LOL!!! That's right!

I just bought a G50/01 for my car so I am swapping gear boxes entirely. I will be removing the shifter very soon!

The fuel pump mod can be found here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/575052-930-fuel-pump-fuse-overload-solution.html

You may want to check that out!

Chris.

^^^^^^
Speaking about- FPR-URO-(Daniel) Sent me Red-fuel pump relay- a couple of weeks ago, after I said it failed within weeks. I posted my review on the 911-tech-forum area. I got an e-mail- URO-Daniel sending me a new version ( was skeptical)--sent to my office.. Arrived 1.5 weeks later in a big-URO-box- Have tested the FPR- for the past 2 weekends...So far so good and not warm to the touch after shutting it down.

PS-Jeff leave the car alone.. :) Even though I luv upgrades, you need to find a great mechanic and not break the wallet at the same time....Wait--I'm wrong....It will break the wallet no matter what.

No love? :-(

Just kidding, those gifs are hilarious!

Asbury's car has made me a huge fan of Venetian Blue.

WUR -- there are other options for adjusting them, and what you're proposing just isn't that radical. I think we must have about 15-20 cores, so your WUR stays all original. Everything you've listed is bolt-on, 100% reversible should you be overcome with the need to remove 170hp/170tq and linear drivability from your 930.

Chris, you bring up a good question that I have been wondering about. Based on the parts that I mentioned, is +170hp/170tq a reasonable outcome? I understand that there are a lot of variables, so nothing is ever guaranteed, but is that the ballpark? It is actually more than I was thinking it would be.

As for WUR's, are you saying that you could adjust it based on my needs or that you can make it adjustable so that anytime I modify, I can adjust as necessary, ala BL? The local porsche shop here in NJ, Powertech, doesn't like messing with them.

Mine's Minerva Chris...only available in the disco era:cool:
http://asbury.smugmug.com/By-Land/My...DSC_0404-L.jpg

^^^ I LOVE that color Jacob.

Sorry, Jacob! Brain fade.

Yes, that's a fair ballpark from our experience, running 1.05bar boost, 93-octane.

Yes, your WUR (or a donor one) can be adjusted. Not fun, not as easy as the Leask one.

This is sound advice, i was unable to follow it though with my car.

You can't ignore the present market, I'd keep it close to stock.
Lowered, aligned, stock engine w just an exhaust, permatune Cdi n coil,bilstein shocks n inserts, strut bar, steering wheel and a modern stereo.
Al, your car is perfect!

Your forgetting Chris i gutted out the entire emissions "system", no more intermediate manifold since i went long neck. That meant the stock shroud was cut larger. The new turbo required some engine tin cutting to get the 965 down pipe to meet it. changed oil lines and wastegate plus headers also. No longer bone stock. Plus i painted flames on the hood.

Not so sure about that, hoss, I seem to be ignoring it just fine, and Paul has extended it two tall middles! :D

- flames RULE! ;-)

- I'm understanding you have a 965 IC, so I can see having to mod the shroud.
For our Longneck IC, we remove the stock shroud altogether, put it in a box with the stock IC.

- you are correct -- bigger diameter turbos do require modding the rear engine tin for the revised compressor outlet (enlarge factory hole).
Thanks for the reminder, that slipped my mind. Must be coffee-o-clock...

But headers, muffler, WG, oil lines... all bolt-on, removable. Stock smog nonsense could be reinstalled if required.

Not bone stock, but I'll wager it's a far better driver.

I have the Kokeln long neck Chris, so i cut the shroud off in two areas and shaved it in the other two, not perfectly sealed but somewhat sealed. After a boost event if if feel the up pipe to intercooler area it is warm and if i feel the neck going into the throttlebody it is cool, so it is cooling the air well. By the way the turbo i use was purchased from you by another poster. I obtained it from him in a trade and i like it alot.

Jeff, re: header choice, I suggest you think hard on whether you want decent heat in your car for the bookends of the northeast driving season, and choose accordingly. The performance of the available systems may be within a few percentage points of each other for a build such as yours, but the heat is not.

So this is a good conversation and a good point to debate, based on what the market is doing to these cars (especially older ones than mine). A few have made the valid point that stock is where its at when it comes to high dollar resale for a desired collectible car. I agree with that. Of course, the other side is that this car was made to be driven, and adding HP and making it more fun to drive is what it is all about. I agree with that too.

What I am trying to do is to have my cake and eat it too. My plan is to only do basically bolt on mods (exhaust, turbo, WG, IC, etc) Everything I do would be able to be 100% undone back to bone stock. If I can get 150hp to make this car silly fast and silly fun, while still being able to pull it all off and sell it as stock and then sell all the parts if that is where the market is (if I ever sell), what is the downside? I paid $44k for the car 4 months ago. Hagerty says it is worth a lot more than that already. I don't see values dropping, so as long as I don't wreck it, and am able to return it to stock, I don't see me losing money, but that is not why I bought the car anyway. I've wanted this car since I was 12yrs old and I didn't buy it to make money off it. If I can drive it, mod it, and make money if I ever sell, I win. Right?

Love hearing opinions about this!

But give me more opinions on my mod options too!

Heat is definitely a necessity here. I have not done a lot of research on the heat exhangers. Are there headers with really bad heat XC's? Never thought of that, since the OEM heat isnt great to begin with... Are there any comparisons available or any info for me to consider with regards to heat?

Jeff my opinion is get a long neck intercooler, bigger turbo, aftermarket muffler with a bung welded to so you can install an AFR gauge so you know how rich or lean you are running at idle, cruise and boost and then tune properly, maybe even buy an adjustable warm up regulator. Then read about Short Tube Headers and Equal Length Tuned Headers and decide what is best for your needs. JMHO

Hmmm. Never considered not getting headers right off the bat. What is the benefit of waiting?

But that does bring up a good point. Assuming I don't buy everything at once, what would be the general order of upgrades? What can wait till later and what really cant?

The best heat options are bb and fabspeed. More than balances minimal gains from equal length tubes. Remember, the 935 race cars all had short tube headers.
Keep it to simple boltons, that's the way to go.
Order; muffler, ic, headers, turbo....

Well first i have read here that people have gotten some pretty good numbers with the stock headers (not the old style ones, they're garbage). Plus i went headers last since i wanted to bolt on my new turbo and fabricate the mounting plate to the stock position of the factory header flange. Sometimes that flange on aftermarket headers can be off a little and now when you mount your turbo to it the up pipe can be way off in position meeting the intercooler. JMHO