Are we using the wrong spark plugs?
 

I think I just bought the wrong spark plugs? :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgFVN9iMnLg

Yes sir

Thanks for sharing. I will freely admit I have typically run Denso Iridium plugs in my cars. Clearly I need to rethink that approach.

Switch/ E85, done.. I hate changing sparkplugs so I will stick to platiniums for durability. But if problems arise need to rethink this.

platinums dont always work best. i went from a bosch platinum to a cheap copper in my truck. it not only ran better but gas mileage went up alomst 5mpg.

use either copper or the bosch CS (silver).

Seriously!? You are going to switch the plugs in your $100K cars based on YouTube dude?

LMAO

The thermal conductivity part is true.

I did a science experiment in middle school on spark plugs.

What I found is Bosch Platinums gave off a much weaker spark than good old copper Autolites. I did other plug types in between. I did this by using my lawnmower and a rig to hold the gaps for the spark to jump. I simply moved each plug further away until no spark.

I know it was not totally controlled variable wise since me pulling the rope could have changed the magnetos strength, but I did it several times as an average.

It was a drastic difference.

They are tuners by trade......not exactly a rookie IMO.

Has this not been known for a while?

boosted/ nitrous should use normal plugs

Uh, no.

So we should be using Iridium and Platinum?

Aren't the recommended W3DPO's platin?

My mechanic buddy uses NGK BR9IX - iridium - plugs in 930s. Waiting great back if he's noticed anything, at least in hindsight, in regard to different plug types.

You need Splitfire's or E3's, a quart of Slick 50, and a cool collar, then you're good to go!...............;)

On a more serious note, here's a good read:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/tech/Racing_Spark_Plugs_Performance_Applications.pdf

Slick 50! It's Teflonated!

You betcha!

And if it's Teflon, it's got to be good for anything!..........;)

Interesting...back around 98 when I had my 3.2 I switched to platinum plugs. Car ran like crap. My mechanic at that time had me switch back to copper. Car ran great plus the copper ones were a lot cheaper.

HAHA, what was that stuff that they took the oil pan off the car and sprayed water on the crank as the engine ran?

That'd top it off!

Wonder how much of that had to do with not being resistor plugs? For sure the spark would be weaker.

I've alternated between NGK B8ES or NGK racing (don't remember the number off the top of my noggin). Both are copper. That doesn't make me an expert any more than the rest of the commentators here....but it's what I use and I use what seems to work for me. Y'all are free to use what you want, but the science of heat transfer rates can't be disputed, unless you don't "do" science 'cause you failed it in high school and settled on a career as a librarian ;)

explain... " uh , no " gets nothing done SmileWavy


I have never heard of anyone recommend running platinum or iridium plugs in a forced induction engine that has been modified. I know you sure as hell don't do it with nitrous or a lot of boost..... whats the point? you going to put 100K on one of these cars without changing the plugs? "uh, no"

The thermal conductivity data is true, but the meaning is beyond YouTube dude.

I did the rounds talking to various individuals with practical knowledge in this area. All have had no issues with iridium plugs. Richard Clewett actually recommends NGK Iridiums for my Tec3r.

My guess on the video: Water cooled cars run WAY more boost than we do. 2 BAR isn't uncommon for a full tilt EVO with a big Garrett turbo. At that heat and pressure, thermal conductivity likely comes into play. At .8 - 1.2 BAR in a 930, not so much.

While pre-teen Tippy demonstrated the kind of scientific inquisitiveness that would guarantee him success in later life, his experimental technique was fatally flawed in this instance. As you bend the gaps open the electrode alignment (side to center) is messed up.

The W3DPO is a platinum plug.

It is also a copper plug.

Oooooooooo!

^ this is also what I discovered: Electrode, one material. Body, another.

Awesome. Love to provoke thought on this forum. Beats the heck out of reading about Zorks too!

You seem to have this bizarre hang up against Zorks - how / where did Zorks so wrong you I wonder? :confused: (did one get 'shoved' inadvertently / advertently 'somewhere' somehow sometime???) Hmmm.

Yeah, because I've had soooo many people driving behind me exclaim about my spark plugs "WOW! That is EARGASMIC!!!".

Oh, wait... that's exactly what was exclamated by folks following me @ der recent turboPALOOZ'er... about... my... Zork.

Things that make ya go hmmm... SmileWavy

:D

After 2 solid pages I still do not know what plugs should I use on my standard modified 1978 (Kokeln IC, Kokeln turbo 3.4 P/C, 7.5 compression and BB headers).

Are W3DO0 good or not?
And, how often to change them driving aggressively on the street but no track?

Just put a Zork on it and call it a day! :D

Oh, and be sure to post about it so Speedy Squirrel can have something good to read!

I removed the ground electrode. I used solid wire as the ground, not the ground strap itself. Opened, measured, and noted.

Amen brother, we're having fun now on yet another thread of plugs. Hey, not to rank on a young kids scientific inquisitiveness that's now reached our "adult" scrutiny; I seem to recall doing similar experiments when I was young and stupid but seeking knowledge. Now, I'm old and stupid but still seeking. I think I'll stay with copper, tried and true. I don't give a rats ass about longer plug life at the risk of detonation. Plugs are cheap, rebuilds are not.

Originally Posted by Tippy View Post
I did a science experiment in middle school on spark plugs.
I did this by using my lawnmower and a rig to hold the gaps for the spark to jump. I simply moved each plug further away until no spark.

So Cory, did you touch the plug tips, and/or wire leads, to any errr, ummm body parts to see what it felt like (when the teacher wasn't looking)?!?!

Ronnie, it was at home in the privacy of........er..........never mind

I never knew my pre-teen anecdotal experiment would get so much play...... :D

If you have the stock CD ignition and wires, W3DPO is for you.

This link to a previous post covers spark plugs in detail.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/837537-best-spark-plugs.html

All spark plugs have copper cores, and "copper plugs" actually have a Nickel plated center electrode.

The small center electrode of modern plugs run at the same temperature as previous plugs. They have the same heat ranges available. They present a smaller area to conduct heat into the electrode, and they have a smaller mass to cool down.

Actually, I think you would be hard pressed to cause pre-ignition with a spark plug in a 930. The exhaust valve is going to get you first when you push things out to the edge. Search on the late JBL930's posts for the worst pre-ignition I have ever seen in a 930.

One last though, a vehicle I helped develop
Is the Alfa 4C, 21.8 psi boost, 1.7L, 237HP, running NGK R 0.4mm center electrode.

It's all good. I just wanted to yank your chain and see how many emoticons and bold font vowels you would cough up!

Funny story... was pulling apart a blown up Boxster motor yesterday to start a rebuild and it had three Autolites and three Champions in it. People will use anything!!! :( These aren't Ford's or lawnmowers... one day people will understand. HaHa

^ That is some Space Coast engine-uity!