Ruf Intercooler Install help needed
 

Hirevtuner posted this nice writeup in another thread (the infamous Andial effigy):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/4226417-post38.html

After a full year of being up on blocks, I finally have my '79 930 up and running on Rebel Racing's RSR coilover conversion, rear monoballs, Elephant polybronze's and other suspension bits (yes, I installed the Weltmeister front swaybar). Now, the next step is installing the Ruf IC that the previous owner included in the sale of my car.

I claim ignorance, as well as inexperience, but not an unwillingness to try this myself, so I was wondering if Hirevtuner, Craig or anyone else that has done this can share specific sources and part numbers (if applicable) to assemble all the needed pieces to complete this project. Additional tips would be appreciated too. I thank you all, and this forum. What a great resource! Happy Thanksgiving!

Shoot a pic of the RUF IC -

pics:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...b/IMG_3558.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...b/IMG_3550.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...b/IMG_3553.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...b/IMG_3554.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...b/IMG_3555.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...b/IMG_3557.jpg



I could use help on identifying all the smaller outlet/inlet tubes, how relevant that one partially crushed one is, and any other details that might help. Thanks!

Vic,
You are just this side of Baltimore, I am in Haymarket, VA. I'll come up and help you or at least watch.

Do you have the stock turbo? And does your 90 deg. rubber pipe from the MAF have the provision for the blow off valve?

Let me know,
Mark

Review the link below:
http://members.rennlist.org/magisterc/kokeln.html

The two "tubes" connect to the recirc valve which attaches to the new rubber elbow and to the Auxillary air valve (AAV). Shouldn't matter which orientation.

You will also need a piece of aluminum tube 5" long that is 3" at one end and 2 3/4 " at the other for connecting the new rubber elbow with the stock intake tube. I used a piece of 3" aluminum tube with a 3" to 2 3/4 silicon reducer on my C2 intercooler install.

I would attempt to fix the partially crushed tube. A steel rod and hammer lightly tapping should allow you to work that out.

Hope this helps,

JP

Mark- I bought this 930 from a guy in Marshall, VA, just down Rt. 66 from you. When I think I'll get to this I'll contact you.

JP- Thanks, I didn't even think to search Rennlist, very helpful. So I am looking at that rubber elbow, available here on Pelican by special order, and the upgraded billet aluminum BOV, also on Pelican? And your mention of the 5" reducing tube, you're not talking about the Ruf silver tube in my last picture, are you? Or does the new rubber elbow I have to get not simply fit in the original elbow's space? Where would I get a silicone reducer like you mentioned?

The RUF tube in your picture replaces the factory boost tube which connects your turbo to the intercooler. The 5" piece of aluminum tubing replaces the factory diverter assembly which occupies the space between the factory elbow and the air intake pipe which attaches to the turbo compressor. You can do as I did and purchase a silicon reducer ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__3-0-to-2-75-Silicone-silicon-reducer-coupler-black_W0QQitemZ310102944232QQadiZ2865QQadnZCarQ20Q 26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewIt emQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=ite m310102944232&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3 A543%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 ) OR go the Sandman route wherein you get a muffler shop to expand the end of a 2.75 inch pipe to 3".

This is sandmans thread : http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=366674&highlight=intercooler+sand man

If you review it in conjunction with the above it should all make sense. Let us know if you have any other questions.

JP

Hello vmb,

I am doing the same currently, maybe I am 2 steps more close to the final.
If the pictures show all your hardware, for sure you need some more stuff.

1: The rubber fittings from your OE intercooler with the small metall tube inside,
I guess you have them.
2: 2 spacer tubes, approx 100mm long, I can measure later for you.
3: 1 stud M8 approx 120mm, you can get in any hardware shop.
4: connection sheet to fix your RUF iC inlet on the IC, nothing special.
5: barn door outlet to turbo inlet tube... here you can go different routes.
I would use the 930 rubber bow, a aluminium reducer pipe with welded
on fitting for bypass valve.
2nd choice, buy the 965 rubber bow which has the bypass connection and
use a aluminium reducer pipe.

I can offer to build the 2 spacers and the aluminium reducer pipe for you,
I need to build 1 set for me anyway, all on self costs + shipping.
Only I cant do this fast, I may need time for this.

Or I can send you the drawings when they are ready.

*+ the angled fixing which screws on the coil support, check this carefully.
mine was not fitting and I needed to cut it and reweld it.

Falk

Falk-

that's very generous of you! But I actually think I'll take away more satisfaction if I do at least a little work myself ;)

What are the 2 additional spacers that others have not seemed to mention? What is the "connection sheet" that you mention? And lastly, why does it seem like I need a new BOV, and in a new location? ie, how come I can't just take the stock IC off and put on the Ruf- why the new elbow and BOV? (shameful admittance of ignorance: I searched the parts diagrams and manual, and cannot find where the stock BOV is, if there is one at all?)

Hello,

one big difference between the Porsche and the Ruf IC is, the RUF is a so called "longneck" IC.
That means you need to remove your bypass housing.
On first view maybe you dont want to touch it, but its not that big deal.
The bypass/BOV housing is located under your original IC, above the throttle body.

When I say spacer, its only because I don`t know a better english word,
its a thickwall tube, approx 100mm long, maybe its a distancer.

After removing that housing, you will have the right "spacer" left.
Mine was slightly to long for the RUF IC and I don`t wanted to cut it.
For the left side, you need another "spacer" slightly shorter then the right one
and the 8mm studd. I can measure these "spacers" later for you.

"Connection sheet" is a sheet of metall with 2 holes.
On your IC and on your IC inlet tube you will find 2 metric holes or studs.
The sheet is used to secure the inlet on the IC.

Regarding the BOV, RUF simply not used one. I would recomment to install one,
a 965 one or a good aftermarket like Forge or Tial.
Connect it between turbo inlet and one of your RUF IC side connections.

*remember to "ground" the RUF IC!! The overboost switch is screwed in there,
at least at mine. Without ground for the switch, your car won`t start.

Falk

Vic,
the "spacers" being referred to are part of the actual hardware which fastens the intercooler down. I neglected to mention these as my installation of the C2 intercooler entailed different mounting options. The "connection sheet" referred to is the mechanical means of fastening the intercooler to the boost tube so that under boost they do not come apart resulting in an intake leak. When looking at the intercooler you will notice a stud protruding right above the point where the boost tube attaches. On the boost tube you will notice a threaded boss. When attached together - inline - the "connection sheet" with the two holes attaches these together. One hole over the stud then fastened with a nut, the other over the threaded boss with a bolt and washer securing same.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227901330.jpg


In the photo above you can see where the intercooler is fastened to an aluminum "tube". This is one of the "spacers" being referred to.

JP

I finally think I get it now! I'm sure it would have made more sense once I got in there and started taking things apart, but I was hoping to obtain all parts before disassembling anything (that's how I got into trouble last time, taking off my suspension on a whim, then a whole year passes by before being able to drive again. No one else here has done that, right? ;) ).

borrowing this pic from Hirevtuner's thread, am I understanding correctly that the elbow and large casting is removed and not reused? Hence the need for the two spacers? Before this epiphany I thought everyone was simply just replacing the rubber elbow. But the boost sensor in the upper left is remounted on the new IC? (where, how?) Is that circular fitting in the lower left w/ the 3 hoses the old BOV? Where does the idle air control valve get remounted? Or does that get tossed too? Thanks again.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1223490856.jpg

The 90* elbow you remove is different than the one you need from a later model car.

A few more thoughts:

1- you might see if you can get from Kolken IC, their cast aluminum reducer pipe that makes the transition. You can always grind off their name or turn it upside down.

2- in addition to the aluminum tubing (for spacing) you might want to get some threaded rod to replace what you have with slightly longer pieces.

3- get new rubber isolators (6) and anti-squash tubes (3) that fit in them to mount the IC.

4- not sure what it called, but if your car is de-smogged, remove the aluminum fitting on the intake manifold that has two hose fittings. This part is located under the old BOV. At a minimum, you'll need to cap off the ends I think.

It's really not that hard to do once you get into it. Good luck!

Both the elbow and casting are removed. You are only going to re-use the overboost switch and the boost sending gauge. If you have a mechanical boost gauge (which is a must, you can delete the sending unit).

The BOV is the entire cast assembly you remove.

That's because Blow Off Valve is ricer talk, and only ricers run them for the Fast'n'Hilarious "whoosh" noises they make.. They're not a good idea, they trash the AFR's by dumping metered air out of the system.

Porsches use a recirculation valve instead. Which performs a similar purpose, but doesn't dump the air to atmosphere but allows it back into the turbo intake instead - e.g. recirculated.

That entire 9 pound casting is the factory recirculation valve. With the new 965 rubber elbow you'll be running, you use the later type 965 recirculation valve as well. (Which together weigh almost 8 oz or so...)

However, the stock Bosch plastic valve is notorious for leaking boost after only a few months. I held one in my hand for about 3 minutes when I unpacked my Kokelyn and went right back into the house and ordered a rebuildable billet replacement from Forge Motorsports for about double what that piece of plastic junk costs...

Interestingly enough, the SEAT turbo and the 930 used the same Bosch valve.

Picture of new elbow with BOV
 

Example of mine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1228146498.jpg

I'm in Severn a whole 15 minutes away. One thing though, just had a tendon replaced in my hand. So unfortunately no wrench turning for me for a while. But I was thinking of the same I/C upgrade, and if you don't mind an audience...... :rolleyes:

JP - what type of intake is this?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227901330.jpg

sure! but FYI it's crazy busy time now, and I probably won't be getting to this until spring. I'll contact you and lucittm when I'm ready to get the fingernails dirty again.......

Bypass valve used on CIS should not vent to atmosphere:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1228146498.jpg