^^^ Good points. You should replace it. Mine only needed a couple of repairs.

New harness is on the way. CIS is pulled back off... again...
Doing some cleanup stuff while I wait for the new parts to arrive.

I have a heater backdate mod I made to the right-side air block plate which came apart during sandblasting. So I'm going to need to rig it up again with epoxy. It worked fine for 12 years until the sandblasting.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377530594.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377530575.jpg

Putting on the muffler while I wait for wires, and couldn't find a new gasket for CAT-to-Muffler in the parts box.

But there is this odd thing. Does this ring go in here? It actually seems to fit. Not sure what it is, some kind of non-metallic but shiny material.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763478288.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763478288.jpg

It goes under the clamp on the crossover pipe, pre Carrera
Bruce

Ah, I'll take a closer look at that side.

This morning before kids woke up, I started epoxy on the block plate (above) and its elbow pipe. Then bolted transmission mounts to the brace, and installed all the studs for the engine-transmission connection.

Tomorrow morning I'm picking up the missing exhaust gasket, some new hose for the heater air, new intake header sleeves, and transmission shift rod seal.
New wiring harness shipped out Monday but looks like it might not arrive until later Saturday, which is a shame.

I also ordered black high-temp brush paint for covering the spots my fancy new powder-coat was nicked. Hopefully I can keep rust off all that tinwork.

I couldn't find one of my engine/transmission nuts. However I have all my old head stud nuts, which match threads. Can I just use those?

The factory one had a narrowed down leading edge on the starter but head nut will work.
Bruce

Spent the morning driving back and forth across town to pick up the parts. Just waiting for wiring harness.

Shipping tracking is showing wiring harness late Saturday delivery despite it getting out in Monday's mail. So... that sucks. But at least I'll be all ready when it arrives.

For the next guy trying to make this piece, the 911 SC heater tube works pretty good.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763772394.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763772231.jpg

Bad luck this morning. WUR line snapped - maybe I can repair it? Really don't want to end up another week into winter waiting for a part.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1186464-wur-fuel-line-repairable.html#post12567237

I can make that hose for you today. I have tubing and fitting in stock. Ship it next day if you want.
Send me a picture if each end with fitting sizes and over all length and I make it happen.I really want to see you find the end of this project.
As for using heat to assemble the ends: not a great idea. These are compression barbs and if they leak you're looking at a potentially devastating fire.

Line length is 34 inches including fittings.
The hollow bolts that go through the banjo's look like m8's but with a finer thread than the m8's used everywhere else. Pictured below with a normal m8 nut and normal m8 rod.
About 2 feet of it has an extra layer, although that had begun to crack. I sleeved it in a split loom tubing to protect it from abrasion (not pictured).

Do you need any other details?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763835937.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763835937.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763835937.jpg

Sent you an email via the PP messaging system with more info, hopefully that works.

My only question would be: Banjo fitting on both ends? Some have a cone nipple and swivel nut on one end and banjo on the other.

Engine is lowered onto the lift, transmission is mated (with fork properly positioned), and I'm almost ready to put it back into the car!

I want to double-check all my valves. And I forgot I should plug this little hole in the crosspipe where the EGR used to connect. Not sure what to stick on it.

Also, need to check old photos to figure out where this stuff goes.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763870808.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763870808.jpg

Final prep work this morning, planning to put it in this afternoon. Remaining tasks:

1) Find something to plug that hole. Not sure if inside is threaded. Feels like its not a big deal for break-in if I don't find a plug. ???
2) Finish checking valve adjustment. Checked the uppers this morning and a couple were a bit looser than I'd prefer, so I tightened them. Will check the lowers later.
3) Assemble CVs with their new boots, grease and install.
4) Figure out where that bracket and spring go (picture above).
5) Pick up more transmission fluid locally. Due to my slow drip-leak I had ordered a bottle of Kendall from our host. Even after I put it in, a 4mm hex reached down the fill hole didn't reach the fluid level.

The transmission fluid is the big one. I think I can use parts-store stuff as long as it meets the requirement, and order a full batch from host to refill later. Hypoid GL-5, 80W/90.

It appears that you actually fill the transmission on the side, not the top. So I probably put in enough or even overfilled it. I will remove the side plug and check and be ready for some to drip out.
What even is that big plug on the top for that?

You think I would have remembered from 10 years ago.

1) Find something to plug that hole. Not sure if inside is threaded. Feels like its not a big deal for break-in if I don't find a plug. ??? You can use the fitting on the original EGR tube with a ball bearing that fits inside the exhaust crossover fitting that is larger than the hole.
2) Finish checking valve adjustment. Checked the uppers this morning and a couple were a bit looser than I'd prefer, so I tightened them. Will check the lowers later.
You should check the valve after a few miles of break-in. It;s better to hear a valve than to smell a valve.
3) Assemble CVs with their new boots, grease and install.
Keep in mind that the inner race of a CV can be installed two way. Think small to large when install the race.
4) Figure out where that bracket and spring go (picture above). The bracket goes under the intake plenum (air box) near the bell-crank bracket. It should have a rubber grommet that supports the plenum through a u-shaped groove above the crankcase breather. The hose clamp holds the CIS supply/return fuel lines.
The springs goes from the throttle bell-crank to the #2(?) intake runner. There is a small tab sticking straight down that it hooks to.
5) Pick up more transmission fluid locally. Due to my slow drip-leak I had ordered a bottle of Kendall from our host. Even after I put it in, a 4mm hex reached down the fill hole didn't reach the fluid level.

The transmission fluid is the big one. I think I can use parts-store stuff as long as it meets the requirement, and order a full batch from host to refill later. Hypoid GL-5, 80W/90.
The trick is to avoid overly slippery transmission fluid. The steel syncros don't react well to some of the synthetic or graphite based oils. Steel syncros need friction to function properly.

If you're talking about the 17mm plug on the top, it's a breather. The breath has a hole in it to vent heat/pressure so the seals don't leak. It's very important that the hole in the fitting be pointed in the direction the car is traveling. If it faces the wrong way it will respond by venting most of the gear oil out.

Holy crap I will check that!

I realized I'm also going to need the EGR bracket to support the other side of the air box even though I'm not putting the EGR on it.

Still searching through old photos for what that little silver tab is for.

Thank you for your incredible assistance!

I'm picking up a couple gallons of fresh gas on the way home to add the tank. I've got all my filters and lots of oil and very excited for the afternoon.

And picking up two gallons of spumoni frozen custard.

Couldn't get a ball bearing nor the fitting off the EGR hard pipe without cutting it.
For now, I've put a small plate across the end of the EGR pipe, blocking the hole. So it is a dead end. It is a pain to thread it below around the exhaust/heat exchangers, but at least it isn't up in the airbox region.

Engine is in! Spent longer than I'd like figuring out the EGR bracket. Forgot to put that little rubber clip on the other bracket, but I can reach it now so I can fix it.

Darkness has fallen, mount bolts are torqued. Time for dinner. Might hook stuff up after dinner, but not going to do a startup until I get some sleep and can re-check stuff in the morning.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763941685.jpg

Nice job!

Good idea to triple check everything after you stepped away and have a clear head.

I’m prepping to drop my engine soon, but not to tear it apart, just install a cam sensor- much less puckering!

Yeah, no sense is rushing or working while tired.
After dinner I just cleaned up, put away tools, arranged parts for tomorrow.

Then had something mixed with apple cider.

Wise decision to step back and start with a clear head. I go over a job while sleeping (weird I know) and more than once, have come up with an item that needs a re-check and/or confirmation. Good luck !

Going crazy here - which of my two oil lines goes top, and which goes bottom?

The braided one seems to align for the bottom but won't fit on it. The rubber one aligns for both.

I'm worried the braided one should be top, but I didn't adjust the hose clamp on the back correct and the twist is wrong.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763993241.jpg

With enough encouragement the braided hose was flexible.

I also had to pull an octopus to tighten some brackets in the back.

Now I'm staring at the bottom trying to figure out where the hard oil line connects. This all seems so clear coming off 3 months ago.

The hose coming off the neck is supposed to go to the back of the air intake crossover from your airflow sensor to your to your throttle body then that hose is supposed to have a reducer in it. That’s why when you take off the cap it stumbles because you’re getting false air After the airflow sensor. The other one off the side of the tank goes to the breather hose in the triangle.
Bruce

The only thing under the car should be the scavenged line with his connector and the S hose, which speaks for itself.
Bruce

Wrestling with starter wiring: https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1186559-getting-my-starter-back-wired-hot-start-relay-edition.html#post12568382

Also I hate hate hate heat exchangers, will tell more later.

The blue stripe goes on the bottom tag.
Bruce

Unfortunately... small fuel leak.

Cranking to get oil pressure worked well (w/ spark and fuel off). Oil light would go off nice and properly. No leaks seen.

However after only 3 or 4 seconds of cranking I had gasoline coming down the right back oil pan. Somewhere on the back of the CIS, can't see where behind the airbox.

So I'm getting ready for a partial drop to locate and fix. Will need to brush up on what has to come off and what can stay on.

Hmmm, is the partial drop going to cost me 9 quarts of oil? Feeling likely.

Caught all the oil (less than I put it) in the original bottles. Looks clean and no flecks, was only used for 2 minutes of starter cranking (no ignition). Reuse for the 2-minute break-in?

Also detached everything for the re-drop tomorrow. I think I should be able to partial-drop and get plenty of CIS access. I wonder if I can put the two fuel lines back on, short the fuel pump relay, and test the fuel pressure with the engine partially dropped.

While I wait for the morning to re-drop...

I discovered an unfortunate surprise that cost me more than 2 hours today.
Section 10 in the red rebuild book (accessories, exhaust, and fuel injection) is the last rebuild section. Early in the chapter it tells you to put on the oil line adaptor. I had that taken care of.

Then it goes on to other things, including exhaust. It never tells you to put on the bottom hardline for the oil. And I didn't. I didn't realize my error until I was under the car, engine bolted in, ready to connect oil lines.

You'd think it would be quick to pop off that heat exchanger and fasten the oil line. But remember my exchangers have those awful long studs. And I'm now upside down, not at an engine mount.
And my heat exchangers are kind of old and ratty. So I'm balancing the heat exchanger with a hand and elbow, trying to keep the gaskets from sliding off, while I raise it into position. I think it took me 5 tries.

After wrestling with some bolts... I then had a barrel nut drop inside of the exchanger through a rusty crack in its through-hole. (Not an exhaust crack, so no fume issues).

Yep - the thing was 5/6 bolted back on, and a barrel nut fell into it's insides. I tried to fish it out, finally going to get my borescope and putting a little bend in my magnetic wand. I was able to find the rascal, fish it out, and get it back together.

All told, that little adventure cost me a lot of time. So to anyone rebuilding your engine - put on the hard oil line before the exhaust!

I have used the high-temp red RTV to stick the exhaust gaskets to the exhaust ports, then put on the HE’s.

That would have saved me a lot of pain and suffering. I suppose the same orange loctite or dirko used on engine seals would have worked?

I'm wondering - can I hook up the two fuel lines to the partially-dropped engine. Leave engine harness/CDI wires disconnected. Then start the engine and turn to the 'run' position.
Will I then get fuel pressure, so I can check for any more leaks? Or does something in the system refuse to run the fuel pump without the engine wiring harness connected?

Found I'd left off the fuel hookup on the back of the fuel distributor.
I think I'm going to dig up one of those "hook everything up" lists for engine re-insertion.

One thought: If your heat exchangers is cranked or rusted though you stand a great chance of steaming up the inside of your car if you drive through a puddle. You also take the risk of smoke inhalation if your heat exchanger gets oil in it from a valve cover leak or leaks from above.

Yeah, the part for engine exhaust is fine, but there is a hole inside the through-bolt hole on one of the exchangers. I haven't had issues so far except not-great heat (already blower-delete setup). New exchangers are on the wish-list.

Got everything rigged, no leaks, but no start. The facts:
1) Oil pressure light goes off right away. No oil leaks.
2) Fuel pressure seems fine, did a quick spray in a bottle by lifting air plate.
3) Spark checked by removing a spark wire and putting on spare plug grounded. Nice bright blue.
4) Had one small backfire after about 25 seconds of turning over. No catching or attempts to catch - other than that no ignition sound at all.

I checked my distributor - with engine at TDC the distributor arm was aligned with the notch on the distributor case. Is it possible I'm one rotation off?

I can put all the injectors in my baby bottles (I have a setup for this) and check them all. But I'm pretty sure fuel isn't the issue.

I would have thought I'd get some variety of ignition, even with off-tempo spark, seeing as I had fuel. If the distributor adjustment isn't the issue, what should I check next?