Lower engine to remove stock air cleaner?

[donbecker1234]

Is it normal to need to lower the engine (via engine mount bolts) to remove a stock aircleaner on a 930?

I wasn't sure how much adjustment there is in the four engine mount bolts and maybe I have my mount set too high?

[tops911]

I can get mine out when I remove the AC compressor belt and slide the compressor all the way over. Still tight though

[donbecker1234]

Originally Posted by tops911

I can get mine out when I remove the AC compressor belt and slide the compressor all the way over. Still tight though

Do you have an engine pad? I have a pad on mine, but it's so tight I think even without the pad I'd need to lower the engine a bit to get it out.

[pkabush]

That’s crazy. I haven’t had my A/C compressor or stock filter installed for years but I never had to lower the motor to remove the stock filter housing.

[donbecker1234]

Originally Posted by pkabush

That’s crazy. I haven’t had my A/C compressor or stock filter installed for years but I never had to lower the motor to remove the stock filter housing.

I'm wondering if it's related to the engine mount bracket being either installed incorrectly or in some strange position?

My car was originally an M491/Turbolook with no 930 engine, but I don't recall any actual differences in the engine mounting.

[pkabush]

I know the motor on 930s are set further back by 1”. I’m not sure that’s the case with the M491 but, since it has the 3.2 and the 915 I’m guessing not. That could be the difference.
Moving to a aftermarket air filter doesn’t help with power gains but it certainly clears a lot of room in the engine bay. Something to consider.

[donbecker1234]

Originally Posted by pkabush

I know the motor on 930s are set further back by 1”. I’m not sure that’s the case with the M491 but, since it has the 3.2 and the 915 I’m guessing not. That could be the difference.
Moving to a aftermarket air filter doesn’t help with power gains but it certainly clears a lot of room in the engine bay. Something to consider.

Oh great point. My car has the original G50 in it, so I'm not sure how that might factor in.

I purchased the K&N cone filter that some recommend here on the forum, but it seemed like it might not fit due to my situation.

[Matt at Pelican Parts]

According to our DIY article which is said to cover 930 as well, I claims it should only be a 15 minute job or so to change just the filter. to remove the whole cleaner assembly you might need to remove some brackets and accessories.

DIY: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/04-Air_FIlter_Repl/04-Air_FIlter_Repl.htm

-Matt

[pkabush]

I have the K&N cone filer as well. It is a tight fit in the 930 so it may not work in your situation.
If not there are other options that are shorter and round. I forget the brand but Brian (Rarlyl8)
had one on his previous 911/930. Hopefully he’ll chime in with the needed info

[pkabush]

Also, keep in mind that you need to make a small V notch out of the rubber base of the K&N
It’ll be obvious when you go to install it.

[DaytonaCoupe66]

The stock air cleaner gets four bananas on the frustration scale. I recall that the a/c compressor needed to be moved to open the hatch where the filter is and I may have had to remove the entire housing to get enough clearance, which means also removing the intercooler. Still easier than messing with the engine mounts. I was told that the #1 spark plug requires an engine drop but that turned out to be a myth.

[Bucketlist]

I Have a 930 drive line in my SC which has caused space problems a few times. When I first decided to pull my stock air cleaner it came out without a problem and I wanted to install the cone at that time but couldn't make it fit so I installed a short MR. Gasket filter which had to be modified to fit the mount. Since I still wanted the cone filter I eventually lowered the engine a couple of inches (which was easier than expected) and installed the cone. I also removed the rubber bumper assembly from the top of the AFM to give me more space. Removing this item hasn't caused any problem that I'm aware of.

[RarlyL8]

The air cleaner assembly can actually be removed without removing any other component such as the intercooler or A/C compressor. It takes a lot of patience and there is a specific order to it. First all of the attachment points are loosened including the nut on the lower bracket which is reached with a socket extension and the top two long bolts. Everything. The oil tank vent hose is pushed out of the way. You can then pop the back of the air box off the air meter assembly. pull the whole thing up slightly (you will need to push up against the engine sound deadening mat) and swing the rear of the assembly towards the fire wall. You can now wiggle the mailbox side past the hoses and obstacles obstructing it. Some of these boxes may need the air snorkel removed to perform that last maneuver. It is very tight and requires patience but in most cases it can be done.

[donbecker1234]

Originally Posted by RarlyL8

The air cleaner assembly can actually be removed without removing any other component such as the intercooler or A/C compressor. It takes a lot of patience and there is a specific order to it. First all of the attachment points are loosened including the nut on the lower bracket which is reached with a socket extension and the top two long bolts. Everything. The oil tank vent hose is pushed out of the way. You can then pop the back of the air box off the air meter assembly. pull the whole thing up slightly (you will need to push up against the engine sound deadening mat) and swing the rear of the assembly towards the fire wall. You can now wiggle the mailbox side past the hoses and obstacles obstructing it. Some of these boxes may need the air snorkel removed to perform that last maneuver. It is very tight and requires patience but in most cases it can be done.

On my car, the tight point is the portion where the two long bolts go into the air meter. With the engine bolts tightened, the air box can't clear the air cleaner.

[timc]

no

[DaytonaCoupe66]

Originally Posted by RarlyL8

The air cleaner assembly can actually be removed without removing any other component such as the intercooler or A/C compressor. It takes a lot of patience and there is a specific order to it. First all of the attachment points are loosened including the nut on the lower bracket which is reached with a socket extension and the top two long bolts. Everything. The oil tank vent hose is pushed out of the way. You can then pop the back of the air box off the air meter assembly. pull the whole thing up slightly (you will need to push up against the engine sound deadening mat) and swing the rear of the assembly towards the fire wall. You can now wiggle the mailbox side past the hoses and obstacles obstructing it. Some of these boxes may need the air snorkel removed to perform that last maneuver. It is very tight and requires patience but in most cases it can be done.

I expected there was a way but despite an abundance of patience I couldn’t crack the secret handshake. I was never good at a Rubics cube either. The intercooler and ac compressor are now easy removals after a lot of practice for various issues that I wish I hadn’t needed. When I bought the car it had the k and n cone filter but the mailbox was included so now it’s on…punishment I guess.

Incidentally….shameless plug. I received your hooligan Gt3 style exhaust, 2 piece valence, and new wastegate. Beautiful craftsmanship on the ‘muffler’ and the valence, and super customer service in all respects. You know your stuff.

Cheers.

[RarlyL8]

Thank you!

On my car, the tight point is the portion where the two long bolts go into the air meter. With the engine bolts tightened, the air box can't clear the air cleaner.

The 2 long bolts are left hanging in place. Once the air box is pushed back a touch you can pull them up enough to clear the air meter housing.

It is a secret handshake of sorts, there is only one way to cock it that allows clearance enough everywhere to remove. It's a bit of back and forth but it will wiggle out of there. Putting it back is a similar pain as it is hard to reach all the attachment points. The oil tank vent hose for example has to go through a metal loop on the box as it is being wiggled back into place.

[Alan L]

"Incidentally….shameless plug. I received your hooligan Gt3 style exhaust, 2 piece valence, and new wastegate. Beautiful craftsmanship on the ‘muffler’ and the valence, and super customer service in all respects. You know your stuff."

+1
Racing this w/end Brian. Fingers crossed for 7006 mod.
Alan

[Alan L]

Go for K&N.
And they are washable.
Alan

[pkabush]

Agreed. No secret hand shake needed. I’m not sure why Im still hanging onto my original filter box
Perhaps I’ll make an actual mailbox out of it one day