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1983 930 trailing arm issue

I have a 1983 930 with a hopefully small problem. The passenger side rear trailing arm. Where the shock is bolted to the trailing arm it appears to have a hex shaped part that may be pressed in. That part is actually loose on my car. It won't come out (or Yet) but bangs around when driving. I don't know if it can be replaced, welded in, or even what the trailing arm is made out of. Thanks for any information!
Old 11-08-2006, 12:20 PM
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That doesn't sound good. The trailing arm is aluminum. I don't have my car in front of me so I not sure what the set up is. Have you taken the shock loose to examine the piece? The bolt that goes into it gets pretty good torque so I can't imagine it's just pressed in. I think it would have to be held tight when the bolt's torqued. I'll try to remember to take a look at mine tonight.
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Old 11-08-2006, 01:54 PM
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I'm pretty sure it's pressed in and 125 Shifter is correct, your arms are aluminum.

Here's a picture of the part in question...my arms are off the car during the cleaning/resto/upgrade process.

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Old 11-08-2006, 02:06 PM
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I have taken the shock off and replaced the bolt and can move the piece in the trailing arm. It doesn't appear that that section goes through the entire trailing arm so i am not sure how it stays in. It is loose though. It just appears to be a threaded hex shaped piece is just pressed into the trailing arm. If the trailing arm is aluminum i can't weld it so not sure what to do now. Buying a new trailing arm isn't cheap and would like to solve this another way. Thanks for your reply!
Old 11-08-2006, 02:07 PM
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Thanks jstgermaine, that is the part. The Hex part in mind is loose and can float in/out about 3mm or so as well as around like a joint
Old 11-08-2006, 02:10 PM
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You could probably find a used one, but they're still not cheap. Have you tried putting a bolt in it and see if the piece pulls up tight in the hole like it's tapered? I really can't imagine Porsche would just press (or cast) a hex shaped piece in there.
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Old 11-08-2006, 02:18 PM
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I don't know if it's tapered...I can't move the piece at all by hand with the hole empty...and threading the shock bolt in doesn't allow me to make any movement either.

I don't know if it would acceptable but couldn't a welder versed in aluminum welding close up the gap? How about some of that Alumilalloy infomercial stuff? On the other hand, if it were mine, I would probably replace it with a good used arm.

By the way David...great looking motor! I hope mine turns out as nice.
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Old 11-08-2006, 02:29 PM
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Any ideas where to get a good used one? They seem extremely expensive for what i have seen. I will have to check into whether or not that is something worth trying to weld or just replace. I keep the car in a garage about an hour away and only get to see her on the weekends
Old 11-08-2006, 02:38 PM
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dc automotive and parts heaven are the only two I can think of. I think DC had a 930 a while back.
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Old 11-08-2006, 02:58 PM
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Problem is that nobody wants to sell just one side. They want to sell in pairs. And they aint cheap.

Some how it's wallered out and getting it to fit tight again is going to be a real trick. If you could pull it out all the way, then maybe you could knurl the outside surface of it and reset it with JB wled or something.
Old 11-08-2006, 03:21 PM
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Here'es an elcheapo fix that will probably outlast the car.

Clean out the cavity around the steel insert real good with brake clean or contact cleaner. Allow it to dry over night. Possibly put some aludin (sp?) in there to promote adhesion to the aluminum.

Mix up some good epoxy (intended for bonding metal) and inject it in the cavity around the insert with a syringe. One this hardens, it should have reasonable compressive strength and stop the insert from floping around in the trailing arm. You may want an epoxy with some filler in it to increase the compressive strength.
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Old 11-08-2006, 04:08 PM
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weldup around the area to capture the steel insert..
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Old 11-09-2006, 03:40 AM
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