I'm assuming everybody posting pictures of square jacks watched us struggle on Youtube? How else would you guys know I don't have a table lift.

Yes, I am watching with anxiety.

Having an audience is interesting. I'm always thinking how embarrassing it would be if we made some horrible mistake. What if this 15 thousand dollar engine explodes or catches on fire when we try to start it?

I even go back and watch my own videos to make sure we didn't forget anything.

If it blows up we can always LS swap it :rolleyes:

I think i paid $700 for my carrera intake. It came with the throttle body, fuel rails, intake elbow, fuel lines, etc. Its nice using the factory fuel rails, you can even use the factory fuel lines if they are in good shape. I used a Aeromotive rising rate fuel pressure regulator, but heard after the fact that the stock carrera fuel pressure regulator would work fine as a rising rate unit with the vacuum hose hooked up to it.
My motor looked exactly a factory 3.2, i even used the motor mount console from a 3.2 so i could use the 3.2 aluminum A/C compressor mount. I like speed, but i also like to be cool while going fast.

Hey guys! Updates and questions.

First is my solution to the gravity oil drain. If we had a TIG welder we would have used that, but the MIG didn't turn out too bad. We tried our best to make sure the fitting wasn't the lowest point on the motor. (It isn't, the exhaust sits lower.)

Next is some general questions on how things go back together. I don't remember anything about the stock wiring harness, I haven't got a clue where most of it goes. A lot of the connectors are damaged. Does anybody have a good wiring guide for a 1980 SC? -- Also, and kind of related, what goes in these threaded ports on the timing covers. (see photos) I have a hole on both covers. In my rebuild book the covers pictured don't have these holes.

Lastly, we want to get the car running with the bitz fuel injection- fuel only setup. This means we will be using the dizzy for some time. My distributor gear seems to have some pitting on two of the teeth. I have had my shortblock refreshed, so I don't want to put unneeded wear on the internal engine gear. Is there any way to replace just the dizzy gear?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515460926.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515460926.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515460926.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515460926.jpg

The left side hole is for the CIS cold start valve thermo switch, looks like this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515472508.jpg

The right side I believe is another thermo switch for the oxygen sensor system for the later model SC engines.

PartsKlassic (except the "c" at the end is actually a "k") sells the distributor gear if you want to replace it:

http://www.************.com/p-2297-distributor-drive-gear-counter-clockwise-911.aspx

The URL is blocked by the host, hence the astricks

The distributor drive gears andgenuine, so they all come from dealerships.
Search for "distributor gear" on Pelican, they offer them, as well as the tapered pin.

Hey guys!

Got a new dizzy drive gear. I also found the sensors that go in the timing covers. I made a turbo support bracket so our headers don't crack. Its made out of some pretty thick steel. Check the photos, will this be good enough or should I add additional support?

The Tial also came in along with the short air filter I was looking for.

-- Still need help with the stock wiring harness. Anybody got a diagram? Thanks!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515615756.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515615756.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515615756.jpg

Bracket looks good, you may want to triangulate that down to the lower stud as well.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515620636.jpg

I have the factory wiring diagrams in PDF form. PM me your email address and I can send them over to you.

Hey guys! Couple quick questions.

1. Which spark plugs should I use? 930 ones?
2. I have an MSD ignition and blaster coil, do I still need the factory plug wires or do I have more options now?

Looks good!

Anybody have an answer for me?

1. Which spark plugs should I use? 930 ones?
2. I have an MSD ignition and blaster coil, do I still need the factory plug wires or do I have more options now?

1. I would use late-SC plugs but a start with a heat range 1 colder than stock as a good starting point. Something like an "8" on the NGK scale. Also remember to gap the plugs properly.

2. Unless you're looking for aesthetics, I would use the factory plug wires. There are numerous other options for plug wires if you desire. Clewett Engineering makes some nice wires for a good price.

Also, watched your latest video and have 1 comment. You need to mount your wideband sensor post-turbo as the Innovate does not have back pressure compensation. Without that feature, a wideband sensor pre-turbo will read more rich on the rich side, and more lean on the lean side. Narrowband sensors are not affected by this and can be mounted pre-turbo.

Hey guys. Thanks for the help so far, unfortunately, the biggest headache of this entire ordeal has been the distributor ignition.

I have a new idea. Can I keep the Bitz MS1 and just run MegaJolt with the Ford EDIS I picked up a few weeks ago? MegaJolt seems pretty straightforward and it's very inexpensive.

I did some digging and asked around and managed to get a few ignition maps to get the car started. Both were from members here, Tippy and Trond I believe. The one with boost is from a 3.2 the less detailed one is from a 3.0

- I could be wrong, but I think it would be easiest to just wire up the Tbitz kit how it was intended (Fuel Only) ... and then simply add Megajolt in place of the dizzy.

I understand that I can get the MS2 daughterboard which supports EDIS but the wiring for this seems a bit more complicated and that isn't exactly a strength of mine.

Whatever system I end up using I've already decided to ditch the dizzy. I bought the 36-1 crank pulley from Goingsuperfast and I have all the other EDIS stuff.

What are your thoughts on megajolt vs ms2? Id also like to hear your opinion on the 3.2 timing. Apparently is shouldn't be too far off from the 3.0 timing.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1516159817.jpg

The one thing I don't know off my head is if you can split the 36-1 trigger to both the MegaSquirt ECU and the MegaJolt.

Ideally, you'd hook the EDIS to the MS ECU the traditional way, and even better yet, ditch the EDIS module, and let the MS ECU drive the EDIS coilpack directly.

This requires a little work inside the MS box to accomplish direct coil driving capability. This is documented online.

I'd be very cautious with that 3.2 turbo ignition map...those numbers seem quite high...the 168kPa row is what my engine was operating at 101kPa when it was naturally aspirated.

Is yours dyno tuned? How do you know they are high? Where did you get your timing numbers from?

The map posted is mine, and I used a combination of factory 3.2 numbers from Steve Wong's website, Sal's personal tune numbers (supplier of MAF conversions for 3.2's), Chris from TK on peak numbers for 1 bar, and GJF.

I tore the motor down and no signs of detonation on the rod bearings, rings were fine, none broken, but I did see some witness marks on the bores like there may have been detonation. But, and a HUGE BUT, I left the WG line off one time and had hammered it twice hitting a tad over 2 bar of boost on accident. This is more than likely when the witness marks occurred on the cylinder walls on a couple cylinders.

Those are from my ignition map when it was dyno tuned NA a while back...we saw no increase in power going beyond those numbers at WOT. I don't know what your compression is or whether you are twin plug or not, mine is 9.5:1 single plug...