Hose damaged help please

Jesper · 09-27-2009, 09:34 AM

I just saw this hose is damaged. What does that mean, is that why my Turbo boost gauge dosent work?

Thanks.

mark houghton · 09-27-2009, 09:48 AM

Nope, that hose has nothing to do with your turbo boost gauge (I think it's part of the air pump/ injection system). In your second picture, note the orange covered electrical sender...that should be what drives your boost gauge.

spuggy · 09-27-2009, 10:33 AM

Try disconnecting the boost sender at the gauge:

If the boost gauge pegs, the gauge is working and you get to troubleshoot the cable to the sender - reconnect at the gauge and disconnect at the sender and it should still peg.

If the boost gauge doesn't peg when disconnected, then it doesn't work. You can either fix it or replace with a working instrument.

If the boost gauge pegs when disconnected but doesn't read boost when connected, then the sender is suspect (as a broken/disconnected wire should make it peg).

Jesper · 09-27-2009, 11:56 AM

Thanks friends, spuggy, disconnecting the wires, is that with the motor running or just ignition on?

The hose to the airpump. What is the airpump for? I have not thermal reactors, but SSI heaters.

Best regards
Jesper

lucittm · lucittm's Garage

Jesper,
The air pump sends filtered air from a pump driven off the cam (cyl 123). This air is routed to the exhaust ports to increase the opportunity for unburnt fuel to completely burn before it exits the muffler. There is another path for the air to enter the catalytic converter when the engine is cold for the same purpose.

Most folks on the forum agree that the Secondary Air Injector system is of questionable value and remove it to save a bit of weight. Our sponsor sells cylinder head plugs (P/N PEL-BRC-02) for this purpose, although you may find them hard to install without removing the headers first. I have removed mine and I was happy with the results.

I know this system was required for USA cars. Not sure for ROW. If you do not have a smog inspection, you can remove everything connected to your broken hose.

Thanks,
Mark

spuggy · 09-27-2009, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jesper

Thanks friends, spuggy, disconnecting the wires, is that with the motor running or just ignition on?

Just power to the gauge(s). Ignition in the first position works for me.

spuggy · 09-27-2009, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lucittm

I know this system was required for USA cars. Not sure for ROW.

PET shows air injection for a '78 RoW SC, but not 930/60 or 930/66, AFAICS.

You might want to add your car to your signature.

Quote:

If you do not have a smog inspection, you can remove everything connected to your broken hose.

Or even if you do have a smog inspection you could maybe still remove it, depending on whether there's a visual, or whether they just care about how clean the car is running, rather than whether it still has all standard equipment fitted.

RarlyL8 · RarlyL8's Garage

That's a very clean looking 3.0L 930 engine. You might inpect the entire air injection system if you wish to keep it intact.

Jesper · 09-28-2009, 07:37 AM

Hi Guys

Thanks for all your help, you are such valuable for this forum. I don’t know if I will remove the air pump, do I have to pull out the motor for removing the pump and the hoses? In Denmark we do not have and smog test or as the matter fact we do, but the emission for these cars is rather high, so that is not a problem.

I just had the car Dyno tested, +300 Bhp and 369 Nm

Best regards
Jesper

gogomobil · 09-29-2009, 01:10 AM

very clean looking machine and a nice Road Show Pinball machine in the corner!

I thought about ditching the airpump a while back but never did it. The pump is quite heavy!
You can remove just the pump and a few valves and hoses from the top. Under the car there is a "spider" connected to the pump which feeds air into the engine. If you remove the spider you will have to plug the holes.

lucittm · lucittm's Garage

Jesper,
Can you describe the process you used to make your fan look so good? Also, is that an oil pressure gauge mounted above the AC compressor? It seems like a good place to sense the oil pressure - the end of the line.

Thanks,
Mark

JFairman · 09-29-2009, 06:34 AM

Thats the first time I've noticed the rear windsheild wiper motor mounted way out at the outer edge of the rear deck lid on an early 930.

Have you hit your head on that thing while working on the car yet?

I'm glad they remounted it more out of the way down by the hinge on the later cars.

Jesper · 10-03-2009, 10:12 AM

Hi Guys

Sorry for me late answer, I've been working my ass off these past days.

[gogomobil]: yeah I just love my Roadshow, awesome pinball, that you can play for hours and hours ;-) Thanks, I'll remove the air pump and plug the hoses.

[lucittm]: I use this polish Autosol Metal Polish CMS International

Its very easy to use, and will not damage the fan blades. I didn't remove the fan, but I think it's much essayer to polish if removed. Thats right, I was worried of my low oil pressure, and installed an extra pressure gauge in the engine compartment, directly from the engine. This manometer measures BAR instead of PSI, and it's a fluid gauge, it's filled with glycerin. My oil pressure is approx. 1000 rpm=1 Bar, 2000=2 Bar, 3000=3 Bar and so on. You can change the oil line restictors, for higher oil pressure.

[JFairman]: After hiding your head 2 or 3 times you will learn that the wiper motor is sitting there!!

Best regards
Jesper