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Converted to COPs, how to use timing light?

As part of my 930 FrankenCIS on steroids I've converted to COPs.

Now I have the car starting and idling reliably I need to fix my #1 tooth angle (I'm using a 60-2 flywheel).

I purchased an adapter from Amazon, which of course is useless lol

Anyone got any ideas on how to get a timing light to work?

I'm using in a wasted spark setup so I'll actually connect on #4 since it's easier to get to than #1 under my intercooler. I can't imagine any issues with that, is there anything I've missed?

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'86 no-sunroof 930 coupe: Emissions removed, FrankenCIS controlling eWUR, lambda, COP ignition. Tial f46P 1.0 bar spring, SC cams, K-27/29, lightweight clutch, TK Longneck intercooler, RarlyL8 headers and dual-outlet hooligan
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Old 05-04-2019, 03:52 PM
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use a old spark plug wire... put plug end on plug, and use a piece of 1/4 rod/or bolt or something for COP to wire... Philip
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Old 05-04-2019, 05:49 PM
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I have Denso COP set up on one of my cars (not a Porsche) with a Haltech ECU and factory cam angle sensor. All I do is hook up the timing light connector that you would normally put on the spark plug lead to to wires coming out of the COP connector. Of course you still have to supply power/earth to the timing light for it to function. Strobes perfectly and works a treat.
Old 05-04-2019, 05:55 PM
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Most timing lights work on logical level also. With VAG coils and my noname timing lights it picks up logical signal without any issue.
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:40 PM
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I'll try it on the signal wires first, but these are "smart coils" with the igniter in them so the signals are logic level.

Its a Sears timing light from, whew, early 80's. Back when Sears had decent tools.
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'86 no-sunroof 930 coupe: Emissions removed, FrankenCIS controlling eWUR, lambda, COP ignition. Tial f46P 1.0 bar spring, SC cams, K-27/29, lightweight clutch, TK Longneck intercooler, RarlyL8 headers and dual-outlet hooligan
'14 Jaguar XK-R: Bullet proof windscreen, rotating number plates (valid all European countries), martini mixer, whatever you do don't press this red button!
Old 05-05-2019, 05:15 AM
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I'm starting to wish I would've just gone COP from the jump but wanted to stray away from added complexity with getting it started on the standalone.

Did you convert for the hell of it or were you getting spark blow-out? This'll be my second time now upping the boost and getting some break up at the top of the pull above 6,000. Solved the misfire last time by switching to different plugs and closing up the gap but not sure how much tighter I'd like to go...
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Old 05-05-2019, 04:18 PM
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I'm having a little difficulty visualizing your setup. Are you crank-trigger or is the trigger wheel in the ignition distributor?

All the wasted spark setups I've done have been crank-trigger so you set the timing (ignition map) through a USB interface, computer, etc.

You won't be able to set the timing with a regular timing light because of the wasted spark (extra fire). It'd have to be for a 12 cylinder car or something to be able to see it.
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Old 05-05-2019, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadewombat View Post
I'm having a little difficulty visualizing your setup. Are you crank-trigger or is the trigger wheel in the ignition distributor?

All the wasted spark setups I've done have been crank-trigger so you set the timing (ignition map) through a USB interface, computer, etc.

You won't be able to set the timing with a regular timing light because of the wasted spark (extra fire). It'd have to be for a 12 cylinder car or something to be able to see it.
Sounds like no distributor/cam sync, just a crank/speed reference from flywheel like 964 and 993 to use waste spark. The fact that there is an extra flash from another cylinder doesn't matter because that cylinder is 180 degree out cam timing wise but crank position is the same. You'll just get a double speed flash on your mark (2 flashes every 2 crank rotations, instead of 1 flash every 2 crank rotations) if I'm not mistaken.

I usually use an inline spark checker and just put the inductive clamp around that for COP vehicles.
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"Frankenstein" - 964 C4 chassis/driveline - 993 widebody/Speedster look - VEMS standalone - twin plug high compression 3.6L N/A engine - 945cc cc/min injectors - Bosch 044 pump - GT45 @ 1bar/14psi - non intercooled/wingless - E85 fuel - turbo inlet water meth inj. - 3.5" exhaust - GT3RS clutch + LWFW
Old 05-05-2019, 05:18 PM
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Just use an extender spark plug cable from the plug to the COP and hook your timing light on the extender cable.

regards,
al
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Old 05-05-2019, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 993Speedster View Post
Did you convert for the hell of it or were you getting spark blow-out?
I converted because I'm using a MicroSquirt with FrankenCIS firmware to provide a fueling trim function to help with my (mild) modifications rather than the traditional Rube Goldberg setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raceboy View Post
Most timing lights work on logical level also. With VAG coils and my noname timing lights it picks up logical signal without any issue.
Turns out even if I could pick up the logic the timing is not exact and drifts as RPM increases, I'll make an adapter cable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jadewombat View Post
I'm having a little difficulty visualizing your setup. Are you crank-trigger or is the trigger wheel in the ignition distributor?
Its a crank trigger, my flywheel was cut to 60-2 and using the stock 993 CPS.

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'86 no-sunroof 930 coupe: Emissions removed, FrankenCIS controlling eWUR, lambda, COP ignition. Tial f46P 1.0 bar spring, SC cams, K-27/29, lightweight clutch, TK Longneck intercooler, RarlyL8 headers and dual-outlet hooligan
'14 Jaguar XK-R: Bullet proof windscreen, rotating number plates (valid all European countries), martini mixer, whatever you do don't press this red button!
Old 05-06-2019, 11:05 AM
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