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Quote:
Originally Posted by flightlead404 View Post
I've been slowly tinkering with a 3D model of a replacement circular relay base that will accept standard "fast-on" style crimp connectors and allow a standard automotive 4 or 5 terminal relay to be used and still fit under the front relay cover.

Job and life have got in the way unfortunately, but I'll get it done soon.
PelicanParts should hopefully step up and have the fuse /relay box manufactured .

Old 03-31-2018, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flightlead404 View Post
I've been slowly tinkering with a 3D model of a replacement circular relay base that will accept standard "fast-on" style crimp connectors and allow a standard automotive 4 or 5 terminal relay to be used and still fit under the front relay cover.

Job and life have got in the way unfortunately, but I'll get it done soon.
this will be a cool part fix. looking forward to seeing it
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Old 03-31-2018, 05:26 PM
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Replaced several red relays that would crap out after a very short time. I replaced them with black relays and have been fine up to this point but an upgraded relay board is in the near future. I'd rather just replace the whole thing but if there is a better option without it looking rigged up I'm all ears.
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Old 04-01-2018, 08:25 PM
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I had to replace failed new red relays with black ones and have not had a problem since. I sure was having issues finding the problem until I realized the new red relays i bought to put in the correct place were junk.
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 04-02-2018, 09:25 AM
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Also replaced the failing red relays with black. No problems since.
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Old 04-03-2018, 05:03 AM
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Whats the difference between the red & black round relay. I read somewhere that the red is for higher load applications and Im not sure if they said that the red had a diode . When I bought my car in 08 it had all red relays made in Germany . Those red relay made in Germany failed only once , & its the relay for the fan located in the front of the car in the luggage compartment to cool the front condenser. Replaced the relay ( wuttrin Chinese made ) I bought from our sponsors so far Ive replaced 2-3x alrdy .
Old 04-03-2018, 04:12 PM
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The only difference is the red relays have a little diode soldered in between two of the terminals.
Diodes let current flow through them in one direction only. I don't know what it's for in this application. I guess it helps protect the fuel pump motors in some way.
Old 04-03-2018, 04:23 PM
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I don't have my total wiring diagrams - but this one shows the FP relays and the airplate relay. They all show diodes.
Alan
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Old 04-03-2018, 04:38 PM
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Probably its the diode's that fail in the Chine made Wuttrin relay. The diode's probably are of poor quality. Probably the footing / banana contacts are of poor quality as well ,because when you insert them ,they're slighly loose thats why they heat up because of poor contacts .The Chinese made relay before I inserted them I slightly expanded the footings using a jewellers screw driver so that they fit snugly to the sockets. But still after a long trip of 6 hours the case melted.
Old 04-03-2018, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
The only difference is the red relays have a little diode soldered in between two of the terminals.
Diodes let current flow through them in one direction only. I don't know what it's for in this application. I guess it helps protect the fuel pump motors in some way.
Its a "flyback diode" and prevents arcing on the contacts due to current induced when the magnetic field of the relay collapses
Old 04-04-2018, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flightlead404 View Post
I've been slowly tinkering with a 3D model of a replacement circular relay base that will accept standard "fast-on" style crimp connectors and allow a standard automotive 4 or 5 terminal relay to be used and still fit under the front relay cover.

Job and life have got in the way unfortunately, but I'll get it done soon.
I am interested in this as I have started to have issues with my old relays
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76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 04-08-2018, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RarlyL8 View Post
That's what we did with the delay relay in the engine compartment. Plan to do that with the fuel pumps when I get time. The new relay plugs into a matching square base so you replace the OEM round bases with square ones, wire it up, plug in the relays.
When do you think you might have these up and ready
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" Porsche there is no substitute" I always liked that saying. Air cooled is the only way to go!
76 911 C.R.A.P. Gruppe #2 BIG time TURBO C.R.A.P. Bitz EFI/EDIS Now MegaSquirt 3
76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 04-08-2018, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RarlyL8 View Post
Yes there have been a few threads on the subject. More Chinese garbage allowed to destroy the market for quality items with no consequence. Last I saw folks were buying up old used ones which is pretty sad. I have begun replacing mine with conventional new ones when I have the time. Takes more effort to re-wire but not much choice until a better option for OEM comes along.
There are no other options out there even the factory replacement is made in china
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" Porsche there is no substitute" I always liked that saying. Air cooled is the only way to go!
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76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 04-08-2018, 05:07 PM
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When do you think you might have these up and ready
Well I have a few plates spinning ATM. Work, a mum recently diagnosed with dementia, an engine to top overhaul, Porsche engine partial rebuild etc. Oh, and my Alexa controlled blinds. Since I'm not having relay issues this one is not a top priority for me. I'm happy to share my .STL prototype however.

Old 04-08-2018, 06:33 PM
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