'76 930 not run in 5 years, how do I remove & clean fuel distributor head?

[G60SuperCharger]

Hi All,

I have a '76 Euro market non-sunroof 930 with the original leather and plaid interior. It only has about 40,000 miles on it.

It was last run regularly in late 2007, and the fuel had gone bad since then. I had the tank boiled, installed all new fuel lines, filters, and fuel pumps.

When I crank the starter, the injectors all sing as if on full throttle, and strong gasoline vapor is coming out of the exhaust. It tries to run but floods out.

I've revived other CIS cars before and was able to take a few bolts off to remove the fuel distributor head, clean it and free up the plunger, but I can't figure out how to remove the bigger head on the Turbo CIS system.

Any help is appreciated!

[RarlyL8]

There are 3 screws on the top of the head that are most likely rusted tight. Remove the fuel lines from the head and also the line going to the WUR. Soak the screws in your favorite lubricating oil overnight. The screws will try to strip so make sure you have a good bite with the driver. Best to lower the engine for more room if they don't break free right off.
We rebuild CIS components and I have an early 930 FD on the shelf if you cannot get yours to function.

[G60SuperCharger]

[slow&rusty]

Great looking car. Good luck on the fuel distributor removal and getting her running again. if all else fails Brian will definitely take care of you.
Yasin

[WPOZZZ]

Wow, another copper brown early turbo!

[G60SuperCharger]

Thanks for the help...will give it a go. I'm excited to get it going too. It has the original 3.0 engine recently rebuilt, with a k27, Tial, complete ghl exhaust and a Simpson intercooler. Should be quite a beast!

[JFairman]

If those screws don't want to come loose with a screwdriver use an impact tool befroe the screw slots gfat messed up. Use the type that you hold with one hand and hit with a hammer to do the job.
Sears and Harbor Freight have them inexpensive and they usually come with flat blade screwdriver bits to put on the end.

I had to do that with mine and had to remove the air flow meter unit first time I removed it. Then I bought 3 stainless steel allen head bolts the same length and threads as the origonal screws. They fit and work great in the recessed holes on the fuel head and look like they should have been there that way from the factory.

There is an oring that goes in a groove on the bottom of the fuel head that keeps air from leaking in there. Put some grease or vasaline on it before fitting the fuel head back on so it slides in nice.

[LOWFAT]

Does your car have the factory tool kit with the L shaped flat blade screw driver in it,if so try that after soaking the three screws. I did this a few years ago and it worked great.

[JFairman]

Originally Posted by LOWFAT

Does your car have the factory tool kit with the L shaped flat blade screw driver in it,if so try that after soaking the three screws. I did this a few years ago and it worked great.

That's called an offset screwdriver and if the screws are in loose it should work. If they're in tight forget it. You ned to be able to put alot more controlled downward force on the screwdriver while turning the screw to keep it in the slot.

6mm stainless steel allen head bolts work wayyyy better than those lousy screws and look right too.

[G60SuperCharger]

Thanks for your help...I was able to find them and break them loose by taking a large flathead bit and holding the bit firmly down with vice grips.

Now to free up the plunger! It looks like the top shaft of the plunger can be seen through the top of the housing through the middle inlet. Would prying on that free it up? In the past I've used electrical tape wrapped needle nose pliers to carefully pull the plunger up.

[fredmeister]

Originally Posted by G60SuperCharger

Thanks for your help...I was able to find them and break them loose by taking a large flathead bit and holding the bit firmly down with vice grips.

Now to free up the plunger! It looks like the top shaft of the plunger can be seen through the top of the housing through the middle inlet. Would prying on that free it up? In the past I've used electrical tape wrapped needle nose pliers to carefully pull the plunger up.

Can you post a photo of what you are doing?

It might be good to see whats going on inside the fuel head to help with suggestions.

Thanks,
Fred

[T77911S]

nice looking car.

to quote john candy in spaceballs, "theyve gone...... plaid"

[jsveb]

I would initially take as little apart as necessary. And not remove the fuel head from the rest of the fuel control unit.

I would soak/submerge the whole thing in mineral spirit for a couple of days. Follow on with techron or equivalent.
While doing this I am aiming to get the plunger operating freely along with the meeting valve in the fuel head.
Once I think this has been accomplished. I'd hook it back up without installing the injectors only the lines.
Now power on and push the plunger to flush as much fuel through the system as I feel needed to ensure I have good even flow. Now measure that you have even flow. Hook up injectors and repeat.
That's it for that part.

iPhone post so excuse the typos

[JFairman]

With the fuel head off the air flow meter housing squirt some WD40 on the bottom of the control plunger and it will soak in to the clearance between it and the cylinder it's in.
I've done that with old fuel heads that sat for a while and got a little sticky and it freed them up and lubricated them nicely.

[G60SuperCharger]

Here is my fuel distributor. I soaked the head in Berryman's chemtool fuel injector cleaner, and now the plunger has moved lower into housing and is still stuck! Should I try the WD40 as suggested above?

[RarlyL8]

Leave it facing up as it is and pour carb cleaner over the piston. Let it soak for a few days keeping it full of solvent. If that doesn't work it needs to come apart.

[G60SuperCharger]

That's the problem...the method you described DID work...but the piston sunk further into the housing and won't come back out!

I'm going to try some compressed air through the top to try to pop it out. Someone suggested I use a towel under it so the piston doesn't come out of the bore.

[jsveb]

Any way to hook it up to a pressure source to simulate fuel pressure?

[herman maire]

Maybe a Strong magnet if it steel .

[Flat6pac]

Apply air pressure on the WUR center line and see if the pin blows out.
Bruce