I am dealing with similar issues. I am running so rich I cant get an afr under boost above 11 all the way until the turbo pooches out. I am about to yank the wur and send it to BL I am going to try to tune it without the RPM solenoid if possible. then go from there.

EricBritton

I am planning some changes to my engine soon that will require going into the WUR. I'll post the modifications when I can get some pictures to go with it.
Like I said previously most folks probably don't want to mess with cracking the WUR open. That makes the RPM switch a decent solution if the manual adjustments aren't good enough to move the threshold where in needs to be.

FWIW, I'd question the 1.35 *reading* - is the reading accurate?
What does the boost gauge indicate?

I guess it could also be assumed that the overboost protection switch has been disabled if that is indeed the boost you are producing.

Craig,
The only boost gauge I have in the car at the moment is the vdo in tach style, which are well know for their undeniable accuracy, but whilst viewing this gauge, under boost the needle arcs swiftly right, flashes past the 1.0bar mark, and burries itself at "HOLY ****!!!" :D

I am climbing under the car tomorrow and will check out the wastegate. Any hints? Should I just remove it entirely, to check actuation?

...so you *are*possibly at 1.35 bar. She-it, man.
With the AFRs you've shown, I'd hate to see your rings and ring lands. ClINk cLinK^!@

Actually - those AFRs aren't so bad for a motor running that boost level - you may still have a physically healthy engine. For now. Time to do it right -

I completely agree! I'm climbing under right now! I'll keep you posted!

Only 4 little 12mm nuts hold the wastegate on. It would be a good idea to remove it and carefully and slowly give it some air pressure and see if the valve opens.
It should retract or move inwards off it's seat.

You can use a blow gun, but don't hold it tight against the hole - put it next to the hole and slowly close your fingers around it while letting air escape all around so you don't over pressure it and rip the diaphram.

An air pressure regulator turned way down is a good idea if you have one. You only need around 15-16psi to open the valve with a 1 bar spring in there.

If it doesn't open you know the diaphram is toast.
The valve guide lasts a very long time but eventually wears out too.

Alright, here are the findings upon inspection:
Line from the top (red arrow) of the WG goes to the inter cooler.
Line from the side (yellow arrow) of the WG goes into the engine compartment and terminates to atomospher.
Is this proper?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207076606.jpg

Is the next step to pull the WG and check for a sticky valve?

Pulled the WG and started disassembly. I found some cuts in the diaphragm... could these indeed be the source of my overboost problem???

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207082575.jpg

Could be - I don't know for certain.
Since you have invested a large amount of money (and probably time and effort) I'd purchse the Tial WG.
Parts for the factory WG are virtually nonexistent -

Now, from the FWIW dept -
When I changed to the Tial the actual boost was exactly .1 bar over the spring rate, whereas the factory was exactly on - to the .05. SO with a .8 bar spring and the same B&B headers I am at .9 bar with a .8 bar spring.

Tested it with the factory test gauge on the highway- gauge is big as a wall clock ;-)

Tial F46 should be on the way today. I went with the 0.7bar spring per Jake @ Tial, and Brian Leasks recommendation.
Official word from Tial is that their F46 WG + GHL headers = 0.2bar over spring rate...
Now if I can just find a gauge as big as a wall clock! ;-)

Tial F46 should be on the way today. I went with the 0.7bar spring per Jake @ Tial, and Brian Leasks recommendation.
Official word from Tial is that their F46 WG + GHL headers = 0.2bar over spring rate...
Now if I can just find a gauge as big as a wall clock! ;-)

I hope thats not how the lines on the wastegate were hooked up.
That is opposite of how they should be.
The bottom banjo fitting at the bottom, or yellow arrow is the boost pressure line from the intercooler and the top one is vented to atmosphere.

If your was hooked up as you listed them than you are actually pressurizing your wastegate to stay closed under boost.
You want the boost pressure to lift the valve off it's seat to let some exhaust pressure escape.

I bet your car was fast!

Nope. The other way around. Top of bell is vented, bottom is connected to intercooler.

If this is the way it was connected, I'm not surprized you boosted 1.35 bar :eek: You deadheaded the turbo and K-Jet just happend to be able to cope.

Now it's time to collect all those piston ring pieces... :(

Heh heh! Yep scratch that red means yellow and yellow means red! I was trying woman speak!

Brian, are you saying there are things that can be done inside a WUR that the Brian Leask mod cannot alter?

No, what I am saying is the RPM switch is a good bandaid but does not actually fix the problem, it masks the symptoms.

The problem is that as the WUR ages it goes off spec. In order to recalibrate you need to go inside the WUR and do some adjusting. Once back in spec you re-gain the full spectrum of the threshold adjustment.
The RPM switch simply delays the onset of boost by hiding the signal until a preset RPM, effectively overriding the threshold system by shifting the threshold to a point requiring less adjustment. The resulting A/F graph looks better but the WUR is still off spec.

?

The stock WUR isn't adjustable to the common man.
Brian Leask's device makes it so much easier, and adds different parameters accessible from the outside.