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River Rat
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: 1000 Islands NY
Posts: 404
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Partial engine drop??
I'm trying to route my oxygen sensor for my HKS boost controller through the 1/2 opening as seen in the picture (see screw driver tip in center of pic). The problem is the sensor needs a 1 1/4" opening and the current opening is only 1/2'.
So, can I partially drop the engine and open the gap enough to sneak the sensor through? If so, do I just put a jack under the engine case, remove the rear engine mount bolts and let the engine drop? How much can I safely drop it? Do I need to undo anything else? I appreciate the help. Regards, Dave 
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1986 930 - K27-7200, Andial Intercooler, Tial Wastegate, Electronic Boost Controller, B&B headers, Bodart Zork, Leask Adjustable WUR, Full Elephant Racing Suspension w/Adustable Spring Plates and Von Shocks, Wevo Transmission Mounts, Fuel Safe Fuel Cell, Forgelines (9"/11"), Hargett Shifter, Innovate AFR, Cobra CF Seats, DAS Rollbar, Coleman Floating Rotors, Lightweight Interior, Forgeline 17" x 9"/11", 2800 lbs. |
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12-10-2006, 03:38 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Cheraw, SC
Posts: 811
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I'd think you could drop it just low enough to do that.
Main thing I can think of is the shift linkage to the trans. You don't want to bind that up. For the 1.25 inches you need at the rear, you'll be moving stuff up front a very minimal amount, so I can't really think of anything else that would cause you an issue. Brian
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Brian Keith Smith |
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12-10-2006, 04:48 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 22
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Why don't you borrow a set of electral conduit ( KNOCK OUTS} and enlarge The hole to what size you need.You would have to remove nothing
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12-11-2006, 05:48 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Cheraw, SC
Posts: 811
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Or the other option is to use one of you heater hoses. Pull the hose out, run the wire through that opening, then put the heater hose back into place.
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Brian Keith Smith |
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12-11-2006, 09:09 AM
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River Rat
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: 1000 Islands NY
Posts: 404
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Guys, thanks for all of your advice.
I ended up dropping the motor and it worked out perfectly. I had a local welding shop weld the bung on my tailpipe and it's all good. I have driven the car, but did not have the opportunity to get on the boost due to some rain in the area. I did note that the AFR is very steady, as compared to previously, where the numbers were constantly changing. I'll post again once I can get a log file and check the AFRs. I am still planing on dynoing the car on Wednesday, as it's a lot safer than doing some big runs on the street. Thanks again, Dave
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1986 930 - K27-7200, Andial Intercooler, Tial Wastegate, Electronic Boost Controller, B&B headers, Bodart Zork, Leask Adjustable WUR, Full Elephant Racing Suspension w/Adustable Spring Plates and Von Shocks, Wevo Transmission Mounts, Fuel Safe Fuel Cell, Forgelines (9"/11"), Hargett Shifter, Innovate AFR, Cobra CF Seats, DAS Rollbar, Coleman Floating Rotors, Lightweight Interior, Forgeline 17" x 9"/11", 2800 lbs. |
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12-11-2006, 12:44 PM
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