Fuel injectors '82 911sc

[premdes]

Greeting members,
I'm cleaning out the engine compartment spraying and scrubbing dust and oil. I noticed some of fuel injectors move up a bit. White some don't move at all. I also was able to completely pull out #2 and it doesn't seem to have a boot or gasket around it.
Your input is greatly appreciated. I'm not sure if slight movement is ok or not.

Thank you
Amir

[otto_kretschmer]

I'm assuming this is a CIS system;

my injectors (76 CIS) wiggle a little. Its easy to inspect and change the rubber grommets.

[Walt Fricke]

The injectors fit into a plastic insert. The plastic insert fits into the aluminum intake runner. The injector O ring is a fat one, and is what holds the injector in place. The CIS injectors do not squirt with the force the EFI or MFI injectors do, so don't need much to counteract the ejection pressure. The plastic insert has a flatish O ring, like a wide rubber band. But it is normal for the injector to wiggle. That doesn't indicate that there isn't a good seal.

If concerned that there might be an air leak, you can squirt brake or carb cleaner into the recess around the injector with the engine running. If the idle speed picks up, you have a leak. If not, not.

[premdes]

Thank you folks. Took out all injectors. Wire wheel cleaned them ( oily deposits). Blew air thru them reinstalled with new o rings. 4 and 5 sleeves came right out so I put new seal and sleeves there also.
Did a valve adjustment, new belt, new plugs, rotor, cap. Reassembled everything. Now car won't start.. Cranks, nada.
Does it have anything to do with the 30 extra nuts and bolts I ended up with? Jk

Some ideas are greatly appreciated. Need to start going down a proven checklist.

Thanks again for reading my post and making suggestions,

[otto_kretschmer]

you will have to do the routine:

check for spark

check the plunger on the fuel distributor to make sure its not stuck

check the injectors are flowing properly, I'd just check a couple at first

verify you got the distributor wired to the right plugs

one wire off and it won't work

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by premdes

Thank you folks. Took out all injectors. Wire wheel cleaned them ( oily deposits). Blew air thru them reinstalled with new o rings. 4 and 5 sleeves came right out so I put new seal and sleeves there also.
Did a valve adjustment, new belt, new plugs, rotor, cap. Reassembled everything. Now car won't start.. Cranks, nada.
Does it have anything to do with the 30 extra nuts and bolts I ended up with? Jk

Some ideas are greatly appreciated. Need to start going down a proven checklist.

Thanks again for reading my post and making suggestions,

Amir,

Hook up an inductive timing light and crank the engine. You should see strong ignition signals. Next, and this what I think is your problem, excessive unmetered air. It would only take less than a minute to verify or confirm by using pressurize air/smoke injected into the system. Keep us posted.

Tony

[strictly]

Originally Posted by premdes

Thank you folks. Took out all injectors. Wire wheel cleaned them ( oily deposits). Blew air thru them reinstalled with new o rings. 4 and 5 sleeves came right out so I put new seal and sleeves there also.
Did a valve adjustment, new belt, new plugs, rotor, cap. Reassembled everything. Now car won't start.. Cranks, nada.
Does it have anything to do with the 30 extra nuts and bolts I ended up with? Jk

Some ideas are greatly appreciated. Need to start going down a proven checklist.

Thanks again for reading my post and making suggestions,

the inserts in the manifolds have orings also, so you would have needed an inset oring AND an injector o-ring.

That on its own however would not make the car not start, you just have to work it through. Ignition then fuel. A quick test for fuel is with the ignition on if you push up on the air meter flap, the injectors will spray fuel, if so, then chase a no spark issue. Check that the red wire on the cdi unit has 12v, and the firing order is right.

[Dave Kost]

Make sure the big peanut looking rubber boot is on tight. It's the foot long rubber part the directs the air from throttle butterfly to metering plate.