HELP !!!!!Missing at high RPMīs

[Robert Sanchez]

I have a 3.2 1984 that is missing at 5000+ RPMīs.
Would a leak-down test or a compresion test tell me if I have a pulled stud? Thanks for your help.
Robert

[jluetjen]

Have you confirmed the condition of the ignition system?

[Robert Sanchez]

Thanks for answering,
The car start fine, and runs perfect to 5000. The plugs are new and all fire. Does any one know if a leak-down test or/and a compresion test can tell me if I have a pulled stud?

[Tyson Schmidt]

Pull the distributor cap and make sure the advance mechanism if free. The DME advances the timing, but the mechanical advance in the distributor advances the rotor so that it will be properly aligned with the appropriate pin in the cap at high rpm.

If the rotor advance mechanism is stuck, then you'll get a misfire at high rpm, due to the rotor pointing between two pins, causing the spark to occasionally jump the the wrong pin, and firing the wrong cylinder.

[Robert Sanchez]

Thanks so much for the advice, I will work on it tomorrow.

[Wayne 962]

Get a copy of the Engine Rebuild Book (http://www.101projects.com), and it will help tell you what to look for. The 3.2s don't pull studs - they break them (big difference).

-Wayne

[al lkosmal]

My car did the same thing until the coil finally went south.

[oneblueyedog]

I don't know if it has any relavence to 3.2's but on my distributor (78SC) the advance mechanisim does gum up and go non functional over time and I take it out from time to time (like Major service) and clean the plates with starting fluid (ether). I wash the soot out after taking off the vac advance and the inspection plate. The ether dissolves grease and oil and it evaporates away. My dad told me about this characteristic (he's a doctor). THE IMPORTANT PART IS THE SAFETY ISSUE. WASH STUFF OUTDOORS. IT IS ULTRA FLAMMABLE! DON'T BREATHE IT IN. Hold the distributor upside down so the wash residue doesn't go into the bearings/bushings of the distributor. It dries with no noticeable residue. It doesn't melt the insulation on the dist. windings.You then have to oil and grease the brearings and swashplates but don't overdo it to create more mess from the arcing and dust that gets in there. I use it to clean other parts too. THE DISTRIBUTOR FUNCTIONS GREAT AFTER THIS MAINTENANCE. Keeping stuff clean is always a great first step in maintenace.

[Wayne 962]

Good advice on cleaning, although I personally would probably use a less toxic cleaner.

3.2 engines don't have vacuum advances though...

-Wayne

[Robert Sanchez]

OK guyīs, I found the problem. Aparently when I recently did the clutch, the fly wheel sensors where moved and ended out of calibration. After going through all the electrical sistem, and checking the compresion and studs, I am so happy to have found an easy solution. Thanks you all for your help. This is what makes this site so special............