1979 SC Chewed a Valve - Total Rebuild

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

I’ll confuse things a little more
The factory uses regular nuts and waves washers on the thermostat, breather cover.
Don’t use nyloc nuts inside the engine, use regular nuts, waves washers, locker washers on the oil pump.
Bruce

Wave washers (and others) are removed from DIN since they were found useless...

DIN 127, DIN 128 and DIN 6905
DIN 137 and DIN 6904
DIN 6797
DIN 6798
DIN 93, DIN 432 and DIN 463
DIN 526
DIN 7967

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by proffighter

Wave washers (and others) are removed from DIN since they were found useless...

DIN 127, DIN 128 and DIN 6905
DIN 137 and DIN 6904
DIN 6797
DIN 6798
DIN 93, DIN 432 and DIN 463
DIN 526
DIN 7967

what washers do you use when fastening the cam towers to the heads?

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

what washers do you use when fastening the cam towers to the heads?

I'd like to know this too! I will go back and check my photos from disassembly.

Also, curious to the expert's opinions on disassembly/cleaning of brand new pistons and cylinders.

Do I pull the pistons out and check the ring alignment?
Do I remove the rings to clean them even more thoroughly?

[Flat6pac]

I have yet to take apart a factory built motor that had split washers or just flat washers in cam tower or inside the cam boxes.
Don’t worry about ring alignment, the rings will align in moments where they want to run.
I have always had to assemble a new set of Mahles but I’m sure they know more about P&C than we do.
Bruce

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

I have always had to assemble a new set of Mahles but I’m sure they know more about P&C than we do.
Bruce

That sounds like a story. This is my first (and hopefully only) new piston/cylinder set.

[draw]

Looks to me like the CIS “hump” is oriented at the bottom of the cylinder and it is supposed to be on the left. You’ll need to separate the piston from the cylinder, so you can clean, oil, and orient everything at that time.

[Flat6pac]

What is the weight differences from the other pistons in the set?
Casting in the piston should be 93L7 for 8.5 compression of 78/79, or what is the match number from old pistons in case they were changed?
Yes, the low face of piston goes to the right to face the spark plugs
Bruce

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

What is the weight differences from the other pistons in the set?
Casting in the piston should be 93L7 for 8.5 compression of 78/79, or what is the match number from old pistons in case they were changed?
Yes, the low face of piston goes to the right to face the spark plugs
Bruce

I have a full new set of identical pistons and cylinders, all Euro 3.0 Liter, 95.0 mm, 9.8:1, Nikasil.

I'm trying to determine if I need to remove all these pistons from their cylinders, clean, oil, borrow/buy the ring compression tool and re-assemble. Or is it OK to lubricate, properly orient the piston, and start putting them on?

[targa72e]

Disassemble and clean. Many have found new P&C to be quite dirty.

John

[Flat6pac]

You just showed one Porsche piston, so I was inquiring
By the box, you purchased directly from dealer?
Maybe that’s why they were pre assembled…
Bruce

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

You just showed one Porsche piston, so I was inquiring
By the box, you purchased directly from dealer?
Maybe that’s why they were pre assembled…
Bruce

That could be - I bought them through a local shop that helped me organize and build a full parts list, and is providing some guidance for my work.

Originally Posted by targa72e

Disassemble and clean. Many have found new P&C to be quite dirty.

John

Sounds like a plan. I'm pulling up videos of the process and will begin cleaning shortly. I'm looking to borrow the compression tools to put it all back together.

[Flat6pac]

Just go to NAPA and get the metal coil that uses 1/4 inch drive to tighten
Usually less than $10 on their tool tree.
The band with locking pliers may not have the correct band for 95mm and it has more bands than you’ll ever need or use..but the pliers are good for pulling the fan housing band together to get the bolt in.
Bruce

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Just go to NAPA and get the metal coil that uses 1/4 inch drive to tighten
Usually less than $10 on their tool tree.
The band with locking pliers may not have the correct band for 95mm and it has more bands than you’ll ever need or use..but the pliers are good for pulling the fan housing band together to get the bolt in.
Bruce

This thing?

[Flat6pac]

Yes

[stownsen914]

That's what I used. As long as you are assembling your P&Cs on the bench, it works fine.

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by stownsen914

That's what I used. As long as you are assembling your P&Cs on the bench, it works fine.

Sounds good. I'm a little anxious about getting those wire circlips in - they are not normal circlips with holes. Typically this style are inserted with a pusher tool (kind of like an old cigarette lighter).

[Flat6pac]

It takes a lot of wrist action with needle nose pliers and getting them set.
Good option is 22 mm Stomski Racing circlip installer and a nicked screwdriver to install the clip into the tube.
Bruce

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

It takes a lot of wrist action with needle nose pliers and getting them set.
Good option is 22 mm Stomski Racing circlip installer and a nicked screwdriver to install the clip into the tube.
Bruce

That's what I was afraid of. I'm hoping my local shop can lend me the circlip tool, especially for the mounting on the rods.

[john walker's workshop]

I used to just push the 22mm clips in with my thumb and finish sliding it into the groove with a screwdriver. The 23mm clips caused me to get the installation tool set.

[Flat6pac]

And way easier with the bottom row of studs out of the way
Bruce