Engine out light refresh!

[FirstDotLast]

Hi all!

I got my 1986 930 about 12-13 years ago and it now has about 36k miles. I’ve noticed an ever increasing amount of oil underneath the car after it’s parked and observed a handful of leaks.

One is certainly from the crankcase breather area . This car is a bit of a survivor, it’s pretty much original except for the Rarlyl8 exhaust. It runs on the original A/C, smog pump, clutch, even many original fuses and relays. Anyway, it was time to drop the motor and transmission to tackle some of the leaks and deteriorating rubber parts. The original engine sound pad basically completely disintegrated in the engine bay. I’ll be documenting the process in this thread. Thanks for following along!

- The car in question



- Engine and transmission successfully dropped! (along with some of the leaks visible)



- Beginning of disassembly - transmission separated and original pressure plate, exhaust off

[FirstDotLast]

Getting the engine went pretty smoothly. Only missed one or two hoses getting it down.

Originally, I was just planning to reseal the leaks, check all the hoses, and put the motor back but as I'm getting in to it, I'm finding a lot of stuff to clean up and do preventatively.

I'll be planning on getting all the engine tins and pulley cover cleaned up, blasted, and re-powder coated black. I'm also finally removing the smog air pump and octopus pipe.

- The main offending leak


- Turbo bolts that look very fun to get off

[FirstDotLast]

First major question/hang-up...It looks like someone JB welded this pipe in to the intake manifold with far too much product. It 100% did not come from Porsche like that. I can see it restricting the airflow inside this pipe as well. As the kids say...someone cooked here.

Does anyone know how this pipe was originally inserted in to the intake manifold?? Or what the proper way for this pipe to be inserted in to the manifold it?

[FirstDotLast]

Next surprise. I wasn’t debating doing a clutch job this time but I popped off the pressure plate and clutch to find the disc had some gashes in it. So time for a new clutch anyway. The flywheel and PP seem mostly ok and smooth aside from some heat marks so I’ll likely just have those turned somewhere.

[gsxrken]

Your car looks great even though it’s the same color as Paul’s car.
I’d suggest you take a long look at your black plastic intake manifold spacers as most of them have cracks in them after almost 40 years. Also, might want to check your injectors spray patterns and consider new ones if you don’t have a nice pattern. Those two things can really smooth out the idle on these cars. Also, I’m not aware of anyone resurfacing a PP, but I imagine it could be done. Make sure whoever cuts your flywheel is knowledgeable about the ridge on the 930 ones. Might want a Porsche specialist or CGarr on this board to do the work…

[FirstDotLast]

Originally Posted by gsxrken

Your car looks great even though it’s the same color as Paul’s car.
I’d suggest you take a long look at your black plastic intake manifold spacers as most of them have cracks in them after almost 40 years. Also, might want to check your injectors spray patterns and consider new ones if you don’t have a nice pattern. Those two things can really smooth out the idle on these cars. Also, I’m not aware of anyone resurfacing a PP, but I imagine it could be done. Make sure whoever cuts your flywheel is knowledgeable about the ridge on the 930 ones. Might want a Porsche specialist or CGarr on this board to do the work…

Thanks for the info! I have an ultrasonic cleaner and was planning to clean out the fuel injectors nicely. I may be able to get them flow tested nearby.

I’ll reach out to CGarr or if anyone knows of a reliable Porsche specialist that can turn a flywheel in NJ PA or NY that would be great. You can see from the pics the surfaces don’t look terrible on the flywheel and PP but new ones are about $1500 vs reusing these ones.

[Jeff NJ]

I had Powertech in Rockaway NJ blanchard grind my flywheel when I did my clutch. They are an Indy Porsche specialist. Very happy with their work. They also aligned my car after I replaced all the suspension rubber.

If your PP is shot, you may want to consider the lightweight sachs clutch conversion that Turbokraft sold me. Your original PP is very heavy and the sachs one does help to rev more freely.

I'm in Sussex County NJ if you are nearby.

[Alan L]

I think it is JW, or maybe Chris at TK that recently posted they don't bother with resurfaced flywheels any more. Replace. Having said that, I had mine resurfaced last yr - because I had it out. I am not quite sure what their objection to it is, but it may be worth posting the query on the 911 Tech section.
That Y pipe with the JB - as far as I know, that is how they were fitted - some epoxy thing. It may be it has come out at some point - maybe someone tugging hard on a hose, or dinging it as the pic suggests. but basically that is how they are fitted.
Alan

[FirstDotLast]

@Jeff I'm in Somerset County so not too far off!

Engine is torn down as far as I'm going with it to the block. Will clean up everything, remove tons of corrosion, start replacing seals and parts and putting it all back together.

[FirstDotLast]

Thanks for the info all! Looks like I'll be buying a new flywheel in that case. As for the pipe in the intake, I guess I'll leave it and try to remove what I can from inside the pipe to ensure that there is correct airflow.

[Alan L]

That pipe is not breathing a lot. I think the diameter will be to accomodate the fittings on the other end.
I had my flywheel plate resurfaced. I don't see why it should not be done - but whichever engine builder posted that thought - about replacing- must have some good reason. It might be worth sounding that out first.
Alan

[Jeff NJ]

Chris at Turbokraft suggested to me to Blanchard grind my flywheel. I'm sure there is a minimum thickness post grinding though.
Give Powertech a call and see what they say. Mine was done like 9 years ago and it's still perfect. Spend that money on something else if you can, IMO.

[krasuskyp]

Bwahahahahaa Kenny! Guilty as charged. Hopefully my black cloud following me around avoids him lol.

OP, welcome! Cool you're embarking upon this - it's an awesome project and an incredible way to become intimately familiar with your car and one that you'll forever remember. I've long said dropping one's engine on these is a rite of passage for ownership. Do better than me tho and ensure you catch your TOB ears w/ your clutch fork upon case-mating... nottttt fun otherwise.

It's such fun seeing a stocker dropped like that - soooooooooo mannnnnnnnnnny things my setup has LOST... phew! Talk about a diet.

You're doing all the right things tho and some great suggestions here. Might as well do valve adjustment and cover gaskets and chain cover gaskets while in there.

Never ever seen a clutch disk scored like that - maybe got some road debris in there at some point? Odd. Agree w/ Jeff's LWPP suggestion, my alum one allows for notably better free-revving... defffffffffff worth it.

Might as well get TK's billet injector set too while at it - them orig plastic bits asking for trouble. Also the BOV piston-end seals - clack clack. And ultrasonic the heck out of your WUR / AAV / fuel head while at it 8-) A sorted fuel system is a MUST on these. Check your green dizzy wire too.

The "while you're in there" can grow infinite certainly, tackle as much as your budget and knowledge and ability and time allow while you've got this opportunity - your car deserves it and you'll be happy you stretched yourself to get there... don't rush / skimp (tempting!).

Looking forward to your updates, and be certain to check back here for summer turboPALOOZA details since you're pretty local to us Northeastern'ers here...

[FirstDotLast]

Ah forgot about the blow off valve seals, will add those to the list. Lots of ultrasonic cleaning happening on the cleaning front, I got the engine bay cleaned up today while waiting for parts and put a brand new sound pad in. This Motorplast stuff did a great job cleaning everything up.

[Jeff NJ]

That engine bay looks clean!!!

When I dropped my motor, I spent a LOT of time cleaning the engine, trans, bay, underside, you name it.

I did a bunch of bolt on upgrades and other maintenance while I pulled motor for a clutch issue, so the slippery slope is real!



Some suggestions- fuel lines are MUCH easier to change with the motor out. If they're original, ethanol is not doing your lines any favors.

Engine/trans mounts wear out and should be replaced.

Valve adjustment is much easier with engine out.

Here is my upgrade thread if you want to peruse it and get any ideas.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/845988-time-upgrade-jeff-njs-930-a.html

[FirstDotLast]

Awesome thanks Jeff! I looked through your thread and think I had much of it covered for now.

I have been speaking to Len about new fuel lines and should be getting those as well. I did a valve adjustment and replaced all the suspension bushings within the last few thousands miles but while everything is coming out I was debating having the Bilsteins rebuilt.

[Jeff NJ]

That's great to hear you're ahead of the curve! Len is a great resource and his product is excellent.
The front lines by the pump are a bear, but with the engine out, the tunnel and rear lines are much simpler to do.

I did the Bilsteins then because I wanted to keep the original shocks/struts. I'm glad I did, because now I know, a long with the suspension rubber replacement, that my suspension is rock solid and one less thing to deal with down the road.

[FirstDotLast]

I’m debating repainting the fan shroud. The OEM one was this orangish red color and mine has some scratches but it’s in decent shape overall and you can’t see it much under the intercooler and everything when it’s in the car. Not sure if I should have it repainted or even take a crack at it myself.

[Jeff NJ]

IMO, you are able to see so little of it and mine cleaned up well enough to leave it alone. The fan is much more exposed and lends itself to refinishing, but it's magnesium and isn't easy to do. In my thread, you can see the guy that did it and the results. Still holding up very well too!

[jjeffries]

Shroud: have you tried working on it the way you would paint, i.e., compound then polish? Even if done by hand could yield major improvements.

For touch-ups, Chevy engine red-orange is a close match.

John