I got these parts based off of other peoples aftermarket exhaust set ups. Hoping it will work!

Oil Line - Oil Crossover Pipe to External Thermostat
Brand: German
Part #: 911-107-729-10-M127


Oil Crossover Pipe from Engine
Brand: OE Supplier
Part #: 911-107-739-10-INT

Yes those are the right ones. So the hard line crosses over in the back, on a typical exhaust SC you would have a exhaust crossover pipe there so that's why your car had the oil line in the front of the motor (back of the car by the bumper) -This crossover hard line is typically used with SSI style exhaust on NA engines. With OBX headers you will be fine as they don't have a connector crossover pipe like the stock exhaust (that would block the oil line placement) So you have the area free for the hard line to cross under the engine.

Here is a picture of the 2nd weird line with the flex piece that runs from the crossover to the T-stat.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1517281878.jpg

This is coming from a guy with an NA engine. Perhaps a turbo person will chime in.

FYI there is also a line that runs over the back top of the engine made by elephant racing.

I'm really glad you are fixing the line placement. I was the guy that commented on your last video regarding the lines. They were way way too low. If one got knocked loose or ripped off...bye bye 20k.

Duane,

The "weird" oil line was used on USA turbo's that used thermo reactors. The exhaust did not cross over in front of the engine so this line was used. I have this line on my '77 Turbo.

Hey guys! First start is today. I'm going to be using the attached maps for my turbo conversion. PLEASE let me know if everything looks okay, I'm not an expert tuner by any stretch.

Car: 1980SC, 3.0, 8:1 cr, EDIS, 44lb injectors.

Maps:

1- VE table
2- Igntion table
3- AFR table

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1517435069.jpg

Those should get you going, I might add a bit more to your AFR target table at idle. Make it closer to 14 or so just to get you going. Also, do not forget to sync the timing before trying to start otherwise you will be chasing your tail trying to get the thing to start.

And I'm sure you are aware, the ign map will need to be scaled properly for boost but for a first start, it should all work fine. And be aware that a lot more goes into starting the engine than just those 3 tables. There is an entire section for warm up enrichment and cranking fuel that needs to be addressed as well.

Here is the scaled-up ignition table. Does it still look okay? I ended up changing things a bit here.

- As for the other settings, I got a base configuration off a 1980SC running EDIS, so it should be close.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1517438846.jpg

That should be okay. I wouldn't really get into boost much until you get the engine properly tuned on the dyno. WHEN you get the engine running with the settings you received, throw a timing light on there and verify that your timing matches. You can be close enough to start but be off enough to cause damage under load. Don't want to see anything bad happen!

Can't wait for the next video update!

Today was a bummer. Couldn't get the starter to engage. It does not click, makes no noise, nothing. The ground strap was replaced today and we triple checked all other grounds.

- Also weird, the blower motor for the cabin only comes on if the key is in the off position. If the key is in run they blower shuts off.

Any input guys? Big red wire and large black wire are bolted on the top terminal of the starter. Big yellow wire connected to left spade connector, little yellow with blue stripe connected to the bottom.

Wouldn't surprise me if both were related and were a bad/intermittent ground somewhere. When two strange things happen at once the often have a single cause. Bad grounds often cause weird issues.

What do your temp and pressure gauges do on the dash? Are they pegged inverse of one another or are they both at their respective minimum positions?

You sure the 14-pin connector is plugged in near the CDI panel area?

Got the car started today! EDIS is awesome, the motor started in half a crank. I did the 20 minute 2k rpm break-in and drained the oil afterward. My local shop doesn't have 20w50 so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to fill it back up and go for that first drive.

- Smoked like hell, I've read this is normal and won't go away until I fumigated the neighborhood on a proper first drive to get the rings to seat. It had smooth sounding operation and healthy vacuum at 2k rpm.

Congrats!!!

Sweet! Congrats guys! Glad all the hard work paid off!

What was the issue with the starter?

The 14 pin connector was backwards lol.

-- Holy crap guys. This car is amazing. I've never driven anything like it. Those base maps are great, I drove about 100 miles today. Super steady idle, silky smooth through the RPMs. This engine and setup; it's just creamy out of the box. It just works.

Don't get me started on the sound. I'll post a video soon, but it's hard to do this car justice on camera.

Man, that is awesome. Everyone I know usually has at least 1 hiccup and gets frustrated. Guess the broken headstock took the place.

Have fun with the beast and let us know how that Holset works out for you.

HX35 is a good match IMO for the 3.0.

The HX35 actually spools pretty quickly. I've been trying to keep it in vacuum for the first few miles but it was difficult. It just builds boost so quickly.

With 8:1 CR and SC cams there are no issues with off-boost power. It's quick in general.

I also opted to not add a BOV, so there is a really cool turbo flutter when switching gears.

That is awesome to hear and I've been a big proponent of the Holset for awhile. I have an HX40 58mm 8 blade on the shelf.

I'd run a BOV because surge destroys the turbo. It's a load/unload cycle that eventually ruins the CHRA.

Turbosmart makes relatively cheap ones or eBay. Just put something on there! I have a mid-90's HKS that still works I've had since then.

One small issue when driving this morning. It was cold for San Diego (about 50-60F) and during warmup there was a significant amount of blue smoke at stop lights. Once up to temp this went away.

I have a theory. I think the gravity drain for the turbo doesn't work well when the oil is thick. I think some oil might be working its way on to the downpipe.

That only happens for the first 5-10 mins, after that there's no smoke at all.

Yeah, gravity feed is hit or miss. It's the only way I've had mine, and it's seemed to be ok. But, others had issues.

Turn VEAnalyze Live! on "easy", and slowly work in the boost areas.

Try to hit like .1 to .2 bar from lower RPM to redline, then .3 to .4 and so on until your all in it.

Keep a listen for knock of course!!!

Set the filters to not adjust any cells below 100kPa's so it'll adjust boost only.