Another rust combat
 

While my EFI conversion is making good progress and almost finished, my chassis needs more attention. The origin of the "brown pest" is 10 years back:

I bought the car in optically bad condition, lot of dents and paint damage, well used I would say, but almost none visible rust. A good base for my needs, as I wanted to build a nice toy, not a daily driver.

So I started to remove things I did not need anymore like heating, backseats, radio and all that stuff. The more I removed, the more I saw what has to be done else.

At a certain point I came to the conclusion, that I have to disassemble completely and remove all this protective material and the estimated four different paint coatings to check, what's underneath.

After a few shots removing that stubborn stuff, I searched for alternatives. Finally I decided on a base treatment. So I disassembled the car down to the raw chassis and stripped everything what had to come into the bathing. the big plus for this method is, that only rust will be gone, healthy metal stays untouched.

After the bath the whole story of the car was clearly visible:

To my suprice almost no rust, which was seen now as non existing metal, but a lot of accident signs all-around. I will post some pics later on this, have to scan them first from old photo-prints.

However, the body shop repaired some of the badest damages and after the car was primed with a 2K epoxy layer and painted as usual.

This was the birth of my rust problem: The painter did not painted the cavities or just let some paint fog (right word?) in. For my beginner eyes, the car looked nice like new at this time.

To make a long story short: I built-up the car and started driving.

After a few years (I drive only for fun on sunny days, made 10'000km within 10years) I observed some rusty water comming out of the rockers and tank support after washing the car:(

So I checked this and found raw areas almost in every cavaties, some had a little paint. As emergency procedure I made a body cavity treatment myself, because I did not found any serious shop here, who was able to do this seriously...:confused:

After a few visit at several body shops (from professional to feckless) I found one who will do this repair good and lasting for a long time:) For this, I have to disassemble the car again. So I take this chance and let him do some other work I wanted to do anyway in the future like closing the Sunroof opening, strengthen the weak areas etc..

Here are some pics from today:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318592368.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318592399.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318592446.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318592471.jpg

As I said before, I take this issue to correct some other things I did not like or failed over the last then years like cracks from coil-overs and damages by the track use of my forerunner:



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318592629.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318592650.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318592804.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318592836.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318592857.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318592880.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318592906.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318592927.jpg

Your car has lived a very hard life my friend....... the only real way to properly revive it, would be to strip it down to a complete bar chassis. I mean all the way down to bare metal.

Then properly repair/replace all affected areas, then repaint and then reassemble. However, you probably already know this.

There are products out there to treat the rust{RUST-MORT}, and stop it in it's tracks, but it does not repair the damage, really just another bandaid, but what are your expectations for life expectancy?

Mark

Yes, completly down-strip is what I do now. The chassis will be blasted where need is to repair/replace some sheetmetal. As you can see too, the back areas of the engine bay are quit deformated. This I want to fix too.

After discussion with my body shop guy, we will open the rockers etc. and see how it looks behind. Finally we will do what have to be done, so I can drive her for the next at least 20 years without body issues (fingers crossed):D

As we talk about rust treatment, we will use Waxoil I think, heard good things about it and it's available here in Europe

I start next week and will update this thread once or twice a week, depends on time I can spend, not married and no children;)

The beginning
 

After a little time prepairing at home to store parts until refittment I started took today off and started with disassembly.

Here the last pic of the car before:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319749505.jpg

I started with stripping doors and then removed them:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319749642.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319749718.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319749811.jpg

Next was remove of the seats and harnesses:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319749943.jpg

And finally cage:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319750031.jpg

Hi Roland, looks you will have more work ahead of you.
Keep up the good work

Only few progress today, front lights and rear quarter windows removed and one new "part" fitted

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319905131.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319905223.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319905295.jpg

Got a little time today to go on

Remove Windshield, rear window and dashboard:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320013215.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320013294.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320013370.jpg

Gauges, panels and ventilation removed:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320094940.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320095022.jpg

little progress
 

This weekend I removed Whaletail, front and rear bumper, backlights and at the end the Intercooler:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320620165.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320620246.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320620329.jpg

How far are you going to strip the car Roland?

Jim

Totally

Fuel drained and tank removed

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320795066.jpg

one more step
 

Engine is out, finally:)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323122918.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323123019.jpg

I am a big fan of POR-15 as I own an Italian(the country where tin worms were born). You must follow the instructions and neutralize the surface before application but I have never seen it fail. My mechanic uses it on all the Italian's he services and swears by it.

This is a big job you are doing Roland, good work!

Steve

I know POR-15, a friend of mine uses too, good stuff I believe.

I won't do the sheet metal/paint work myself, a professional with experience on Porsche will do.

Don't know what product he uses for box sections etc. and what kind of treatment.

Unfortunatly I saw a few things I can do while I am there;) So it will take time until she's back on the track...

Very cool Roland. However, I didn't find this project in the 101 Projects book :p

You'll find in the Volume II:D

Update
 

Please see here for collateral issue:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/644384-strange-clutch-issue.html#post6424842

Thanks

Pedal box, wiper unit and steering column removed today

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323725846.jpg

and the disassembly goes on...

There is potential to save weight here too:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323901991.jpg

Wheels off for cleaning, suspension and brake check:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323902189.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323902276.jpg

Weight savings on CV's, no issues:)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323902428.jpg

Wow, you are really stripping that down Roland

Well, after I saw this from GKN, I thought, what they can do I can too;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323938383.jpg

Front suspension and steering rack gone...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324258465.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324258541.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324258819.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324258900.jpg

Rear suspension off too:)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324588286.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324588360.jpg

Because the winter evenings are cold and dark, I found some time to think about the parts I removed.

Conclusion: There is always a place for a drill, even on a Momo steering hub:

Before:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324588548.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324588630.jpg

After:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324588706.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324588801.jpg

Drill drill drillhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...ys/drummer.gif

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324682440.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324682525.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324682631.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324682757.jpg

I like your thought process..... grams add up to ounce and ounces add up to lbs.

Off Topic:

My Friend was not wondering about the pedal cluster (he is familar with Porsche parts at home) but expected his daily goodie;)

Finally on the carrier
 

Hi to all

Hope you had a nice break and good start in 2012SmileWavy

I found some time to finish stripping and reactivate the carrier I made 10 years ago:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325715455.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325715608.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325715691.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325715816.jpg

You came a long way to strip your 930 down! Are you going to repaint it in different color? The current color looks great.

The stands with wheels looks too narrow...is it stable enough? I think it would be perfect if it's 2ft or half a meter wider.

Keep posting your progress!

Mike

No color change.

Yes, the stand is a bit narrow. It's ok to work, as long as you won't enter the cab... Can't remember why I made it this way, maybe I just did not knew it better 10 years ago

As I have some time now until the chassis is ready to reassembly I will spend the time to work on all the other things.

First what came into my fingers: Steering joints. What can I do here? Drilling of course:D:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325799633.jpg

Did I read write that you had chassis chemically dipped? If so there is a big reason in the US they have gone from like 100 to say 3 shops that do it. The chemicals stay in the seams and are very hard to bake out. Not only that you also strip all the internal surface coatings which looks like to be the case with your car.

There are many high dollar restos that show seam seap and inner panel rust do to thsi process. It takes some serious prep to do a car like that including opening and replacing most closed cavities.

You have a tough situation there as it is rusting from the inside out. I would open whatever areas you can to what is going on but again that creates another mess. POR to me just is a gimmic. There are good rust converters and removers that do work. Make sure you then coat with the correct product. Coating a rusted panel with wax will just seal the rust and moisture creating even more.

Good luck!

Did you drill holes in a steering joint? Why risk it? aluminum or lighter version are available.

Roland:

Really nice work my friend, keep the pics. comming.

Cole

Yes, car had a chemical treatment, but there are different ones. My car was not in a leaching bath but in a glycol ether bath. Further to remove rust, it was dipped in a phospor bath, which is absolutly no danger for healthy metal because it is not corrosive at all, even if some of it will stay inside

The problem was, that after that, the painter did not treated the box sections and some other areas with paint at all!

I checked the aluminum ones too, but max torque is far lower than similar sized steel ones.

In my opinion, the weaker part of the joint is on the oposite side of the pin, there (red) is much less material than around my drillings (green), so it will not fail there first

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325807197.jpg

Thanks Cole, I willSmileWavy

Back on topic.

The car will be checked very well, box sections opened and everything needed will be done. I cannot tell now, what exactly, I am no pro in sheet metal working.

I have talked to a lot of tinner people (correct word?) and found one I trust. He learned his business at a Porsche shop and has over 20years of experience. Further he made an education in painting, so I get both from one hand.