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Alan L's Avatar
 
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removing engine

I need to drop my 930 engine, to do some work on a couple of heads/cylinders.
The trans is fine.
My Q is whether there is any great saving in trying to remove the engine and leave trans in place. Never done it this way before. I have found it necessary to relieve the pressure on pressure plate diaphragm before splitting trans out - never worked out why for this bit. Also, assembling the fork back in place could be a trick.
Am I saving, or buying more trouble leaving the trans in.
Alan

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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 06-19-2011, 03:49 PM
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i think it's easier to pull everything together.
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87 carmine red 930 | 57k | B6 modified IC | GHL headers | custom exhaust | VEMS EFI | carrera intake w/ flipped TB | LS2 coils | EBC | K27-7200 (soon to be replaced by GTX3071
Old 06-19-2011, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fletcher0780 View Post
i think it's easier to pull everything together.
+1



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Old 06-19-2011, 04:41 PM
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Do it all together.
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John- 78 Slick Top 930

"Illegitimi non carborundum"
Old 06-19-2011, 07:01 PM
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I pulled it all as one unit by myself the first time ever in 4 hours. I think it would be much tougher to try to separate it in the car.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:08 PM
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I've always pulled them as a complete unit. And of course if you want to work on both bits - simple.
But I have also seen pics where guys have left the trans behind in the body. Obviously you save on gear linkage/CVJ/speedo and maybe one or two other bits I cant recall. The trade off would be splitting the unit underneath the car, which I thought would be as time consuming as pulling the other bits off. But then I wonder why they do it that way.
+1 on the ATV trolley. Streets ahead of my 2T trolley jack. Had one fall off that once - damaged an oil cooler tube.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 06-19-2011, 07:23 PM
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One more tip if you are going to use a tav Jack. Still use some plywood and I would recommend an aluminum one. Much lighter and easier to move and store. It's light enough to hang by the axle. Harbor freight has them for a decent prices when they are on sale.
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"Illegitimi non carborundum"
Old 06-19-2011, 07:58 PM
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I have an ATV jack - after posting a thread asking how people supported their engines.
The range of options is quite staggering - but the ATV was consistently rated best. I managed to get one, and rue all the times I have balanced my engines on the trolley jack.
Would not be without it now.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 06-19-2011, 08:12 PM
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Early 901 transaxles had push type pressure plates and throw out bearings like most cars so they seperated easily and went back together easily making it possible to remove and replace only the motor. All you have to do is line up the input shaft spines to the clutch disc and push them together and bolt them up.

With the later pull type pressure plate and throw out bearing engagement it's alot easier to remove and reinstall them together.
Old 06-20-2011, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
Early 901 transaxles had push type pressure plates and throw out bearings like most cars so they seperated easily and went back together easily making it possible to remove and replace only the motor. All you have to do is line up the input shaft spines to the clutch disc and push them together and bolt them up.

With the later pull type pressure plate and throw out bearing engagement it's alot easier to remove and reinstall them together.
Is that the reason some transmissions split easily and some not?
On my 83 SC I seem to have to pre tension the clutch plate with some specially made little spacers. I think my 82 930 just came apart , but cant remember. If I have trouble splitting the trans, I just have to insert these pre tensioning things and it seems to work. But if you have to pre tension the clutch to split it, this would be a PITA in the car.
Thanks for throwing some light on this.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 06-20-2011, 01:09 PM
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Years ago I dropped the engine on an SC I had, and left the tranny in place.

Worked great coming out, but putting the engine back in and lining everything up was not worth the time saved.

Have since dropped the engine/tranny on my 930 as a unit and wouldn't do it any other way.

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Old 06-20-2011, 02:33 PM
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