Head Stud ID

[M.D. Holloway]

Sorry to sound like an idiot - was wondering, any way that you can tell what your head studs are made of just by looking - without opening her up? Some know-it-all down the block says he can tell with just by looking - I don't know enough yet to shut him down. Of course, this is the same guy who claims to know a guy who deer hunts with a Bowie knife.

[jgparker]

Use a magnet on a stick through the fan. If the stud is non-mangnetic, they are Dilavar, otherwise they are steel. Both steel and dilavar came coated and uncoated, so I don't know of a visual indicator that does not have a exception. Remember, Dilavar bad, steel good.

Good luck,

JP

[David]

The dilavar studs have a slight brass tint to them and they don't rust too bad although they do corrode and crack. The steel studs are darker. But the magnet is certainly the best way to tell.

If the stud is laying off to side of the stud hole, that's usually a sign that it's Dilavar (and that it's broken).

[M.D. Holloway]

As I understnd Porsche manufacturing, these guys have been know to make changes on the fly with out any engineering change notice. I guess in some cases that makes sense - is it possible that a 911 engine built in 77 as a ROW had steel and not Dilavar?

[Bob Goding]

My 77,a 911/85 had steel top and bottom ,from new.
Understand that the dilivar came with the 930, lower or exhaust.
Could be wrong.

[Porschephd]

Correct sir.

[AFJuvat]

930 had Dilivar upper and lower head studs

911 had steel uppers and dilavar lowers.

88+ 911 had steel uppers and epoxy coated dilivar lowers - which usually cured the corrosion problem (unless the epoxy was scratched)

AFJuvat

[Eagledriver]

Well according to all the books the 77 was the first year to have dilavar bottom studs. The tops should be steel and so unless your engine has been apart you shouldn't have to worry about the top studs. It doesn't much matter what your studs are made of until one breaks or you have the engine apart and can change them.

-Andy

[M.D. Holloway]

so far I have had no issue with oil leaks or even heat. It is an ROW engine and unless I am nuts, there are no thermal reactors. The engine doesn't get as hot as I have heard others getting. Let me ask you all a question - The 77 I have is in really good shape, about 90K on her. My goal is to re-do her so she is nea mint. Her body has a few bit of rust here and there - about 8 that I have counted about the size of a pea. The engine seems sound and the transmission gets a bit wierd now and them. Big question - this is a 3 to 5 year project, what to tackle first? The body? The enigine? the transmission? or is this a chicken and egg story?

[Eagledriver]

It sounds to me like you'd do well to restore the body first. If the engine is good then don't mess with it. The tranny can be rebuilt when you can't stand the way it shifts anymore (grinding).

-Andy

[M.D. Holloway]

makes sense - I guess if I want a real wiz bang body/paint job I am looking at 3 to 4 large? Anybody know of a reputable guy in the Dallas/Forth Worth area?