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wcc wcc is offline
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Question Boost Spring Install Question

Ok, I thought it would be an easy spring swap but it's giving me a hard time. How do you guys get to that one bolt on the inside. I can get all of the 10mm ones except one. So I thought I'd remove the 3 - 13mm, but again I can get all of them except that one. Any ideas? How did you guys do it or can it only be done off the car?
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Old 06-15-2007, 01:44 PM
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I'd like to know the answer to this question too....
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Port matched, SC cams, K27/K29 turbo, Roush Performance custom headers w/Tial MV-S dual wastegates, Rarlyl8 muffler, LWFW, GT2 clutch & PP, BL wur, factory RS shifter, RS mounts, FVD timing mod, Big Reds, - 210 lb
Old 06-15-2007, 03:19 PM
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You will find it much easier to remove the WG. That spring is under a considerable amount of pressure. It should ideally be done with two people. One holding the WG together while clamped in a vice (soft jaws) while the other undoes all the nuts and keep firm pressure on it and release it slowly. if you undo the nuts without pressure on it, it will fly apart and could injure you if it hits you in face etc.
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Old 06-15-2007, 04:20 PM
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Project is done now and all put back together. Is there a way to tell the difference between .6 and a .8 boost spring? I'm still only getting .6 on my gauge. It does feel quicker but it may be just in my head.

The top did come off pretty quickly but I managed to hang on to it enough so it didn't go flying.
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Old 06-15-2007, 05:12 PM
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Here's how I did it on the car:
Jack up the DS and support it. I didn't have to remove the rear wheel but I'm sure it would have given more room to work.

Remove the lines (17mm) going into the wastegate. Don't lose the washers.

Remove the three 13mm nuts that hold the top of the wastegate on. The two nuts are easily accesible, but the third one is hard to get at. Use this tool on the inner side by the Valve cover and use the open end. Once it's loose you can use the closed ratchet end to remove it the rest of the way.


Next remove the 6 10mm nuts and hang on to the top cause it'll go flyin' if you don't. All 6 are accessible by rotating the top part around so getting at all the nuts are easy.

Once it's apart inspect the inside diaphram. Mine looked new still.

When you are ready to put it back together it's not the easiest. I couldn't push down enough to get the threads through the holes to get the nuts started. So I built this thing. I put one bar across the top of the wastegate and put the other bar across the muffler pipes. Ran the nuts down compressing the spring and guiding the threads through the holes. Also, it moved slow and even to prevent pinching the diaphram.


Then tighten down all 6 10mm nuts.

Tighten down all 3 13mm nuts.

Hook up the 17mm lines and you're done.

Hope this helps someone in the future...
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Old 06-15-2007, 05:17 PM
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I bought two of these clamps from Home D. and they worked great. You can squeeze the clamps closed drawing the WG top right in place to install the 6MM nuts. The interesting thing is I had to do it on the car because I couldnt get my WG off without destroying it. A stud had been welded to the exhaust manifold.




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Old 06-18-2007, 06:03 AM
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