Storing and preserving an engine

[rvdv]

I have just removed my rebuilt 2.2s motor with 10000 mi. and put a high compression 2.4 in my car. What is the recommended way to preserve and store this motor for an indefinate amount of time.

Thanks
Rudy

[Grady Clay]

rvdv,
You asked this question a little late.
Can you put your 2.2S back in the car and drive it? If so, great. Clean it well, take it to the car wash and pressure wash everything. Go run it and get it absolutely dry. Get everything running properly; MFI. Ignition, check cylinder leakage, cranking compression, torque heads, adjust the valves, check cam timing, check sump, clean oil several times, and note any oil leaks. Go out and drive to get it HOT.
Now you are ready for the preservation process.
With very little fuel in the tank, add 5% “Marvel Mystery Oil” (MMO) there are also several other similar products. Add a quart of MMO to the oil. Run it for only five minutes or less driving. Pull the spark plugs, add some MMO to the cylinders, and crank the engine. It will make a mess but that is OK. Repeat a few times and put the plugs back in.
Get a spray bottle from your home center and mix 20% MMO and 80% WD-40. Hose everything down. Again it will make a mess but that is OK. Drain the oil from the sump.
Get an industrial strength sealable plastic bag for the engine (a giant HD Ziploc.)
Get about 20# (10Kg) of anhydrous calcium sulfate (CaSO4) and put it in a perforated metal container suitable for going in your oven at 275F. This stuff absorbs water. When dry it is blue and when water saturated it is pink. Check periodically and when pink, put it in your oven at 275 for about 3 hours. Let cool and put back in the bag with the engine.
Store this conglomeration in a “cool, dry place.” Part of a heated basement that isn’t directly heated is best. You want minimal daily temperature variations or changes from the furnace/AC cycles. Don’t put it on the floor!

I think this the best way to store an engine. In Toronto you have thicker air (more oxygen to corrode stuff) and more humidity than we do in the “high desert” of Colorado.

If you can’t put the engine back in and run it, do as much of above as possible.

Putting the engine back in service presents another set of problems. First you want to turn over the MFI pump by hand with MMO in the fuel. Just take the belt off. Next you want to put the pump back in time and carefully turn over the engine without plugs, having added oil to the cylinders. Another mess. Clean and service the distributor.
Use some other muffler to start the engine so you don’t pollute your street muffler with MMO and oil.

Before you attempt to start the engine, have fresh gas in the tank, clean oil in the system, and the ignition working properly. Put in new hot plugs. I would use BP5ES but some recommend hot recessed-tip plugs (like some race plugs) to prevent fowling. You want to do everything possible to have the engine fire and run on the first try.

Treat it lust like a brand new engine. It will need careful break-in.

Chain tensioners that have sat for a period of time are a problem. I would recommend replacement prior to starting the engine. You may also need to replace the crank seals, left MFI cam seal, oil return tube seals, valve cover gaskets, etc. depending on how well the engine stood the storage.

BTW, what is your new 2.4? Sounds cool.

Best,
Grady

[rvdv]

Thanks for the detailed reply Grady, the induction and exhaust system are off the 2.2, its just a long block. If I opened the chain housings and collapsed the tensioners (hydraulic) and then pinned them like they were when new they shood be ok I think, but I would like your opinion. Before I pulled the engine I changed the oil with straight 30 and then ran the car for 30 min., drained the oil then pulled the engine. The engine is now on an engine stand, I was going to put fresh oil in the cylinders then completely wrap with shipping saran wrap hopefully sealing the engine from O2 and moisture. I don't about osmosis effects using this method though.

I built the 2.4 using a 7R case from a 73T, 2.2S pistons, 2.4S heads and E cams. The only issue was at BDC, the skirts of the pistons just kissed the webs on the case so I had to deal with that by grinding the edges of the skirts slightly. I am using the 2.2S MFI system on the engine with no problems whatsoever at all RPM ranges. Overall impression is the 2.4 is much more pleasurable to drive with the higher torque and wider power band, although I do miss that wild growl and sudden rush at 5300 RPM on the 2.2s motor.

Rudy

[Grady Clay]

Rudy,
Your 2.2S intakes and 2.2S MFI pump are designed to work with S heads (which you have) and, most important, S cams. Take the S cams out of the 2.2 and put them in the 2.4. Now you have a 2.4S and everything will work in “symphony.” You will get that rush again.

I recall there was also an issue with the 2.2S P&C with piston clearance to the 70.4 crank counterweights. I also recall there was an issue with the cylinder spigots extending farther into the case than the 2.4s. Perhaps someone with recent experience can confirm or correct me.

If/when you have occasion to have the cylinders off, fit them to the case main webs like a race engine. After grinding on the piston webs, you should re-balance the pistons.

I’ll offer more tomorrow. What other questions do you have?

Best,
Grady