I haven't found a 930 build yet, Brian, but the one H2odiesel bought is a 56mm (small comp wheel but high flow capability due to extended tip). With a divided T3 footprint on a 3.3, it has to spool like the turbo is connected to the gas pedal I'd imagine after seeing how quick some the 4-cylinder guys are able to spool them.

When I say 4-cylinder guys, I'm referring to the 2.2-2.4 (stroker) engines.

Sounds interesting. I need to look into this further. We've tried a lot of turbos and while performance is not an issue quality certainly is. A cheap turbo can cause an expensive problem real quick.

Theres nothing more expensive than a cheap Ferrari.

Hi guys

Not sure if this was ever posted.. Some good reading and dyno-graphs on various turbos.

Twinscroll Borgwarner vs Twinscroll GT35R - NASIOC

Just a word of caution; I saw on the websites I posted that the "RS" models have genuine CHRA's. Not sure what they use for the non-RS?

But, I've never read about a failure in the "tuner" crowd who nearly always run 35-40+ PSI of boost.

I've seen a couple posts here about 3LDZ being unserviceable, cant get parts, can't trust the parts you can get etc. Keep in mind Porsche Classic does include this under it's availability for exchange parts. Keeps you stock and as Porsche says, "better for the environment". . . somehow. Not sure about cost but the exchange nature must keep it reasonable, and warranty of 2 years from factory is pretty damn good-maybe that's if they install it.

Anyway just thought I'd remind everyone the death of the 3LDZ has been greatly exaggerated. And NO, I have no affiliation with Porsche, Porsche Classic, Pörsche Klassic or any derivative. If I did then I would have a clue what I'm doing.

Genuine Exchange Parts - Service Products - Porsche Service - Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG

True, they will, but if it's like their prices on exchange rebuilt fuel distributors, then no -- it isn't reasonable.
Porsche also offers cylinder heads via exchange, as well as entire longblock engines if you're feeling wealthy enough.
But you do get a 2-yr warranty.

I want to follow up on this. To recap, I have added a turbo to my 1985 3.2L Targa using a J-pipe from a 930. For fueling there is a Begi rising rate fuel pressure regulator, and for timing there is a MSD unit that has adjustable retard on boost. For gauges there are AEM wide band AFR and boost units. I started off with a 3K 3LDZ and was happy with the improvement in performance, but felt to 3ldz lacked in the oil control department even after a rebuild. Enter a new turbo.

After weeks of research and consultation with members and vendors on this site I decide to go with a new BW S200. I got mine here
Borg Warner / AGP S200sx_RS_56 Turbocharger - AGP Turbochargers, Inc. Store
but I'm sure any of the excellent vendors here could supply a similar unit. I can't do any precise data logging with my set up, but from scanning the gauges and seat of the pants this is a very good turbo. It starts making boost around 2200rpm and is all in for my waste gate(7psi) before 3200. There is strong acceleration all the way to 6500 rpm. Overall the performance is much improved over the 3LDZ. As an added bonus there is a very noticeable turbo whistle that starts as soon as you shift into second before boost starts even with only moderate acceleration. All in all I am very please with the performance of the turbo. Unfortunately for me at least some of the smoking I was attributing to the 3K unit must be from valve guides and maybe rings. I also have an annoying leak at the left side chain housing to cam housing joint, so it is engine drop time for me. I just hope I can resist some of the "while you're in there" slippery slope.

Yea!!! I'm glad to hear.

What gear were you testing boost onset? These 930 guys use 4th, so 5th would be the gear to SOMEWHAT be equal.

Even so, 5th in our cars is LOWER than a 930's 4th, slightly skewing data in a 930's favor.

Point is, all in boost would be a lower RPM in a 930 from what you've seen.

I'm going to do a compression check in the next day or two. If the is nothing really disturbing I'll do a couple more runs. So I'm straight are you saying to shift early into 5th so I'm rolling along at say 2500 and floor it, then note boost onset rpm and rpm at max?

I'd seriously start in the tallest gear at 1000rpm. Watch the boost gauge closely, use a camera for later viewing if need be.

Yep, but maybe a little lower RPM.

So what gear was it when you did it???

You'll have to forgive the poor quality iPhone video. My gauges are normally mounted in the spot for the radio, so between holding the gauge in one hand and the iPhone in the other and steering with my knee its the best I could do on short notice.

YouTube

Looks to me like boost starts around 2000-2100 rpm and hits the waste gate at 7psi around 3300-3400 I'll add the car is not quite up to snuff as I think I have a fouled plug or two from over filling the oil when I tried to top it up the other day. This is all in fifth gear.

Hmm, I'm sure if you're misfiring, you're affecting spool.

I hit 15lbs of boost sooner (3100-3300 depending on ground level) with the same engine but a bigger "P" trim/.84AR 58mm Holset.

I'd redo after fixing your ailing ignition and see the results.

Agreed, I see possative pressure at 1000rpm.

Now after listening to the audio, it does sound like you are missing out bad. That turbo sure does sound good!

Can't wait to get mine.

Updates??

I'm pretty sure I posted something over on the engine rebuild forum. I was sick of the occasional smoke and oil drips so I pulled the engine. I got it down to the crank today. It really didn't look bad other than the oil rings were packed solid with crud. The guides were worn out too. I've got a gasket and sealant kit coming from Henery at Supertech, a full complement of rings, bearings and pieces from our host and ARP Studs and bolts from a different vendor. Most of it should be here tomorrow. I'll post up when she is back up and running, hopefully sooner than latter. I've got a bunch of work commitments coming up.

Oh, I thought you had a minor tune up to do to resolve the misfire, not a rebuild. Ouch...