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ignac002's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Netherland
Posts: 35
Need help with no start issue.

After return my car from EFI to CIS, I had some start issue.
I change it because I’m planning to sell the car, car was running good before I convert it to EFI.
I Keep all the CIS part in a plastic container with deck in my house for 8-9 years.
Car will not start and I did check all the things I think I need to check.
Maybe I overlook something.

What I did check (first fuel delivery and than ignition issue) after NO START:

FUEL:
1. Check if pomps are working and if is enough fuel in the tank.
2. I have fuel and good fuel pressure (2.1-bar) at the WUR.
3. Remove supply line going to WUR and get a the among 210cc fuel in 1 min.
4. Remove supply line going to injector 4 and get 45ml. I did check only nr. 4.

IGNITION after each change I try to start:
1. Change all spark plugs, distributorcap, rotor.
2. Measure the ohm of each sparkplugs wire and the are good.
3. Check if I get spark at the sparkplug 1 en 4 , and I get spark.
4. Measure the ohm of CDI-unit, it was good.
5. Measure the wire from CDI—unit to coil (blaster II)- OK
6. Measure the green wire from Dizzy to CDI-unit. OK
7. CDI unit is whining with ignition on.
8. Distributor rotate 180 degrees.
9. Disconnect tachometer.

After all this NO START.

What I notice is that I get spark at sparkplugs and CDI is whining, but I’m not getting the 400V ac at the white wire at the CDI-unit when cranking???
Do you think the CDU-unit is gone, but why I get spark and why is unit whining????

Tell me what else I need to check.

Old 04-09-2017, 11:38 AM
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If you are getting fuel, and spark, then perhaps you are not getting the spark at the correct time?

You say you converted back from EFI. Did that involve installing the distributor? Did you check that you don't have it 360 degrees out on timing or something?

I would expect even if you were that far out on timing you'd at least get some banging and coughing (in fact I know from experience lol) did you get that? Or nothing at all?

Smell fuel at the exhaust?

If the spark is coming at the right time, maybe you aren't really getting fuel. How did you test the fuel at the injector? By holding down the airflow plate? If not, perhaps the switch at the airflow meter is not working or the airflow plate is not deflecting for some reason (like giant intake leak).
Old 04-09-2017, 05:06 PM
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Is your airplate switch working - the one behind the venturi plate. Is that circuit OK. You haven't said how you did the fuel pump tests. key on, pull the plug and should hear pumps.
Re distributor. If you had to refit, when engine at Z1 (TDC #1) the mark on the rotor should line up (approx) with the small mark on the distributor housing. As Flightlead says, if you refit the distributor you could have this mark (or Z1) wrong.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 04-09-2017, 05:15 PM
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I forgot to tell you guys I hook up a timing light (Equus 3568) on sparkplug wire no.1 to see if it blink while cranking and it doesn’t blink, but I get spark on the plugs,
Maybe is the spark to weak???
Now I will check the T-light on the other car to if it working correctly.

flightlead404:
I don’t know if I get the spark at the correct time, so I hook up a timing light, but I’m not getting any blink from the T-light.

1. Yes I did reinstall the distributor again on the car, and I line up the pully at Z1 (TDC #1) and the mark on the rotor approx with the small mark on the distributor housing and did rotate the rotor twice 180 degree, each time a try to start.
2. I’m not get any banging and coughing.
3. Yes I get smell of fuel at the exhaust.
4. Fuel test is done by disconnect the wire at the airflow meter, and by the injector by cranking the engine.
5. If I press the airflow plate down, fuel pumps will work.

Alan L:
1. See your above anwers.

Regards
Old 04-09-2017, 11:42 PM
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You should not have to crank engine for fuel flow after AFM wire disconnected. Just depress airplate. So still not sure if that bit is exactly right.
But no spark at timing light is an issue. Battery good?
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 04-10-2017, 12:12 AM
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Alan:

Battery is good, engine is cranking very strong.
I will double check timing light today on a other car.
Fuel was testing by cranking the engine and then by pressing the metering plate down.

regards.

EFI was done by my self 8 year ago. no wire was cut.

Old 04-10-2017, 01:39 AM
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verify wires going to plugs. it is very easy to get the wires crossed.
verify rotor is pointing to #1 plug wire with engine at TDC.
pull plug wire and plug and connect plug to wires and ground plug, the start to test for spark.
make sure none of the wires on the plug going to the CD unit backed out when you plugged it in. I have seen it happen.

did you notice if the plunger moved up and down freely in the fuel head. they can get stuck.
another test for this is with the FP's on and engine off, lightly touch the sensor plate. if there is ANY free movement then the plunger could be stuck.

CSV. did you connect all the wiring for the CSV.
it gets power from the starter when starting and it gets ground thru the thermo time switch.
do you have the correct connector on the CSV.

have someone crank it while you push down the sensor plate to get it going.

if you get a backfire the dist is 180 out.
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86 930 94kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
01 suburban 330K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
RACE CAR:: sold
Old 04-10-2017, 03:43 AM
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Hello

I came home today to check the timing light on another car.
Timing light work, but when the engine is running.
I unplugged a wire so the engine wil not start.
The timing will not work when cranking the engine.
So timing light is good and that is reason why IT not blink on the Porsche.

T77911S.
Read above , most thing you told me I did.
But I Will dobble check All wire connection again. And will try to push the plate down why cranking to see what happens.

Regard
Old 04-10-2017, 10:17 AM
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what did you unplug to check the timing light.

best check is a sparkplug on a plug wire and ground it
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86 930 94kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
01 suburban 330K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
RACE CAR:: sold
Old 04-11-2017, 03:42 AM
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Did you verify your rotor timing is set on Z1? And not Z4? Both valves on #1 should be slack when rotor at #1 , and #4I just depressing (by about 1.5mm).
Hope I got that right :-)
But it sounds like you are getting no timing light at any point - which suggests a problem with the light. You should be able to time it approx right just off the rotor/Z1 marks - and then you set the final timing with the light. You should be able to fire it up withoutinitially having to use timing light. 5-10 deg out will still let it fire, just not perfectly.
Alan

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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 04-11-2017, 02:06 PM
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