Pauter rods

crb07 · crb07's Garage

Any opinions/experience with Pauter rods in 400+ hp turbo motors?

juan ruiz · juan ruiz's Garage

that's what I have so far so good 675rwhp

David · David's Garage

I have them in my engine. As an engineer, I think the design is flawed but I couldn't find anyone who's seen or heard of one broken. I've seen one bent to a 90° angle, but not broken.

kenikh · 08-05-2009, 05:14 AM

I agree with 125shifter. These are WWII technology - they work but are technically inferior to rods like R&R from LN Engineering.. If you can get a good used set cheap, by all means they work well. New, I'd get something with a modern design, since they all cost the same.

Craig 930 RS · 08-05-2009, 07:10 AM

Stay with the stock rod (with modified bushings etc of course) unless you enjoy the thought of the sexy look where you can't see it.

Why waste the money.

kenikh · 08-05-2009, 07:35 AM

Unless you plan on really revving it, staying stock w/ ARP bolts is a good idea.

JFairman · 08-05-2009, 10:28 AM

I think Pauter rods clear the oil pump better than Carillo rods in a stroked motor. Some people grind a little metal off part of the oil pump housing to make clearance.

David · David's Garage

In case anyone's curious: 6 Pauter rods weigh almost exactly the same as 5 stock rods.

Flieger · Flieger's Garage

I am just a curious lurker, but what is the design inferiority in Pauter rods? Are stock better?

kenikh · 08-05-2009, 12:58 PM

Modern rods are H-Beam/I-Beam designs:

Pauter rods use a main beam design:

This design is inferior from a finite element analysis perspective.

David · David's Garage

The lowest stress on a beam is at the center and that's where a Pauter rod as the most material.

crb07 · crb07's Garage

How much better are the Pauter than stock?
Would you be comfortable with Pauter rods at 1 bar with a K27, 964 cams, JE pistons, in a 3.4? Hope this is enough info and not to many variables?

Flieger · Flieger's Garage

Thanks, the photos make it clear.

David · David's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by crb07

How much better are the Pauter than stock?
Would you be comfortable with Pauter rods at 1 bar with a K27, 964 cams, JE pistons, in a 3.4? Hope this is enough info and not to many variables?

Stock rods are good enough for that. That's pretty much my set up, but I started spending stupid money and Pauter rods made the list. I was figuring that I'd go twin turbo eventually and I didn't want to rebuild the engine for the added power.

WinRice · 08-05-2009, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 125shifter

The lowest stress on a beam is at the center and that's where a Pauter rod as the most material.

From an engineering standpoint, the Pauters are probably fine for a high RPM, low horsepower motor where most of the stress is tension. For a high output turbo motor, you need a good 'I' or 'H' section rod to endure the higher compressive stresses.

My 2 cents

voitureltd · 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 125shifter

Stock rods are good enough for that. That's pretty much my set up, but I started spending stupid money and Pauter rods made the list. I was figuring that I'd go twin turbo eventually and I didn't want to rebuild the engine for the added power.

Your right, it is a good idea to go to better rods if you plan on geting lots of HP. The factory did it, even got into titaniam with the high hp motors as they developed. I just put one back together with Carillo after the original builder went with stock rods and ARP bolts. It bent one at around 500RWHP on a consertive dyno which intern ruined the crank,block, and contaminated the entire oil system and wrecked the new GT 3 oil pump, turbo sump pump etc etc on and on ( almost $15K later ) all that for not spending for a set of good rods ( and while you are in there pistons), after all the factory was not satisfied with stock rods ( & pistons) way back in the 70s and there are lots of better choices out there now.

DonE · 08-05-2009, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 125shifter

Stock rods are good enough for that. That's pretty much my set up, but I started spending stupid money and Pauter rods made the list. I was figuring that I'd go twin turbo eventually and I didn't want to rebuild the engine for the added power.

I use stock rods and ARP hardware with no problems. They even survived some big detonation without any deviation. My motor is 525rwhp and 6800 rpm. Maybe if I twin turbo it, I'll consider new rods.

voitureltd · 05:46 PM

The dyno sheet showed they shut it down at around 5000 RPM. It was being dyno tuned with just a few hours on the Twin turbo build. Very expensive ultimate build ( 4 year project ) but they started out not wanting to spend to much but his business got good so the later part of the build got lots of good parts.They forgot that they did not spend that much at the beginning so it went boom. Now it is a even build so hope it stays together this time.

TimT · 09:56 PM

Quote:

Any opinions/experience with Pauter rods in 400+ hp turbo motors?

Yes years of using Pauter rods in 400+ hp motors...And ZERO failures that can be considered caused by a connecting rod issue...

We rebuilt our GT3RS engine ( I know not a turbo but..) two years ago and used Pauters because we could not get a good replacement set of Pankl Ti rods... PMNA sent us a few sets and we wouldn't use any of them i.e. one set was 6 Ti rods in a plastic bag... all banging together during shipment..

Bills 935 clone shifts at 9000 rpm regularly, produces well over... actually wheel slip on the dyno starts at 675 hp... and the graphs are rising steeply.. Pauter rods in that engine...

I can't count how many engines we have built that have Pauter rods... lots... and ZERO problems with the rods..

Stopped using Carillo years ago not because of quality issues, but rather customer service issues...

I do have a new engine build in the works for my personal racecar and I am trying to build the engine with products services found here.. i.e. Bens new headers... LN rods, Cgarr case prep etc..