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Question for AireTEK airbox install
I am installing an AireTEK cold air intake on my 86 930. Everything lines up fine but the problem is two of the hoses from the stock air box do not have a spot to connect to the new air box. One hose runs from the WUR to the bottom of the air box the other runs from the box alongside the charge pipe and down. I have included pics of the hoses. What are my options to use this box and what do I do with the hoses? As always thanks for the help.
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When I replaced my air box with a simple filter, I used appropriately sized K&N breather filters to terminate the four vent hoses left over, two of which you show. You can measure the ID of the hoses, find the appropriate part numbers on the K&N website, and order the filters. (I bought them on Amazon).
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The large breather hopse coming from the turbo drip tank i would put one of those snazzy breather ends on. The smaller hose coming from the WUR i would replace with a longer one and run beneath the car away from the exhaust or run it to your new filter box with some fabrication. It releases gasoline if your WUR ever ruptures.
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'87, Modified WUR, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD |
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Drill a hole in the new box for the WUR line (safety issue). Get a small filter for the turbo tank line (it's just a vent hose so don't worry about getting anything fancy).
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In post #16 you can see my solution I chose for the same issue you have
WTB Cold Air Intake
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Thanks for all of the replies. As always the best free advise anywhere on the web
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OK so I took the advise here and tapped a fitting into the airbox for the WUR worked very well. Now onto the next problem I have been trying for days to attach the airbox to the mounting plate using the stock screws. I cannot get them to thread in. Are the stock screws to short? Am I just not lining it up correctly? Has anyone else had this problem? I have never had this much trouble with a bolt on part in my entire life.
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My guess is that your stock bolt is too short. Even with bolts of sufficient length the Aire Tek can occasionally prove to be more of a pain to install than it oughta be.
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Maybe that gasket piece has to be removed from your metering plate before the install.
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'87, Modified WUR, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD |
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Tried removing the gasket piece and the box still only goes on so far down only about the distance to where the gasket would be. I guess I will go in search of some longer bolts tomorrow. They will probably be quite hard to find.
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I bought one of those AirTek units, new from Pelican, a couple of years ago, and when I initially tried to install it, could not even think about getting the bolts and holes to line up. I ended up enlarging/ovaling the holes in the airbox top in order to have some room to move the bolts around (I used large enough fender washes, along with rubber washers of the same size, to cover the holes). The unit came with new bolts, however I do not remember if they were longer than the stock ones or not. I also used a grinding wheel to make the bolt tips pointy in order to more easily locate them in the holes - ha ha sounds wrong!). I can't measure them now because I recently sold it and shipped it to Indonesia.
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How long are the bolts you are using? The bolts for the stock box are 3" in length approx.
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'87, Modified WUR, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD |
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Another thing I wanted to mention is I was wondering if you have the L shaped support bracket that mounts to the bracket for the original air cleaner housing (shown in your last picture - to the right of the WUR). The prop that came with the AirTek unit is a simple L shape and that end of the housing rests on it. Without that, or a simple, homemade version of one, the weight of the filter makes the housing droop down and look sloppy. I added a piece of weather striping to the top of the bracket so the metal would not rub on the plastic housing.
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Oil the bolts are 3" I was thinking if I could find 3.25" that would do it. Do you know of anywhere local that would have them? Ronnie thank you for all of the advise maybe I can make a bracket for that you would think for what they charge for this everything would be perfect and it would bolt right up. My last car I just used a round air cleaner and Fab speed breather kit maybe that is the way to go after all cheaper and easier
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Maybe try home depot or a hardware store Mike.
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'87, Modified WUR, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD |
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Or ditch the plastic thing and get one of these...
K&N RU-5163 Universal Rubber Filter : Amazon.com : Automotive I drilled a hole in the center of the rubber top of the K&N filter and put in a 90 degree 5/16" brass fuel line fitting . Then Tee'd the gas tank and WUR vent lines together and connected them to it. Cheap, leaves way more room for engine access, probably makes less air turbulance swirling around above the air flow meter sensor plate and flows air as well or better than the expensive plastic thing. Remove the stock air cleaner metal ring and rubber gasket from the air flow meter so the K&N air filter slides down a little farther. |
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That is similar to what I used in my last car but this time I thought why not give the expensive one a try so far seems like a mistake
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