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Stripped holes in the case
Hi all!
In you efforts to do some while I am in there projects I have come across a stripped hole in the case used for installing the intermediate shaft cover. Would it be more wise to drill the hole a bit wider and re-tap the alloy or would a heli-coil be the better bet? As you can see by the image there is not a lot of material around the hole to begin with. ![]()
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Sean D. 1987 930 India Red/Beige/Black; Mahle 3.4L; Kokeln IC; K27 7200; GHL Headers; Borla Stainless Muffler; SC cams; Sachs Aluminum Clutch; Aluminum flywheel; Bilstein Sport Shocks; Adjustable Rear Sway Bar; Weltmeister Shock Tower Brace; Lowered and Corner Balanced; MOMO RSGT Seats... |
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I've gone native
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,695
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Try running a tap down the hole
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Certifiable
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Unfortunately there is no material to tap.
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I've gone native
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,695
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Maybe tap it to the next larger size, just run the next size tap in and cut some new threads, I would prefer that to helicoils which you can still do if tapping fails.
Last edited by Tt surgeon; 10-12-2012 at 05:42 AM.. |
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Fair suggestion!
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I've gone native
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,695
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Been there....
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rockwall, Texas
Posts: 8,559
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A helicoil would be the much better option for me (they are easy to use, work well, and you retain the original bolt size) . . .
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Registered
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 5,469
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Timeserts all the way, don't waste your time with a helicoil. Been there done that, have the T-Shirt, CD and post card.
Yasin
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Ole Skool - wouldn't have it any other way |
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Chain fence eating turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,126
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Helicoil is just fine when done right. That is a low torque boss, non-critical.
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Conclusion
Thanks for all your input. I opted to up the bolt size and bore and tap to match. In the spirit of not having to revisit the stripped scenario I opted for a fastener that will be tough to apply enough torque to cause stripping again. Let me know your thoughts.
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Sean D. 1987 930 India Red/Beige/Black; Mahle 3.4L; Kokeln IC; K27 7200; GHL Headers; Borla Stainless Muffler; SC cams; Sachs Aluminum Clutch; Aluminum flywheel; Bilstein Sport Shocks; Adjustable Rear Sway Bar; Weltmeister Shock Tower Brace; Lowered and Corner Balanced; MOMO RSGT Seats... |
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Metal Guru
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I don't mean to offend you but that looks like a bodged repair job.
Our cars have value and as such, they should always be repaired to the highest standard, IMO. Time Certs would have essentially restored the threads and allowed you to use factory fasteners.
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Paul B. '91 964 3.3 Turbo Port matched, SC cams, K27/K29 turbo, Roush Performance custom headers w/Tial MV-S dual wastegates, Rarlyl8 muffler, LWFW, GT2 clutch & PP, BL wur, factory RS shifter, RS mounts, FVD timing mod, Big Reds, H&R Coilovers, ESB spring plates- 210 lb |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,249
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If you're into a real low torque on those it would be better to use allen head bolts and drill a hole through the head sideways and then safety wire them so they can't come loose and fall out.
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 364
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wtf, use a time sert, don't take a chance.
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1981 411 rwhp, Ruf intercooler, 964 cams, Turbo Kraft injector blocks, Extrude honed intake, 7006 Turbo, Tial wastegate, RarlyL8 exhaust, MSD6al |
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911nut and hirevtuner point taken. Thanks for the feedback!
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