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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1721236516.jpg

I'm guessing the wrist pin on one was floating due to a missing circlip? Just one ? So maybe you just need one piston and cylinder? Or are the other cylinders scored as well ? Just curious.

or maybe a broken ring...that must be it. The galling is 90 degrees from the wrist pin location.

yup it does not look good....it got hot..see those marks on the piston...wrist pin was very easy to take out,right? Yup those chain gears look bad too but that was not your noise..i have seen worse...

Ivan

those spots on the inside of the cylinder and one pistons really looks like water spots(corrosion) and being polished out...right at your index finger..

Ivan

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Doubt your supposed to add goo to the piston base gaskets.
Other pic is the idler arm bushings

yup some mechanics use this stuff on the copper ,i do not...but it almost looks like the engine was starving for oil

Some recommend non-hardening sealant like curil T for cyl base gaskets. I’m probably going to give that a try for my motor that’s about to go together.

Question about what to look for on cam chain gears for wear. I’d understood that wear in the U is a key thing to look for, along with thinning of the gear teeth. And of course any chips or other damage. What else?

It's common and sometimes actually recommended to use a very thin layer of Curil T.

I have pulled apart an engine where they used the grey 1104.. it's not recommended but that engine performed fine and it didn't cause issues.

Using Curil T, allows some time to bolt on the heads and torque down. But if using the grey stuff (or anything that is NOT non-hardening) I would imagine you'd potentially have issues if it cured before you got your heads on and torqued.

Man, it looks pretty whipped all around. You have my sympathy. I’d want to find a smoking gun to feel good about avoiding it the next time.

#5 rod bearing

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1721415643.jpg

pretty bad...where o rings on the oil pump in correct place---and are they green?
The other rod bearings same or ok?Is there any discoloration on the bottom of the rod-like it got hot?
Ivan

Crank looks good. Past fingernail test.
One of the rod bolts did not feel torqued compared to the other.
I havnt split the case test. Just looking at #5.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1721416273.jpg

at least a little good news..

Took my heads pistons and cylinders to Walt at Competition Engineering. Walt is amazing. Super nice guy. Long drive. I didn’t look to well because he found a broken exhaust valve guide. Thank god it was on the exhaust side. And I’m glad I started the teardown which exposed this. So the heads will get redone. He said my pistons and cylinders looked great. So better in person. He said noise had to be the tensioners and to just replace them. This is consistent with any of the expert porsche mechanics. I probably will not split the case seeing this motor still looks new and has very low miles/hours. Walt didn’t think it was necessary. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1721510542.jpg

You can trust Walt. I would not split the case either, unless it is leaking and you want to reseal it. Otherwise you risk getting crap into the oil passages, which will then embed in the bearing shells.

That #5 rod bearing looks good to me. Yes, there is some embedding of a soft metal (almost certainly aluminum bits), but if it passes the plastigage test, I would put it back in as-is. It has already bedded to the crank journal, so don't mess with it! Likewise for the other rod bearings; put them back into the same place and do NOT replace them.

Some vertical marking in the cylinders and on the piston skirts is normal. I would not mess with those either. At most, break the glaze, but put it back together with the same pistons/rings in the same cylinders. Since you say this is a race motor, you will be pulling it apart at regular intervals anyway, so don't worry about minor wear. And expect more wear, because you are flogging it.

You are consistent with all the other pros. I only removed #5 rod. I might remove #2 rod to examine
Lots of good news today. Even finding a broken valve guide eases my mind of needing to tear into the top end.

Those bearings look fine. Make sure there's some "crush" left when you reinstall them, and check the clearances with plastigage if you don't have micrometers and a dial bore gauge.

Good news!
What did Walt say about your cam gears? I ask for a selfish reason, as I'm about to assemble my own motor and wondered about some of the comments you got earlier in the thread.