jpg
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I'm expecting to get the COP coils tomorrow, so I will spend the weekend doing the ECU wiring.

9/30 Update :
 

I have been busy during the past few weeks, so no real progress happened to the project, except for the past few days where I was working almost daily during night, so here is the update :

I bought a cracked and tired turbo headers for cheap a while a go, I knew I will do that project one day!, so I started by trying to fix it by TIG welding a few cracks here and there :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg

I think it came out reasonably good, at least it would serve me for a year or so!

Next, I noticed that my turbo did not have a boss to drill and tap NPT threads to fit a barb fitting for grtting a boost signal, so I added some material using my TIG machine to get some good thread count for the NPT threading, it came out real nice (except for my rookie welds!) :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg

I was searching for a good sized muffler that would be free-flowing, not so loud, and with side 3 in. inlet and two-side 2.5 in outlets, I found that MagnaFlow are the only place that has such a thing, so I ordered one (wasn't cheap!, $125!), it BARELY fit :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg

I want to elminate the use of any T fitting for the vacuum hoses, so I used a piece of 1 in diameter aluminum bar stock to fabricate a simple vacuum manifold, it came out nice and perfectly served my need :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg

Next, I welded on the blow-off valve to the inlet side of the intercooler, I know its better to fit it on the outlet side, but I'm running low boost anyway, and hopefully that wouldn't make a big issue.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg

Here is the final mockup of the intercooler in the engine bay, it fit nice with no interference with anything, I'm happy so far :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601499410.jpg


That was my latest update, hopefully with in the next few days I'll be able to start it up for the first time and at least try to get it to idle. wish me luck!

New Update.
 

Since my last test drive, I have noticed a tremendous amount of heat getting into the engine compartment, although I have used a turbo heat insulation cover, but it didn't help much, so I decided to disassemble everything and put in a real insulation foil :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604871006.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604871006.jpg

Then I decided to build a real muffler pipes with some good looking dual tips :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604871006.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604871006.jpg

I found a dual exhaust tip, I cut it into two separate tips, it turned out to be looking great.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604871006.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604871006.jpg

The great thing about it is the total cost of the whole muffler and end pipes and tips, less than $200 total!

Now the sad part of the story, I have a nasty oil leak on the passenger side of the engine :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604871006.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604871006.jpg

I tried to find the source of the leak with no success, I suspected the engine oil cooler, but its bone dry underneath the car, I wonder of the boost of the turbo would pressurize the engine case and cause the oil to seep out of the valve cover, I have the same breather hoses routed from the case to the oil tank as it was originally from the Carrera 3.2 engine, do I need to delete the breather hose going from the oil tank to the throttle body elbow? .. I even thought of cleaning the oil and fixing a go pro camera inside the engine compartment and drive the car to figure out where exactly the oil is coming from!

I didn't have any issues when I converted my SC to turbo. No leaks before and no leaks after (10psi) When I recently pulled everything out for the transmission swap, I put on new valve cover gaskets. I'm now getting a small bit of oil seeping from what I think is both valve covers. I sort of predicted this as I though the valve cover gaskets were the cheap type without the blue gasket seal material. Sure enough, I started seeing a leak from that area... When I change the oil next, I'll use better valve cover gaskets.

I doubt you're getting leaks at the valve covers because of the boost. You shouldn't need to delete the breather hose. But I'm sure the pros will chime in with a better educated opinion than mine.

Excessive crankcase pressure is related to excessive blow by in 99% cases.
You can check whether you will get crankcase pressure when driving off boost for some time.