Twin Turbo Conversion Pics

[JMA-RUF]

Troops, as promised, here are some cell-phone snaps of my twin turbo conversion. Excuse the poor quality

High-flow scavenge pump:


Left K16/16G:


Right K16/16G:


Inside of the left fender:


I'm in the process of installing the intercooler, so when that's done, I'll post up the snaps

[mppickett]

Cool work, James! Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

[JMA-RUF]

Thanks, Mike. All I can say is that I NEED A NEW BACK!

I'm doing all of this with the engine in place, so a majority of my time has been spent under the car.

I just want to get it running ASAP, and then deal with the minor cosmetic aesthetics once it's all running properly

[BARknucklehead]

Which scavenge pump did you use?

[JMA-RUF]

Not sure what brand it is, but it had higher flow rates than the TurboWerx pump, or the Tilton's. It's especially designed for scavenging oil from two turbo's.

Specs.

-Contains Bronze gears, brass pump body with stainless steel shaft and ball raced motor.

(This pump does NOT use rubber impellers that will disintegrate with hot oil or fuel)


-Self priming up to 5 feet vertically, with the capability to pump over 20 feet.

-3.7 GPM (222GPH) scavenging capacity makes it easy to scavenge oil from one or two turbos

-It weighs less than 1.4 kg, and includes vibration reducing mounting hardware.

-12 volts and runs at 5 amps.

-Pump inlet and outlet fittings are standard 3/8" NPT. Also suitable for other fluids, such as engine coolant, alcohol, and water.

-The pump is supplied with strainer, tails, rubber grommet mounts and splash proof terminal cover.

See it here! It's a solid and durable piece. Only time will tell how reliable it is.

[BARknucklehead]

Interesting - How high do you have to mount the turbo to avoid using a scavenge pump?

[JMA-RUF]

Originally Posted by BARknucklehead

Interesting - How high do you have to mount the turbo to avoid using a scavenge pump?

Higher than the point in the engine that you wish to drain into... as long as it's a negative gradient / slope.

Actually, I could have drained both turbo's where the oil drain sump plug is, via a T-piece, however, the heater tube off the left heat exchanger limits the space in that spot, so it would have been very tight.

Had I not had heater boxes around the OEM headers, I could have gone down that route. That's the point where I drained the oil into for my single turbo setup and it worked flawlessly

[juicersr]

Great work! Cant wait to see more pix.

Did you have any reservations about using the electric scavenge pump? Are they pretty bulletproof? In the worse case scenario that it fails, can u still get a mediocum of flow to relieve back pressure on the turbos?

[JMA-RUF]

Originally Posted by juicersr

Great work! Cant wait to see more pix.

Did you have any reservations about using the electric scavenge pump? Are they pretty bulletproof? In the worse case scenario that it fails, can u still get a mediocum of flow to relieve back pressure on the turbos?

I did have reservations at first, but after talking to a few people who have used similar pumps, they are quite durable and reliable. It's a temporary solution for now as I'm trying to source a lower profile, -10AN "T" piece so I can go straight from the turbo's into the oil sump drain port. That'll negate the need for any electric pump, and would be more of a permanent solution.

[BARknucklehead]

Originally Posted by JMA-RUF

Higher than the point in the engine that you wish to drain into... as long as it's a negative gradient / slope.

Actually, I could have drained both turbo's where the oil drain sump plug is, via a T-piece, however, the heater tube off the left heat exchanger limits the space in that spot, so it would have been very tight.

Had I not had heater boxes around the OEM headers, I could have gone down that route. That's the point where I drained the oil into for my single turbo setup and it worked flawlessly

Interesting - why did the factory use a cam driven scavenge pump then...space?

[JMA-RUF]

Pehaps space, but maybe also insurance. Scavenging will only fail if the engine siezes, at which point, there's no impact on the turbo's. With the electric pump, if that fails, then oil will get backed up into the turbo's and it will seep past the seals and cause smoking.

[911st]

I know you are set but I was just wondering:

It seems the turbo center section bearing is well above the bottom of the valve covers. Dose the supply have to be perfectly at the top?

Would it be possible to just rotate the center section say 45 deg and drain the turbos directly into the lower valve covers? Not sure if the factory turbos would fit this way but if not aftermarket ones might.

Great project?

[JMA-RUF]

Originally Posted by 911st

I know you are set but I was just wondering:

It seems the turbo center section bearing is well above the bottom of the valve covers. Dose the supply have to be perfectly at the top?

Would it be possible to just rotate the center section say 45 deg and drain the turbos directly into the lower valve covers? Not sure if the factory turbos would fit this way but if not aftermarket ones might.

Great project?

I considered draining into the lower valve covers, but with the OEM 93TT heat exchangers, the turbo's sit too low still... I would have had to have the heat exchangers cut and the collector to the turbo extended up higher to make that work. Easier to just use a scavenge pump for now, until I sort out the drain to the oil sump drain port on the engine case.

I may just have to use a hammer and knock in a small dent the heater pipe a little to make room for a "T" piece

[JBL930]

Looking good James, well impressed you're doing it yourself, keep the pics coming please

[JMA-RUF]

Originally Posted by JBL930

Looking good James, well impressed you're doing it yourself, keep the pics coming please

Thanks, I'm really surprised I've been able to do it myself too!

It's not rocket science to be honest... just takes time, patience and a huge Chiropractor bill

[RarlyL8]

There is a hidden advantage to building a turbo system in-situ; ergonomics. Everything I build is with working on it in the car in mind. Later on you will be VERY glad you did it this way. No impossible nuts to reach on the wrong side of the clamp, ha!

[JMA-RUF]

Very VERY true, Brian. Everything is accessible for relatively easy R&R

Problem I'm having right now is finding someone locally to weld up my stainless steel mandrel elbows, for my centre exit exhaust system. Some crooks just quoted me $1,100 in labour alone, just to weld the bits toegther! WTF??? Talk about Porsche-car tax!

[BARknucklehead]

Originally Posted by JMA-RUF

Very VERY true, Brian. Everything is accessible for relatively easy R&R

Problem I'm having right now is finding someone locally to weld up my stainless steel mandrel elbows, for my centre exit exhaust system. Some crooks just quoted me $1,100 in labour alone, just to weld the bits toegther! WTF??? Talk about Porsche-car tax!

Crook? You are way too kind. Any fab shop with an ounce of integrity would do it for a tenth that price. For $1100, you could buy a full (used) square wave TIG kit and do it yourself (I did this). WTF???

[JMA-RUF]

Originally Posted by BARknucklehead

Crook? You are way too kind. Any fab shop with an ounce of integrity would do it for a tenth that price. For $1100, you could buy a full (used) square wave TIG kit and do it yourself (I did this). WTF???

Exactly! They sell full Subaru exhaust systems for $$750, and they quote $1100 JUST to wled a few mandrel bends for me!!!! FKN CROOKS!

[copbait73]

Originally Posted by 911st

I know you are set but I was just wondering:

It seems the turbo center section bearing is well above the bottom of the valve covers. Dose the supply have to be perfectly at the top?

Would it be possible to just rotate the center section say 45 deg and drain the turbos directly into the lower valve covers? Not sure if the factory turbos would fit this way but if not aftermarket ones might.

Great project?

Most turbo bearing housings need to be within 20 degrees of vertical however 30 degrees can usually get by for the street. Naturally, drain orientation becomes more of a concern on a tracked car than street driven.
Most problems come from a drain being too small or being routed with a fluid blockage that prevents proper venting.