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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Indianapolis
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tarett install question

I'm in the process of my suspension and brake refresh and it came time to install the front sway bar while everything is being plated and coated. I was able to mount the bearing and backer plate in about 10 minutes using the coat hanger trick only to find that I cannot insert the bar through the body due to some lines being in the way. In looking through the 1 1/8 hole, I can't tell what lines they are and can't force the bar through.

Since it has a full tank, I really don't feel like pulling the tank. Plus, every single bolt fought me the whole way. Does anyone have any insight to what I'm running into? Any tips?.....or do I just need to drain the tank and see for myself?

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-Todd
1987 911 Turbo, Marine Blue, GT35R, BB Headers, Tial, Andial IC
Old 02-08-2014, 10:24 AM
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When I had the gas tank out of my '87 to restore and paint it with rustoleum smoke grey enamel I remember the wire harness for the front brake pad wear sensors going through the area you're talking about.

I don't think you want to go to all the trouble to drain and remove the gas tank unless you want to repaint it. I think you could bend a small hook into the end of a coat hanger and fish around the back side of the gas tank with it until you snag the harness. Then gently pull it out of the way so you can get your new sway bar in. Then push the coat hanger back in and twist it to unhook the wire harness and that should work.

By the way my gas tank came out beautiful... I brush painted it and the rustoleum enamel flowed out over the textured surface real nice. No brush strokes afterward.
I slowly peeled off the gold sticker on top for spare tire inflation specs and contact cemented it back on after painting the tank.
I took out the brass plug and fine screen filter on the bottom to clean it and put it back in with some blue hylomar gasket sealer on the o-ring. It doesn't leak at all.

The rustoleum smoke grey enamel was like $9 or $10 a quart at Walmart.
Old 02-08-2014, 12:53 PM
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Thanks for the reply. It looks like there are several things in the spot that the bar needs to go. I would think that the small harness could be "moved" out of the way by the bar. But since I can't, I guess I'm going to have to start draining the tank. Thankfully, I don't think I will need to repaint anything!
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-Todd
1987 911 Turbo, Marine Blue, GT35R, BB Headers, Tial, Andial IC
Old 02-08-2014, 01:06 PM
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I still think you can do what I said before but if you decide to drain the tank to remove it the easiest way is drive the car until the reserve light comes on in the fuel gauge.
Then disconnect the fuel supply line from the fuel head and stick a larger hose over the end of it. Then stick the other end of that hose into a large jerry can or whatever to collect the remaining approximately 1.5 to 2 gallons of gas in the tank. Then turn on the fuel pumps and run them until the tank runs out of gas. A little will be left but not much.

Afterwards you can pour the gas back in so you can drive to a gas station and fill up.
Old 02-08-2014, 01:16 PM
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Be very careful draining the tank. If you use the main drain be prepared for the fuel to come out like a fire hydrant, very difficult to control...don't ask me how I know. There's nothing like 10 gallons of gas on the garage floor and your wife's on her way home...
I would run the car down near empty as far as you can then try the above method.
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Last edited by TT Gasman; 02-08-2014 at 01:20 PM..
Old 02-08-2014, 01:17 PM
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I would LOVE to drive the car until nearly empty, but there is no suspension on the car. I'm thinking about siphoning from the top, since I would be spilling a FULL tank.

I will take another look at it tonight and see if I can have another go at just moving it.

Thanks guys!
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-Todd
1987 911 Turbo, Marine Blue, GT35R, BB Headers, Tial, Andial IC
Old 02-08-2014, 01:24 PM
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If you siphon the gas out remove the fuel level sending unit and do it from there. There's a cork gasket under it that may need replacing. It's the same cork gasket used on the oil tank sending unit.
I smear some hylomar on the gasket to make sure it doesn't leak when filling the tank. Hylomar never dries or hardens and it ignores gasoline and ethanol.

Hylomar was designed by Rolls Royce in the UK for turbine engines and has tripled in price in the last 5 or 6 years and the best price I've found recently for 100 gram tubes of it is from this ebay seller:
Hylomar Universal Blue Gasket Sealant Sealer 3.5 oz 100gram Tube | eBay

It's also good for the case seams of 911 race motors that come apart after 24 to 48 hours running because it seals really good, never dries, and cleans off quick and easy with a rag wetted with laquer thinner.
Old 02-08-2014, 03:00 PM
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You are making this way too hard. Just disconnect a fuel hose from the engine compartment, push on an extension hose, and aim that into your jerry can. Turn the car on so the fuel pump runs all the fuel into your jerry can and you're empty with no spills.
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:21 PM
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The main culprit was the battery cable! Once I moved that just a little bit, the next bad guy was the wires going to the AC unit in the smugglers box. You can see where I undid the cable tie to make room for the bar. Now all I have to do is secure the wiring a little better while I wait for my new gas tank gasket to arrive....and finish the bearings, brakes, suspension, ect.

It better feel like a new car when spring rolls around (and I better be finished!).



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1987 911 Turbo, Marine Blue, GT35R, BB Headers, Tial, Andial IC
Old 02-10-2014, 11:07 AM
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