What is this part and do I need it?

[Mike80911]

Hello all can someone please tell me what this part is and what it controls? The vacuum hose from the distributor runs in one side and there are two lines coming out the other. One of the leads is broken so I do not think it was working to begin with. Can I take it out and run the vacuum direct to the distributor? As always thanks for the help

[Hams930T]

Looks like the little solenoid that prevents the distributor from seeing boost. You do need that connected to the distributor.

Chris.

[Mike80911]

Thank you Chris

[Speedy Squirrel]

Just having it there doesn't do squat. You also have to have it plugged into the wiring and the speed relay must be present under the seat.

[Mike80911]

It was hooked up but one of the connections was missing I fixed the connection and ran the vacuum line back Thank you for the input

[JFairman]

If you have a catalytic converter and need all the emissions crap working to pass emission testing and register your car you may as well leave it.
It is blocking vacuum retard for the first couple minutes after a cold start so the idle is a little higher and the motor will actually run and make maybe 30-40 horsepower below 2000 rpm while getting off the line after a cold start with all the other prehistoric emissions crap they put on 30 years ago.

If you don't need all that junk to pass emissions get it out of the blue vacuum retard line and get rid of the thermovalve hidden under the air flow meter in the red vacuum advance line. The motor will run better.

You can use that little peirburg change over valve for other things that are good for performance like blocking the boost signal to the control pressure regulator below 4600 rpms with an rpm switch so the motor doesn't go pig rich when boost comes on at 3300 rpms.

[DSPTurtle]

Looks like a big fat aftermarket intercooler. Surprised your installer didn't remove the old emissions stuff at the time of install.

[Mike80911]

All of the emissions items have been removed so I guess then I will remove this also

[oilonly]

Mike here is a must read vac connections thread, any questions call me.
I can't seem to learn how to copy and paste a thread on my new used IPad so the name of the thread is " Cruise surge/boost issues" by 16volt.

[Mike80911]

Thanks Al I printed the diagram and I will get to the car later I will let you know how it goes.

[Mike80911]

OK so I took off enough parts to trace down the vacuum hoses for the distributor now I have some more questions. There are 2 identical valves that have vacuum hoses for the distributor. (see pic 1) I know you guys said I can remove the first one and run the blue line direct but do I also remove the other valve and cap off the vacuum port that feeds it?
Also the red line from the distributor runs to another 2 port valve in the back of the engine (see pic 2) Do I also remove those lines and run the red line direct? If I remove the red vacuum lines from that valve what do I do with the valve?

[DSPTurtle]

Remove them all. Save them though. Could be worth big bucks one day. Two lines run from the dizzy to the throttle body. Check your breather cover too... I bet it has a valve in it that you need to disconnect and plug. Or get a breather cover with no hole drilled.

[Mike80911]

What do I do about the valve in the second picture with the red lines do I remove it and use a plug instead? Maybe a stupid question but where is the breather cover?

[JFairman]

Yes and Yes.
The second change over valve operates the two diverter valves that switched the air blowing out of the air pump between the catalytic converter and the air injection nozzles in the exhaust ports shortly after a cold start.
Remove it and keep it or sell it. You should remove the air injection manifold and nozzles in the exhaust ports on the bottom of the heads and buy threaded plugs and install them in the 10x1mm holes if they are still there.
If you don't the intense exhaust port heat can erode them and pieces of them can break off and get blown through the turbine wheel in your turbo and take it out.

The little red valve on the intake manifold you circled is the mechanical thermovalve in the red vacuum advance line I mentioned before. More cold start emissions crap that lowers performance.
It blocks vacuum advance to the distributor pot so ignition doesn't advance as much after a cold start so the catalytic converter heated up faster and lowered emissions sooner after a cold start.
Bypass it for better ignition timing advance and performance after a cold start. You can just leave it there with no lines on it or remove it. No reason to bother plugging the fittings on it.

[Mike80911]

Thank you for the help I have already removed the air injection manifolds when I put on the headers and plugged the ports with the plugs sold by our host. Thanks again for all of your help it really is kind of you to share your knowledge (which judging by your posts is quite extensive) of these cars with others here on the board