Permatex Anaerobic doesn’t seem to be curing. Is this a problem??

[bigo5552000]

I installed the heads and cam plate 48 hrs ago. I used Permatex Anaerobic gasket maker. It does not seem to be curing. At least the squeeze out is still not cured. Should I be concerned?


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[rsscotty]

As it says below, the lack of oxygen is what cures this sealer.

[bigo5552000]

Originally Posted by rsscotty

As it says below, the lack of oxygen is what cures this sealer.

Yeah I read that, but I think I just needed reassurance! I have never used it before and this being a pretty monumental project for me I have just been overly concerned.

I did do a small test piece tonight on some other aluminum pieces I have. I hope to get up in the morning to that fully cured! I would then feel better! :-p

Thanks for the reassurance!


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[gled49]

Anything that squeezes out will never set.

[stownsen914]

I remember worrying about this with loctite 574 years ago. The stuff you see won't set since it's exposed to O2. If you want to convince yourself, put some between a couple pieces of metal you dont care about and let it set, and then check it.

[Dpmulvan]

Use the tried and true methods of sealing your engine or you’ll end up with an oil leak.

[Dpmulvan]

The Complete Engine Sealant Thread...

[bigo5552000]

Originally Posted by stownsen914

I remember worrying about this with loctite 574 years ago. The stuff you see won't set since it's exposed to O2. If you want to convince yourself, put some between a couple pieces of metal you dont care about and let it set, and then check it.

I did that last night and it was cured this morning! I just needed the confirmation! Thanks for the response!

[gled49]

I apply the 574 real thin. The key to it is, don’t let surfaces contact, maintain air gap until all the hardware is in place, then close gap and rattle all nuts down and torque.

[bigo5552000]

Originally Posted by gled49

I apply the 574 real thin. The key to it is, don’t let surfaces contact, maintain air gap until all the hardware is in place, then close gap and rattle all nuts down and torque.

Well I was definitely more generous with the Anaerobic Permatex than that!




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[winders]

That is too much....

[917_Langheck]

Just a bit...

[bigo5552000]

I can’t remember exactly what it said in Dempsey’s book (Maybe it was a video I watched?) , but I believe it said use a generous amount and that you want to see some squeeze out. I guess we will see if it leaks! :-/


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[pocv0]

wow.....should squeeze out everywhere. LOL I just apply a bead around the perimeter per the factory manual ( for Loctite 574) same stuff basically.

H

[brighton911]

The problem with applying too much is where does the squeeze out go? Answer, into engine cavities and oil pumps and cam spray bars etc. With sealers, more is not better.

[Henry Schmidt]

Originally Posted by bigo5552000

I can’t remember exactly what it said in Dempsey’s book (Maybe it was a video I watched?) , but I believe it said use a generous amount and that you want to see some squeeze out. I guess we will see if it leaks! :-/


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If your cam towers/heads have not been installed, I suggest you start over. If that area leaks you're looking at 25 hours to go back in and reseal. There is no way to repair without disassembly.
Remember, if it leaks after installation you have to remove the engine, remove the intake and fan shroud, disassemble at least one side [remove chain box cover, break down the cam chain sprocket, remove the rockers, remove the cam, pull the heads, separate the heads from the cam towers, clean off old/perhaps dry sealant] and then reassemble. Just setting the cam timing makes a redo time prohibitive.

[bigo5552000]

Originally Posted by Henry Schmidt

If your cam towers/heads have not been installed, I suggest you start over. If that area leaks you're looking at 25 hours to go back in and reseal. There is no way to repair without disassembly.
Remember, if it leaks after installation you have to remove the engine, remove the intake and fan shroud, disassemble at least one side [remove chain box cover, break down the cam chain sprocket, remove the rockers, remove the cam, pull the heads, separate the heads from the cam towers, clean off old/perhaps dry sealant] and then reassemble. Just setting the cam timing makes a redo time prohibitive.

Hmmm..

So I am confident now its all cured. Why do you think it will leak? I cleaned and removed all the squeeze out. I also used some aluminum scrap and tested the sealant and it cured no problem. Thanks!


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[stownsen914]

I’d be less concerned with a leak than I would that there’s a thicker layer of the sealant than you really want between the heads and cam towers.

[bigo5552000]

Originally Posted by stownsen914

I’d be less concerned with a leak than I would that there’s a thicker layer of the sealant than you really want between the heads and cam towers.

Do you think torquing everything to spec would just squeeze any excess resulting in the proper clearances?


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[Henry Schmidt]

Originally Posted by bigo5552000

Hmmm..

So I am confident now its all cured. Why do you think it will leak? I cleaned and removed all the squeeze out. I also used some aluminum scrap and tested the sealant and it cured no problem. Thanks!


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If the excess creates a tolerance issue, you'll know when the cams are installed.
If the cams turn easily by hand the thick layer of goo might not matter.
Roll the dice and hope you make your number.
On this table, the unexpected is the house.