Great idea on the fan vanes. When I took my box of engine bits to cadmium plating you realize how all those little pieces of steel add up to a heavy ass.

After I had contact with ARP,they finally made it possible to get the crankcase bolt kit. A lot of bolts for even more money :) but I just wanted them, even if it doesn't make that much sense. I have to say that all the removed ones where heavily corroded or damaged when removed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679404179.JPG


No I started to find out what bolts fits where. Most are clear, but some I have no idea. Normally there is kind of manual added to the ARP kits, but here there is none. Asked them, let's see what they have. Does some of you have made or found a list of the bolts lenghts allover the case?


For example those look like transmission mount, but are short (short bell?)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679404550.JPG

Those are the most unknown, note two are narrow like for the oil gallery, but main crankcase bolts are a seperat set and I have it, so no place left

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679404949.JPG

Moved the bolt question to the engine rebuilt forum with further information:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/1136936-arp-crankcase-bolt-confusion.html#post11953366

Since I found all relevant bolts neede to start assembly engine, here we go:

New Main including no. 8 and rod bearings 0.5 oversize fitted. Same size as when disassembled, where still within specs, but showed some wear. As I follow the rule "while I am at it", no doubt I will replace them.
Also I replaced everything at Intermediat shaft: Sprockets, chains, alu gear plug and bearings. Polished shaft bearing surface as well. New oil safety and pressure valve pistons and springs. Increased pressure by adding spacer similar to 964 Turbo due the oil filter console instead of cooler.

For sealing a used same products than the Supertec case sealent kit, but without the Curil T. Sealing kit is Wrightwood Racing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680456775.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680456775.JPG

After I had some little time more to spend, I mounted the ARP head studs too using loctite 270 like on the case studs before.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680457667.JPG

Great work as always Roland! :-) I’ve been following this thread from when you started it. It’s always great to see your progress!

I’ve been doing some work on my 930 the past years as well, but like you know, life keeps us busy with childred, housework etc :)

Keep up the good work

Br

Tobias

Hej Tobias

Thank you SmileWavy

Yes, maybe I should stop working and spend all my time for the 930, but wait a moment... Damn, that would lead into money shortage :( Ok, let's proceed as usual;)

I'm glad you were finally able to get a set of both ARP stud kits Roland, and you are making progress again!

And thanks for doing the homework on where what goes for the case studs, strange that they don't come with any instructions.... I have a complete ARP engine bolt kit for a Ford small block V8 here and they simply printed everything right on the packaging so you know what things are for before taking them out. Basically no extra cost for them and they save every customer hours of work... ��

Hello Lukas

On the pack there is a picture printed, where you can see the bolts on the crankcase, but:

-it's a 964 case on that pic
-only one side shown
-bolts frontal sides not visible at all (transmission and engine carrier bolts)
-lot of bolts are just a few mm different, so impossible to see on that pic
-Kit is for several years/case variants, not clear what bolt is for your case and what's left

What I wonder the most is the fact, that ARP said on request they can't tell me for what place each bolt is:

"Hi Roland, I am sorry but we do not have a drawing so your guess on where they go would be as good as mine.
However there is a company here in the states that may be able to guide you.
They specialize in porsche. Company is Engine Builders Supply"

:confused:

But I am thankful they made a kit for me as it seems still not availabe out there.

crosspost I made here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/310463-cam-oil-line-restrictor-adapter-2.html

Just red a couple of threads about the restrictor with all the pro and against. I am still not sure if I should fit or not, but what I do not understand is that some of the guys decided to choose something in the middle of the earlier 6mm and the new with 2.5mm, so about 4mm. But this make no sense at all, as when you look closer to the cam housing, you see below the adapter that there ist the squirt tube where the oil entries. The hole there is about 4mm (verified by drill), so an adapter of 4mm does... NOTHING. So it has at least be smaller than this, otherwise it has no effect. If you like to have something in the middle you have to fit a restrictor of about 3.3mm (half the cross section)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680550753.JPG

Off-topic but important
 

What I wanted to ask since a while. I do pictures since a while using my cell. Size will be then about 8Mb each picture. To post it here, I have to reduce the size to 5Mb or less. I do this by reducing size to about 50-60% by right-click of the picture. I could also choose a pixel-size, but did not yet. What I see is that there are huge pictures in this forum compared to mine but they have to be also below 5Mb no? So how do they reduce size while let beeing big at the same time?

The pics that are huge are hosted on another site like Flickr or Photobucket. (or maybe the poster has their own site?)
Then, the pic can be as enormous as you like because you're really only posting a link in your thread to the remotely-hosted picture.

Ahhhh I see... Thanks for clarification Chris.

You're very welcome.

Thank you for the inspiration. I have many photos of your work saved in my phone.

SmileWavy I saw you like drilling things as me;) and your low budged dream car thread is nice as well. I watch it since beginning. And like you I got a lot of inspiration from others. So my credo is:
Watch around, think about and make it my way.

Tapered the wrist pins and adjusted this way the weight so all pistons are same weight of 611gr complete per set.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681161343.JPG

F... Carrillo
 

Eastern Friday was holiday so I had time to go on. I mounted the pistons and cylinders 1-3 and turned the crankshaft by hand to check everything and then... I could not turn further... back and once more same thing.:confused:
So I took the flashlight and tried to see what happend... I immediately had my suspicions and unfortunately it quickly became clear: The connecting rods 2 and 6 touch the oil pump:mad:

So no other way than to split the case again... and here it is:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681162085.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681162085.JPG

I am really very upset by Carrillo but also myself as I knew their technical info. I says the M064 engine and the 964 pump. I have the 930 case and the latest 930 pump but the bulletin does not mention anything about 930:mad:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681162723.jpg


The pump was adjusted within 5min then

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681162806.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681162806.JPG

I just had to order the o-rings for the main crankcase bolts as they can not be removed without damage... One more lost week:(

That's a bummer...at least you caught it.

There are few things less fun than redoing work you just did.
Best to catch that before you got the top-end back on.

Yes, it could (almost) always be worse... However I'll get the new seals hopefully before weekend, so I can go on. If not, I'll continue on the heads before.