Chain Tensioner Float

[Rosco_NZ]

So we’re up to sorting out the chain tensioners for installation .. was test fitting parts today and I’m not sure about a few things …
1. Carrera pressure fed tensioner piston seems to sit 1/2 off the edge of the tensioner foot… one tensioner has a relief cut on the mount foot to enable it to sit tighter against the new chain boxes … they seem to have an insert in there which makes the uncut tensioner stand-off a bit far.
2. Using Supertech idler arms .. there seems to be a lot of end float .. I get the idler needs to be able to move to align neutrally with the chain once chain parallel set but we’re taking 4-5mm. Is the spacing the same for all tensioners?
3. Carrera tensioners are not so easy take take apart to do the Jerry Woods mod. The circlip is tricky to get off … but there’s not really any parts to wear out, just bleed valves to get blocked. One piston did not seem to bleed any oil through the piston air bleed .. anyone have experience with these blocking ?? Some evidence of silicon being used in the engine .. blocked cam spray bars. Anyone have a technique to clean them?
Love to hear your intel!! Shoot!!

[targa72e]

The bleed on the end of the main piston is pressed in. It can be pressed out cleaned and reinstalled. It has a treaded body to allow air to escape.



More info in thread below.

Carrera tensioner questions


john

[Trackrash]

Yes, check John's link above. Carrera tensioner questions
However, I will give you a summery.

If you in any way disturb either of the check valves, you may as well throw the tensioner away.

Without dissembling the tensoner, fill it with oil and use a c-clamp to compress it. Do this a couple of times. If it is not spongy and can only be compressed slowly with the clamp you are probably good to go.

There is no way, I know of to remove the upper check valve and re-install it so that it functions as originally intended. There is another check valve under the plunger that can be removed and in theory cleaned, that would be the one that would cause trouble, IMO. Yes, you can use an appropriate drift and drive out the top "bolt" with the bleed hole, but I'm not sure that is really necessary.

On my motor there was no room to install the Jerry Woods mod.

Yes, the side slop on the idler gear is annoying. I have not seen a spec for that. I have one that is a little loose and rattles at times.

[Rosco_NZ]

Rounding out this thread … the tensioner which would not bleed down was in fact sludged up .. it cleaned up nicely once the push fit bleed was removed. I had the end resurfaced .. it is hardened steel and it came up nicely.

I had a relief cut into the body of the tensioner to accommodate the interference in the chain housing. It located nicely once this was done .. but was amazed someone installed the tensioner kit with only half the piston end acting on the tensioner arm. Sorted now. But makes me realise how much care is required to do an engine build properly .. and how much potential for shortcuts for the less scrupulous. Really glad I assembled my own engine.

I suspect the pressure exerted in the vice exceeds max pressure the oil pump would put out. Be careful not to blow out the check valves.