Crankshaft seisure?? New rebuild!

[snowman]

Hope to hear from biggtbiggt to see if the problem went away.

I don't doubt the case could be the cause, but its always to KNOW the real answer without speculation. I worked on things for 30 plus years that you could not see, feel or touch, or even test for directly. They were much more expensive than Porsche stuff and took like 6 weeks to a year to make changes to things to. So I got real good at trouble shooting them. But even with the most simple things, things that went wrong the same way a lot, there were still suprizes in store if you look at enough of them. I think its fun to try to check as thourough as possible before tearing down things.

[john walker's workshop]

is it a secret? space ships?

[snowman]

I don't want to have to shoot you

[Wayne 962]

Sounds like satellites or something like that. I wonder what it's like to work on those?

-Wayne

[snowman]

The mains pictured here are were removed from a 2.2 with low miles. The reason for the teardown was unrelated to the mains and everything turned ok.

The bearings show little wear and would go for at least 200,000 miles at this rate.
note the color on the left isn't copper, but something in the film or whatever. The clearences were all well withing spec as well as taper, roundness, line bore. They were once shiney but have tarnished due to sitting around for a couple of years.

I do not think they look a whole lot differen't than the other bearings shown earlier.

[biggtbiggt]

I put the case halves together 2 days ago and the crank will turnover with little resistance now! I just finished putting the pistons into the cylinders and hopfully will get them on the block tommorow. I had som seeping from the base of the chain housings when I took this apart and am concerned that it could possibly turn into a leak?? Should the chain housing gaskets be coated with curil-t or something??

Thanks for all the advice!

BTW: I knew this engine was not hydraulic locking because it was tight before I even had the pistons and cylinders bolted on!

[snowman]

Yeh I have had more than some seeping from all the gaskets. I do not in general beleive you should put silicone on gaskets. but with the 911 experience I have had I am going to do it anyway. I am siliconing all the gaskets except the valve covers, which I am using silicone gaskets to start with. A friend of mine who is in the business of doing 911s full time is using 100 percent silicone. Case halves and everything. I did not go along with the case halves but I am using silicone for everything else. I really would like to hear more from others on this.

[Wayne 962]

Jerry Woods specifically recommends using *any* silicone, as he says it will break down when it comes in contact with the oil and the addtivies in oil (or the byproducts from combustion). I'm not 100% sure on this, but the only place I recommend the silicone is on the outer case through-bolt o-rings. I use the black silicone there so it doesn't show. On internal gaskets, I think that Curil-T or the Loctite 574 is a much better way to go than a silicone-based sealant.

-Wayne

[snowman]

Silicone is ok. The OEMs like Gm arae using it inplace of gaskets. The problems with silicone are:
1. If a chunk breaks off it will plug up almost anything.
2. It supposidly will screw up the bond the gasket is supposed to make with the metal. I agree here but it still SEALS ok as far as I am concerned.. It don't leak. This is counter to what the gasket people like to say. If in doubt don't use the gasket, just use the silicone.

[Wayne 962]

Originally posted by snowman
If in doubt don't use the gasket, just use the silicone.

This is just plain bad advice left over coming from the Chevy world.

-Wayne

[ChrisBennet]

Wayne,
First the sugar : I've been reading the new book a little at a time and I am impressed with how well even the little things were done. Like the colored picture/border across the top of the pages and the chapter marks along the side of the pages.
I'm an anti-silicone bigot. I don't like the idea of silicone "boogers" plugging my oil squirters. The use of silicone on O-rings seems counter to how I thought an O-ring should work. O-rings are supposed to be able to move around to do their job right? I've never had a motor leak from the through bolts but I've only done a few.
That said, smarter more experienced people than myself do use silicone - Dow Corning 730 is a silicone.
-Chris

[TimT]

Chris,

I havent seen Waynes book yet, but I dont imagine he would recommend using silicone sealant for o-rings. Most books recommend using Dow 111 (silicone paste or grease) on the o-rings, I used to use the 111, now I use motor oil.

I use a small teeny bead of Dow 730 around the case.

[ChrisBennet]

Originally posted by TimT
Chris,

I havent seen Waynes book yet, but I dont imagine he would recommend using silicone sealant for o-rings.

Neither did I.
Wayne recommends RTV for the case through bolts O-rings. I just put them in a cutoff paper cup with some oil in it before I put them on.
-Chris

[john walker's workshop]

'bout time this thread evolved.

[snowman]

I have to agree with Tim and Chris on the o rings. I Do NOT use RTV on any o ring. I only use it on the gaskets for the chain housings and the oil screen. YOu ain't supposed to need it But I have seen this proven wrong on the last engine I rebuilt.

[Wayne 962]

To each their own, I just recommend what I know works (from all of the experts polled for the book)...

-Wayne

[snowman]

I bought my own Vitron orings for the case bolts. Seem to work a lot better than the ones supplied by Victor R. I used std 8x2 mm Vitron rings, at about $0.25 ea. Had to buy 500 to get the price.

[Wayne 962]

It's actually "Viton" not "Vitron."

http://www.dupont-dow.com/Products/Viton/viton.asp

-Wayne

[snowman]

Just fired my secretary.

[FrinkFrog]

Wow.