cam timing for the stock 3.3 cams

[s5uewf]

I have my engine out while I swap the clutch and rebuild the LSD. I'm adjusting the valves and fixing a broken stud on the wastegate mount while it is out. Also removing the air injection and saving it/preseving it in case it is needed in the future.

I have a question on the cam timing. Since the engine is out, is it worthwhile to adjust the stock cam timing forward or backward to alter performance? Would it make any difference with the stock cams? Any advice as to whether it would be best to adjust it to increase lower end vs top end (I have a K27S from RarlyL8 in the configuration)?

If I had a goal, it would be for good voerall daily driveability, but wanting to take advantage of the boost curve and maximize that to the extent possible. But, overall I drive this on the street and just want it to be enjoyable, torquey, and fun.

[lucittm]

Emery,
If your car ran well when you dropped the engine I would leave the cam timing where it is. Why?
1. You need some specialized tools to do it correctly.
2. Cam timing may be optimized for your driving preferences already.
3. You will need at least two additional gaskets, two additional seals, and four crush washers.

However, if you are just curious or want to try something different, I would pull the covers and make an initial measurement. It will cost you $12 in parts to find out. If it is close to stock, I would leave it there. Stock is good. A little too much deviation either way and you quickly arrive at a place that you do not want to visit.

Mark

[cole930]

Emery,

I don't know what all your plans or expectations for your car are but would suggest a change to SC cams if your looking for a good street performance mod.
that still maintains great drivability. Brian would also be a good reference on this.


Cole

[s5uewf]

Thanks guys. Yes, I figure the SC cam option is the way to go. I cannot afford to do that right now, so was curious if anyone had fooled around with just the stock cam to move the curve one way or the other.

I think I'll take you advice and leave it alone for now. It was running well when I took it out so should be even better once back in with new clutch.

I got the air system off today. Snapped some exhaust studs in the process, so now need to drill them out and replace - grrrrr! At least all the air jets came out intact and the exhaust ports all look pretty nice (no oily carbon - mostly whitish or gray).

[lucittm]

Emery,
Do yourself a favor and call ARP tomorrow 800-826-3045. If you have the thick flange headers like I do you need P/N 400-8015 and 400-8005 those are 8-pack and 4-packs of the appropriate studs, washers, and nuts for our headers. They are made of high-temp stainless and will never rust or break in normal use.

Mark

[A930Rocket]

Somebody here made up a kit that centers on the exhaust port to drill out the broken stud and either Pelican or someone else sells it.

Good luck!

[DonE]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

Somebody here made up a kit that centers on the exhaust port to drill out the broken stud and either Pelican or someone else sells it.

Good luck!

Whatever the cost of this part, it's worth it.

[DonE]

Don't bother trying to adjust the timing of a stock cam. If you want performance, go with 964 cams that you can adjust (retard for top end, advance for city/low end). If the motor is out, the swap is easier and its an upgrade you can really feel. IMO, this is your best dollar for dollar upgrade and one you can build on later.

[WERK I]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

Somebody here made up a kit that centers on the exhaust port to drill out the broken stud and either Pelican or someone else sells it.

Good luck!

Yeah, Stomski has built a kit for drilling out the exhaust studs. The kit includes a number of templates to support different port sizes of the 911 engine. I think there was a brief writeup in one of the Pano magazines. The reviewer raved about the accuracy of the templates and the ease of tool.