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911gilley's Avatar
 
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Smile Replace Guide Tube Seals on Clutch Job

I just finished installing a new Sachs Power Clutch Kit in my '83 SC. Got the Super Kit with all the bells and whistles from Pelican.

I'm now working on the transmission side of the job, and the kit includes the smaller o-ring for the guide tube seal where it mates with the trans housing, but does not seem to include the seal that is inside of the guide tube that seals the ouput shaft. Does anyone know if that seal can be/is normally replaced on a clutch job?

-Ed
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Old 11-29-2003, 07:08 PM
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Tranny input seal. Apparently, when 911 clutch disks get contaminated with oil, it is from tranny oil getting past this seal. Not a real common problem, at least I don't think it is, but I replaced mine. Just don't scratch the shaft.
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Old 11-29-2003, 08:40 PM
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Then I guess I'll replace it while it's all apart. Bentley manual says to use Porsche special tool to remove.....is it needed or can seal be coaxed out with something else?
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Old 11-29-2003, 08:53 PM
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Guide tube removal is necessary to get to the seals. I did it on my 78 SC's transmission.

Remove the 2 Phillips screws with a Phillips head socket or you'll strip them.

Bend a u out of music wire. Make the length about 5" (check that it clears the output shaft and a bit more. Bend the ends out at the ends past 90 cut excess and smooth the ends. This tool is the puller of the guide tube.

Put the bent tangs through the 2 holes int he guide tube. The loop hangs free so you can put a big breaker bar through it. One end you hold and pull. THe other end rests on a piece of wood that rests on the lip of the bellhousing.

Pry up gently but firmly. The guide tube tends to rock in its bore. So pull on the opposite side, back and forth until it pulls free.

Check to see how far the old seal is in the bore of the guide tube. You then drive out the old seal with a socket the diameter of the seal. The inside of the guide tube has different diameters. Don't jam a socket into the bore.

Drive the new seal in either a tiny bit shy of the old seal or a bit past the position of the old seal (Stress TINY BIT).

Lube the lip of the new seal. Replace the O-ring, lube it lightly.

Mount the guide tube back in with the Phillips screws. Turn them an eighth of a turn back and forth until seated and torque to spec.

Lightly grease the outside of the tube with Hi-temp grease.

Hope it helps.
Old 11-30-2003, 06:04 PM
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Thanks oneblueyedog. I got the guide tube out.....stripped one of the screws even though using a #3 phillips driver......managed to get out after loosening with a couple taps of the hammer on screwdriver end....will have to get new screw. The top side of the guide tube shows a minimal amount of wear (3/1000's of an inch) but bottom side shows none. Can I just flip it over when reinstalling it? Just need to order the new screw and input shaft seal (I have the O-ring) and presto it'll be done.

Thanks for the pointers,

-Ed
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Old 11-30-2003, 09:34 PM
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Flipping it around sounds like a good idea. I'm going to check on my transmission and see if I happened to do that. Which side was the wear side in relation to your T.O. bearing fork?

Thanks!
Old 12-02-2003, 05:48 PM
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It was on the top "dorsal" surface of the tube. Let me know what you find out.

Thanks,

-Ed
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Old 12-03-2003, 08:25 PM
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I thought the guide tube on my SC, had quite a bit of wear for only 80k.
I considered flipping it around as suggested here, but a new tube is not that much money, so I replaced it. John Walker also recommended I do so. It was good advice, as the clutch operation is very smooth now.
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Old 12-04-2003, 07:33 AM
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Thanks, Doug. There is really not that much wear on it and I hate to replace it if it's possible to turn it over.
-Ed
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Old 12-05-2003, 07:46 AM
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Ed, It's funny that the seal is not in the kit.
I bought Waynes book and it is in his list of recommendations of while your in there stuff. He forgot to mention the thin o-ring that you did get with the kit. I ordered the o-ring on the next order, but had everything buttoned back up by the time it showed.

I flipped my tube over and it works smooth as silk. Onlt the top side of mine was worn at the time so I'll let the new top side wear for a while.
If you have to order the seal check the 3 rubber seals on the clutch shaft. 2 are inside the bell and one is on the underside. The one on the underside get's the most wear, but I found the 2 on the inside actually hold the clutch fork in the center (not just seals but like rubber bumpers.)

Bluedog's description of the tube removal tool is good. Bently's book has a good picture. It's hard to remove it without it.

Ed- how's the rest of the project going?
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Old 12-05-2003, 10:27 AM
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Bill,

That's what I'm going to do with the tube.......just flip it. Will need to order the seal for output shaft though as I really thought that it would be included in the kit......why the heck include an O-ring for the darn tube but not the other seal????? I have Wayne's book too and thought the same thing.

The other seals you speak of on the clutch shaft did come with the kit and I will be installing them when I finally get the other parts.

As far as progress on the project: right now I'm delayed due to a lack of parts.....our Host sent me the wrong oil breather hose (part number/description wrong on web site) so I need to get that and a bunch of other odds and ends (nuts/bolts/washers/seals). Thanks for asking and I'll keep you posted.

-Ed
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Old 12-05-2003, 02:06 PM
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