Short-term Rotella T6 feedback

[Tippy]

Hey guys, wanted to give some feedback on Rotella T6 15W-40. My engine has always ran Valvoline VR-1 20W-50.......some slimy, napalmy stuff to say the least.

T6 is synthetic and VR-1 is not, figuring I might be hurting my new Borg turbo with coking. Never really found evidence, but felt it would help prevent such.

There is also the side of price. $20 for a gallon of T6 vs ~$28 for VR-1.

Win-win???

Well, first impressions were, it seemed to run hotter. But, nixxed that quick because I retarded idle timing. Bumped up a couple/few degrees, and it runs cooler again.

I don't really have anything to report other than 2 observations:

1. Engine seems to turn over easier. Placebo? Don't think so as I didn't even think about that when swapping oil.

2. My rockers are FAR quieter. Yes, I need to adjust them, but the T6 made them virtually silent.

How in the world going from 50wt VR-1 to 40wt T6 did this happen? Don't know, don't care.

It works.

Caveat. I added 2 quarts of VR-1 to the T6 since reading T6 does not have anti-foaming agents added.

So, I'm not 100%, but the ratio I have of 10qts T6 with 2qts VR-1 seemed to really make a difference with valve noise.

[kenikh]

Like...woops, not Facebook.

[IMR-Merlin]

Are you running T1 or T6? T6 is 5w-40.

I run T1 in my work van during warmer months and T6 in it during the winter. I never have to plug it in even on -10F days. It's a Ford 6.0 diesel van and it's nver failed to start with that combo.

[turbobrat930]

Thats what both Neil Harvey at Performance Developments and Jim at JB Racing advised to use as a break in oil for my build. (the Non synthetic Rotella)

[Tippy]

are you running t1 or t6? T6 is 5w-40.



i run t1 in my work van during warmer months and t6 in it during the winter. I never have to plug it in even on -10f days. It's a ford 6.0 diesel van and it's nver failed to start with that combo.

t6

[Tippy]

^. Why does it not capitalize........argh.

[IMR-Merlin]

Where did you find T6 in 15W-40?

[Tippy]

It may be 5W. Less valve noise being less viscosity.

[IMR-Merlin]

I would keep an eye on oil leaks with the 5W, I have been thinking about running the T6, but have been leaning towards the RotellaT for first start up, then checking for leaks/weeping seals before I go with the lighter weight 5W

[Tippy]

I used Yamabond 5 (a.k.a. water) when I rebuilt my engine, so it already leaks like a sieve. I wouldn't know if it increased honestly.

[RarlyL8]

You should not have to worry about coking the BW/KKK turbo using Dino oil as long as you don't hot stop it often after a boost run and you religiously change the oil. Those turbos are quite robust.

[Tippy]

You should not have to worry about coking the BW/KKK turbo using Dino oil as long as you don't hot stop it often after a boost run and you religiously change the oil. Those turbos are quite robust.

Good to know. Figured synthetic could help in a few areas over dino and cheaper.

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by Tippy

Good to know. Figured synthetic could help in a few areas over dino and cheaper.

Probably would. Except the oil industry - and/or their marketing weenies - changed the meaning of "synthetic" about 10 years ago. So now the usage of the word "synthetic" as applied to motor oils no longer means what it used to - or what you probably think it does.

It could - but it could also vary from brand to brand, type to type, market to market (Euro Mobil 1 was full, or "real", synthetic years after US Mobil 1 wasn't any longer - but the labeling/marketing in the US didn't change).

Legislative & labeling requirements come into play too - you can label anything "synthetic" in the US/Canada, oil companies say it's a "marketing term" and thus completely meaningless. At least in that market (other places, like Europe, felt very differently, at least in 2007 when I last bothered to research it)..

For that matter, a manufacturer's oil formulation can change month to month. Just ask Charles Navarro or read as much of the mega oil thread as you can take - buying the bottle with the same label from the same place is no guarantee you'll get the same recipe today as you did yesterday.

You literally have no idea what you're getting.

You're a consumer. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.

Doesn't mean that oil labelled "synthetic" isn't - just that if you buy it in the US, it could contain a very large proportion of recycled dinosaur with an additive pack. Equally, oil not labeled "synthetic" could actually contain an additive pack that makes it more "synthetic" than oil that is.

Not that there's necessarily anything wrong with that. I've used Rotella T Heavy Duty for years and am very happy with it. That's "synthetic blend" T5. Buy it anywhere, cheap as chips, change it as frequently as makes you happy/suits your usage. My motor seems clean inside with little/no wear. Works for me...

As for hot shutdowns, you've only got to see your turbo/headers glowing cherry-red/orange respectively on the dyno once, you'll be mindful of it forever, LOL....

Some folks have seen/reported coking in turbos and/or oil galleries. That sure wouldn't make me happy - but I'm not sure that synthetic is the answer to the problem there. Don't know what is - none of my KKK's have done it.

I personally believe there's more wear involved letting a motor idle, especially when cold (that's when you have the least oil flow) than a few seconds of boost with any decent, regularly changed oil. But that's just a SWAG...

[Tippy]

^ nice summary. I did forget the faux "synthetic" formulas. Thanks for reminding.

[IMR-Merlin]

hows the leaks, Anything new with the 5W?

[Tippy]

I don't think so. Sounds crazy, but I think it leaks less. But, being that, that would be more than likely impossible, not sure.