Safe Assembly Spec's 81' 3.0

[flmont]

Ok Lister's,.....Iam now starting to assemble the 3.0,..with a 964 cam grind and less than 5 thousants off of the heads,and Iam using the original PC's....Iam curious as to what fit checks are absolutly needed,I know what Wayne's book states,And the only mods are the cams.So does the piston to valve spec need to be done to exact spec,( do to the milling) And what about Cam timing with 964 Cam spec's (Supose to hold valve's open longer right ??)...I did'nt want to buy all the tools needed,. if these Value's are not going to endanger my engine once in and running at operating Temp's...I want to Assemble, then have a shop check it all before I install it ??? as usual,.. Thanks so much for the Help...Frank

[William Miller]

The only tools you'll need are the ones you will need to scrap up for timing the valves. You need to do the deck height and piston to head clearance check (You just need the solder.) as well as the piston to valve check. You need the dial gauge setup. (You need this to time the camshafts anyway.)

You could bolt it together dry and have the shop check it and time the cams for you but that would probably cost more than the tools.

[Wayne 962]

Frank, nothing personal, but you appear tp have the wrong attitude here. If you cheapen out on the rebuild, then you will end up with a cheap and leaky engine. If you cut corners, then it will show up when your engine doesn't run the way it should. These engines are very unforgiving to mistakes. Trust me on this.

If you are concerned about the costs of the tools, then buy them and then resell them on eBay. You should recoup about 75% of your costs.

I think you should look over the book again - all the measurements and specs in there are necessary for the proper assembly of your engine - there are no shortcuts on 911 engines (of course you can shortcut everything, but you will pay for it later on). As for the piston-valve measurement, it should take a few hours and doesn't use any special tools, why would you ever want to skip it?

-Wayne

[flmont]

Well,..TRUST ME I dont want to take a cheap way out,..I was under the Impression that if you did not mod it much that it would re-assemble without any major problem,..And I thought,If I have a shop double check my assembly work I would kill 2 birds with 1 stone,..and then do a final assembly with all parts installed I.E head gaskets ,sealants Etc,..Maybe not the best approach..??? ...I should learn the process and then have a shop check it (IF I feel the need) ..???? Thanks Frank

[Wayne 962]

Skip the shop check, and read the book 2-3 times, and save your $$$ there. Get the right parts and the right tools, follow the instructions carefully and completely. Don't skip any inspection steps, and work slowly. I think you'll be surprised at how easy it is with the correct tools, parts and information...

-Wayne

[William Miller]

Ditto
If you trust yourself to go this far keep it up!
You'll feel that much better in the end!
Just take your time once you do it you will get how the whole thing works.
Good luck!

[flmont]

Thanks William,..Some days Iam full of confidence,..Other's I think Damn if I screw this up...But if I did,. it wont be the end of the world,..Just delay my driving adventure for a while ... LOL...Thanks I shall carry on and accomplish this myself....

[William Miller]

Good!
Mine was a totally stock rebuild except for Waynes recommended upgrades. I had a broken top ring on #4. I believe this was due to the intake valve contacting the piston. (There was a mark on the top of 2 pistons.) This could have been from over rev, weak springs of clearances too tight. I replaced all the valve springs to be sure and checked the piston to head clearance. I did not do the dry check because it was purely stock and the cylinder heights measured within spec. (I was willing to take a calculated risk. I did check the piston to valve clearance following cam timing.
(I used the quick method by preloading the valves by the recommended clerance and then very slowly and carefully turned the engine by hand.)
Sure enough one of the valves contacted the piston. I was able to rectify this by retarding the cam timing a bit to the Euro specifications.
This solved the problem. If I hadn't done the check it would have been a disaster.

This engine had previously been rebuilt in 1986. (Purchased and installed by the PO's wrench.) I know it was not done with care and attention thus the cause of the broken ring and it's short life. Because it was rebuilt I suspected that it may have been bastardized and was unsure of what P&C's and cams were actually in the engine. The only way to be sure is to check the clearances.

I think with the age of the older engines, it is even more important to check everything out because it is probable that they have been opened up in the past.

Wayne's step by step instructions mixed with theory along with his knowledge and that of his advisors certainly add clarity to the project that was not avalible in one place. (Except maybe Anderson's school.) There were probably a lot more mistakes made in the past than will be made in the future.

You have a lot of support here if you get stumped or have to just ask a dumb question. If you have a digital camera take pictures and post them!

[aigel]

Never make any assumptions if you have the chance to measure. There isn't *that* much to do. Ditto on the shop visit. You don't need no shop.

George

[Groesbeck Hurricane]

FLMONT

Check with some local Pelicanites and "rent" their tools from them. Give them a deposit to pay for a new tool in case you break theirs. Cheaper, you get to use the right tools and another member has their tools used on a regular basis. Or did I just steal an idea from another member...