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turbo recomendations
Despite a rebuild at a local shop my 3LDZ it is still spiting and spattering oil all over the back of my 85 Targa. It has been great enjoying the new turbo power from my conversion, but since I will be replacing the turbo, a well priced alternative is in order. I'm running an otherwise stock 3.2L motor with a 930 J-pipe, a Begi regulator, and a MSD retard on boost unit. My goals are a reliable streetable 300 to 375 Hp on .5 to .75 Bar boost. I'm not looking to run it up to 7000rpm every other shift so I'd like boost to start at 3000rpm or lower. Of course my budget is limited, so under $1000 would be good but around $500 would be better. Can I get there with a K27 or would something like a T3 60 work better?
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I am no expert but with a fresh 3LDZ it sounds like youd be able to hit your goal.
I think a call to Brian at Rarlyl8 and Chris at TurboKraft would be immensely helpful in turbo selection. |
In your price range it will be a used one.
I guess your cams are SC/3.2 Carrera profile and you have 8.5:1 compression ratio so a used 3K K27 7200 or UMW K27S that's in good condition would probably work well for you. Garrets are nice and more efficiant than K27's but I think you'll have to do some adaptations to the oil line to fit one of those. I think new ones are over $1000 and then add the oil line and oil restricter so again you're looking at used ones. If you want to keep it simple, relatively low cost, and reliable a good used K27 would work well. |
If you want more than the boost levels you mentioned, you can use a T66.
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How are you dealing with the return oil from your freshly rebuilt 3LDZ? Turbo might be fine, and return oil flow not so fine.
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Look at larger Borg Warner S200 series turbos or smaller S300's. Around $600 brand new.
The BW S366 (66mm good to 750-800hp) will be my next turbo. Can get for $625 all day long. Anything else and you're wasting money and spool. ;) |
Agree with Speedy....also depending on who rebuilt it with which parts the turbo will flow oil differently. You have to match scavenging/return and supply. Hence I've seen restrictor balls and restrictor plates on inlet used successfully.
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Where did your local shop source the rebuild kit for the 3LDZ? We stopped handling these when the Asian knock-offs infiltrated BW with junk kits.
Oiling on the Carrera conversions can be an issue if not using the 930 system which includes the small ball bearing, and properly evacuating the sump. There are lots of ricer turbos that will fit your engine in your price range. A nice used GT30 or K27-7200 would hit your power vs lag goals. |
For oil feed I am using the factory 930 fittings with the ball bearing and a 1.5 mm restrictor at the turbo for supply and a 10AN line from the turbo drain to the engine sump at the oil dain plug location. The 3LZ was rebuilt using a kit from Melett, a UK company that this shop uses regularly. They have done a good job in the past for me on Marine turbos and injectors. I have an electric scavenge pump sitting on the shelf and I could order up some more AN fittings and Plumb it in for a test but I would rather not be running a pump all the time if it wasn't completely necessary. I looked at the maps for BW S300 series and at .5 to .75 bar you never really make it onto the map. I admit I don't know how important that is but it is something to think about.
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3LDZ = obsolete, genuine components are NLA from 3K-Warner.
Aftermarket rebuild kits are typically junk. Ex: a max bearing tolerance may be 3.7, and the new replacement bearing measures at 5.0. Useless -- you're assembling a new worn-out turbo. To assemble a genuine 3LDZ rebuild kit, you have to purchase 3 separate kits. So properly remanufacturing a 3LDZ gets expensive. We only do maybe 1x/month, and it's only worth it if it's an all-stock, all original 930. Otherwise, upgrade and enjoy. Just about everything out-performs the 3LDZ. <$1000 and closer to $500 -- look at a 57-trim. Cheap to buy, cheap to upgrade, cheap to rebuild. |
Avoid eBay for turbo purchases! Lots of fake units on there.
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No eBay..unless its your trusted blood brother.My " deal" blew up in 100 miles. Lodged a retaining nut somewhere in the intake then wrecked a second turbo when it was "found" again.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396662165.jpg
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Try here for a $750, nice spooling, big power turbo (no firsthand, but have read lots of dyno graphs and good things about it):
Borg Warner / AGP S200sx_RS_56 Turbocharger - AGP Turbochargers, Inc. Store If you search enough, probably could beat this price too. :) |
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New = yummy. No worries.
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eBay isn't the problem it's the vendors. I buy from eBay but I search abit to see what the product is and where it's from. There are some vendors I use often and know their quality. I like the true Borg Warner turbos (yes, there are copies but they are obvious). I know it's not a P-car but I'm running a S-363 over a S-475 compound setup on my Cummins. 60+ psi and no problems. They are very adaptable. The thing I do like about eBay and PayPal is you are protected with in 45 days of initial purchase. So it it's not what you thought you were getting they atleast fix it fast.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396717899.jpg
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Quote:
Garrett T3/T04E Stage III Turbo 57 Trim 475 HP [GAR-STAGEIII-038] - $639.00 : Himni Racing, Turbocharger, Turbo, Garrett, Turbo Kit, GReddy, Mazda RX-7, HKS, Apexi, TiAL, TurboXS, TurboSmart, Flange, Turbonetics, Exhaust, Intercooler, ACT, Intake |
What mods do you have to your car?
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Would this be any good?
I read K27/K29 hybrids cab be good but not seen a #13 hot side one before... |
Big power but going to be lazy. Remember, ANY KKK That was used on all older turbo cars have old technology, heavy impeller shafts, and are not fast spooling. Going with newer turbos are definetly the way to go unless, as Chris stated, the car is all original and you want to keep it that way for value retension. But as far as performance, literally all newer design turbos will outperform the original turbos hands down.
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