I Need to Make My Engine a Little More Streetable. 365hp 3.6

[Benman]

Sounds like he's ditched the Motronic and has PMOs and stand-alone ignition. Unless that ignition is is knock-sensing (and adjusting timing to compensate) capable, then yeah I'd say 11.5 might be a bit much for pump gas


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[stanglife]

When people say - too much for pump gas. Doesn't that need to be called out? Here in FL, we have 93 but it's super hot.

[GG Allin]

Originally Posted by stanglife

When people say - too much for pump gas. Doesn't that need to be called out? Here in FL, we have 93 but it's super hot.

Carburetors and no engine management, 93 is certainly not enough.

I have the motor out and I've started taking it apart. Right now the plan is to leave the long block alone and focus on the heads. A few of them had small puddles of oil resting on the valves.



This would explain the smoke on start up and the oil consumption. I've since bought a 3.2 case and plan to build a 3.8 long block with a low enough comp ratio to run 93. I think leaving my current long block alone is best for resale purposes, it is a fantastic motor.

Question right now is regarding the cam tool I need to work with this: I can't see any way that the one I bought "for 3.2" engine would work with this.

[rdimarco]

You need the old style crows foot & cam holder. William Knight configured my build: 10.5 CR, twin plug. Runs on 93 octane. Cams matter, mine are not quite as aggressive as your orig 120/104. I'm running Single throttle body w/ EFI. I just did what William recommend and I'm very happy with the result.

[GG Allin]

Anyone venture to guess what head studs these are? I'll need a torque spec for reassembly.

[GG Allin]

Heads got sent out to Craig in Grand Rapids to get freshened up. The #1 cylinder exhaust valve seemed to not be closing fully. Rings on piston #1 are fine. Wasn't really sure exactly what I had here but it appears to be modified 964 cylinders, JE pistons and GT3 rods.

[GG Allin]

[GG Allin]

After much thought I've just decided to do this once and done. Swapping for new pistons and actually going to swap internals to a new case with a number that better matches the chassis. This case appears to have some machining and will at some point become a spare engine. Probably going to reuse everything but the main bearings. Possibly new head studs too. Unless I can easily remove those.

[mikedsilva]

so your current case has had the spigots enlarged so you can use the 964 cylinders?
That's pretty cool.

I'd have no hesitation using that case.

[GG Allin]

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

so your current case has had the spigots enlarged so you can use the 964 cylinders?
That's pretty cool.

I'd have no hesitation using that case.

It did, looks like they were opened up by about 1mm. The new case will need the same. I think I've found someone local to do it. The old case will be built as a spare at some point. There is nothing wrong with it. The stock 964 cylinders were modified to mount on the 3.2 stud spacing.

The rods appear to be Pauter. Not certain of the length. So that leaves me wondering what info needs to be provided to spec new pistons. I have the old pistons in hand and I'll have head cc info when I get them back. I'd like to go as high as I can with the compression ratio that twin plugs and 93 octane will allow. 10:1, 10.25 - 10.5??

This is the bottom of one piston, not sure what 101P means.

Just learning here, trying not to make any mi$takes.

[LJ851]

^ Since that number is forged into the piston it is most likely the part number of that particular forging blank that various pistons are machined from.

[HaroldMHedge]

Originally Posted by GG Allin

Anyone venture to guess what head studs these are? I'll need a torque spec for reassembly.

Looking at the nuts, I'm thinking of Supertec's cylinder head stud kit.
Porsche Supertec Performance Cylinder Head Stud Kit

Supertec 10-mm x 1.25 cylinder head stud torque spec...... post 5.

Originally Posted by Henry Schmidt

SUPERTEC PERFORMANCE HEAD STUD KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1) USE BLUE LOCTITE ON CASE END (10 x 1.50)

2) WE SUPPLY SUPERTEC THREAD LUBE WITH EACH KIT BUT YOU CAN USE LIGHT
WEIGHT MOTOR OIL OR ANTI SEIZE ON CYLINDER HEAD END

3) CLEAN CASE THREADS COMPLETELY
We recommend a thread forming tap (1.50x10 PD-6 6-N) for this application

4) TO INSTALL STUDS, DOUBLE NUT WITH THE GOLD NUTS PROVIDED

5) INSTALL STUD UNTIL IT BOTTOMS AND TURN OUT 1/4 TURN
******DO NOT FORCE THE STUDS INTO THE CASE*******

6) INSTALLATION LENGTH IS NO LONGER RELEVANT

TORQUE SPECIFICATION + or – 2lbs STANDARD TORQUE PATTERN IS MAINTAINED
a. 2.0 aluminum case 30 lb/ft
b. 2.0, 2.2, 2.4, 2.7 ( all magnesium cases ) 26 lb/ft
c. 3.0, 3.2, 3.6 aluminum case 30 lb/ft
d. 3.0, 3.3, 3.6 aluminum Turbo 32-36 lb/ft
THERE IS NO RETORQUING NECESSARY

[safe]

Originally Posted by HaroldMHedge

Looking at the nuts, I'm thinking of Supertec's cylinder head stud kit.

No, the Supertec studs are thicker, the same diameter as the threads over the entire stud.

[GG Allin]

....heads are back.

[GG Allin]

New pistons have shipped, should have them this week. It's been a long lonely wait. Paid for them in February. Turns out I have longer than standard rods in my motor, so there was no off the shelf solution. Looking forward to getting this thing back together.

[GG Allin]

Old 11.5:1
New 10.25 - 10.3:1
Rods are somewhere around 134mm. Probably in reality 5.25 inches.

[PeteKz]

You mentioned much earlier that you are working with William Knight. You should follow his recommendations exactly. I built my 3.2 engine with his help and parts, and the measurements, clearances, etc., worked out exactly as he said they would.

[GG Allin]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

You mentioned much earlier that you are working with William Knight. You should follow his recommendations exactly. I built my 3.2 engine with his help and parts, and the measurements, clearances, etc., worked out exactly as he said they would.

I was on the phone with him today. He actually worked with Carrillo to have the pistons spec'd. He sent me those pictures. He believes this motor will make more power with the new cams and pistons, on pump gas. Looking forward to the long careful task of putting it back together.

[GG Allin]

Little by little it's coming back together. No major snags so far. Today will be a reorganization & clean up of my work bench and start getting ready to put the heads on.

Proper short block stage.

[phunt]

In the photo of the pistons the old one has the wrist pin deep into the oil ring where the new one has it below the oil ring. If you did not change the rod length nor the stroke how are you compensating for the extra 2-3mm height of the new pistons.