3.2 Rebuild & Modify Thread

[Coultl]

Photos of plastigauge

[Coultl]

Good call mikedsilva, I measured the case bore and it's way out of spec. I'm pretty surprised as this engine has never been taken apart and everything was in such good shape. I thought the aluminum cases were solid.

I'm getting 65.045mm - 65.060mm which was a long way from the max spec of 65.019mm.

The funny thing is that when I do the calculations with the bearings I measured (all very consistent at 2.495mm) and crank journals (all on the lower edge of the spec ~59.972mm) it indicates that I should have a clearance of nearly 0.1mm or 0.004". The plastigauge was showing between 2.5 and 3 thousandths.

At any rate, I'm going to send the case to Ollie's to have it line bored and I'll have the crank cross drilled while I'm at it.

[Coultl]

Quick update on the rebuild:

- Case was sent to Ollie’s to be surfaced and bored back to stock
- Also sent rotating assembly to Ollies for complete balance
- Heads were sent to Craig for rebuild
- Cams and rockers went to Dougherty for 964 grind and refinish

It’s going to be a while before I get everything back, but I have plenty of work to do on the car to get the shell ready for paint.

In the meantime I had the parts on hand vapor blasted. Some people find the finish too bright but I love it. I cannot believe how well it worked on the heat exchangers and crossover pipe. They were rough looking.

[mikedsilva]

what media do they use in the vapour blasting?
Dont forget to remove your spray tubes and clean them

I ultrasonic clean vapour blasted parts maybe 10 times to get all the media residue out.. it's amazing how much you find.

[Coultl]

I can feel the ceramic/glass on the surface. Definitely going to pull plugs on the cam houses and clean everything. Good to know that one or two good cleans will not be enough!

[LukasM]

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

what media do they use in the vapour blasting?
Dont forget to remove your spray tubes and clean them

I ultrasonic clean vapour blasted parts maybe 10 times to get all the media residue out.. it's amazing how much you find.

Normally most people use ultra fine glass beads for vapor blasting, although more aggressive media can be used to remove heavy oxidation or even powder coating with rough aluminum oxide. On engine parts glass beads only.

For cleaning, definitely remove any plugs. The ultrasonic is a good first step to loosen up everything and get the media off the surfaces. For getting into holes/bores/internal passages, I would also get an air gun with a small needle tip. Submerse the hole part in water before you blow into the holes, and you will usually get out a lot of additional media out of it.

Repeat the process multiple times, you can't overclean and it might save you lots of grief and money down the line.

[Coultl]

Rebuild cylinder heads are back from Craig / cgarr. Good communication with him throughout and the heads look amazing. I cannot wait to get these on!

These have Aasco springs and retainers, new valves and guides, and machined for twin plug.

The case it at Ollies and will not be done for a little while…

[Coultl]

I did a test with the Audi 1.8T coils and FR5DTC plugs and the fit is good. I’m going with these coils as I’ve tuned with them before and they are bomber…and they are cheap. I’ve also used this plug before and it happens to be stick for the 964. I’ve never heard of anyone using it on a 3.2 but I think it should be fine.

The coil is very snug on the lower cover and sticks out a decent bit on the upper cover. I think a 3D printed collar will help it seal and look nice on the upper cover.

[mikedsilva]

I do like the little plastic stand offs fitted to the studs for shipping

[dtxscott]

The heads look amazing!

What's up with the little dots everywhere?

[Coultl]

The little dots are markers for 3D scanning. I’m building a turbo system detailed here:

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/1165542-3-2-turbo-build.html

[ToySnakePMC]

Really enjoying this thread. The rebuilt heads look amazing - along with all the other nice pieces cleaned and detailed. Would you mind sharing the Audi coil part number? I've recently completed a 3.0 single TBI/ DBW with ECUMaster Black on single Audi COPs, but my coils seem to tower over the upper valve cover while your set appears more flush. I am going dual COP so I really need your Audi coils for the lower valve cover. I'd love to get your COP part no if you don't mind... Patrick

[Coultl]

The coils are for a 1.8T Audi / VW part number: 06B905115R. I get Bremi as I think they are the best and they are also only $20 each. The coils for the 2.0T engines are a little hotter but they are longer than the 1.8T coils.

I’m not sure but my coils may be sitting lower than yours due to the spark plugs. The FR5DTC plugs I’m running may be a little shorter than the stock plugs. Just a theory.

[Coultl]

Actually, I’m quite sure it’s the spark plug height difference as there is a photo earlier in this thread that shows my first test fit with these coils. That was with the sock plugs and the coils sat very high.

[ToySnakePMC]

Originally Posted by Coultl

Actually, I’m quite sure it’s the spark plug height difference as there is a photo earlier in this thread that shows my first test fit with these coils. That was with the sock plugs and the coils sat very high.

Okay, now I do see that!
I think I'll do some sparkplug homework and order a set of your style of plugs. I think Adapt Motorsport recommended a Denso plug that I went with. Perhaps it is a bit too long. *

Guess you had the 2nd plug drilled and tapped for 14mm so all plugs are the same... This is your plug you mentioned: BOSCH Porsche Genuine OEM Spark Plug Super FR5DTC

I'lll stop cluttering up your thread... I do like all three threads you have going. Quite overwhelming - all that you have going on! Thanks, Patrick

[Coultl]

I have a little more info on the Audi/VW coil pack fitment. There are two reasons that the coils sit lower with the FR5DTC plugs vs the OE 3.2 plugs.

First the FR5DTC is a shorter plug by about 4mm. Second, the bottom of the coil is supposed to go over (and grip on) the hex on the plug but the OR plug is too large for this to work. The coil is then not able to be pushed down fully.

TLDR, if you want to use the Audi/VW coils, you need to use spark plugs with a 5/8” hex size.

[Coultl]

My case and crank just got back from Ollie’s. Very excited to build this engine!

The guys at Ollie’s decked the case and line honed the mains back to standard. They also grooved and cross drilled the crank. Lastly they balanced everything to within a fraction of a gram. I plan to rev to 7500 so the crank needed to be grooved and cross drilled from what I hear. Maybe would have been a good idea to shuffle pin the case but I think it will be fine for street use.

I’ve been measuring everything first. Tedious but I’m not going to rush this build. The main bearings from Porsche very very consistent. The Clevite rod bearings were just dead on. Probably more accurate than my measuring.

Everything looks great except I may have too little clearance on the rods. My clearance is coming in at about 0.001” and from what I’ve heard it would be best to be at 0.002”…maybe even a little more given that I’m boosting the engine. I’ll make some calls tomorrow and see what the pros think. Getting a thousandth taken off the rods is likey to take a few weeks…

I did drop the GT3 oil pump in to test the clearing that Ollies did. Perfect!

[Coultl]

I found an easy way to test piston squirters. A Sharpie marker has just the right diameter and taper to (mostly) block off the oil passages and allow you to use an air gun to test the squirters.

Passenger side case half: Insert the sharpie to block off the passages inside the case bolt bore. Then use your air gun on the main bearing oil hole. I filled things up with brake cleaner and then applied pressure to give a visual of the squirter opening. The oil squirter passage intersects the passage from the case bolt bore to the bearing. The Sharpie blocks off the case bolt side of this passage so all the air goes to the squirter.

Drivers side case half: This one is much easier. The squirter oil hole is visible right at the top of the case bolt bore. The Sharpie is just used to block off the outer side of the case bolt bore. Then you just need to apply air pressure to the top of the inter case bolt bore.

[Coultl]

I called the guys at Pauter about my low rod bearing clearance and they were very helpful. I was calculating clearance by measuring the rod journal, rod big end bore, and bearing thickness. Instead, they suggested I install the bearings in the rod and measure the bore with them in. That yielded almost exactly 0.0025” which is my target.

I know the other way I measured is also correct so I really don’t know where the error was coming from. I have triple checked and I’m right around 0.0025” for all rods. Good to go!

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by Coultl

I called the guys at Pauter about my low rod bearing clearance and they were very helpful. I was calculating clearance by measuring the rod journal, rod big end bore, and bearing thickness. Instead, they suggested I install the bearings in the rod and measure the bore with them in. That yielded almost exactly 0.0025” which is my target.

I know the other way I measured is also correct so I really don’t know where the error was coming from. I have triple checked and I’m right around 0.0025” for all rods. Good to go!

I was going to say: usually the Clevite bearings have a 'larger' clearance.
I'm not sure why your measurements weren't adding up when measuring the bearing shells separately, however with the bearings in the rods and the bolts torqued, this is how they are going to live in reality, so it's the measurement to rely on.

Case looks awesome.