Need help, engine work coming

[sushinav]

I just discovered a broken head stud on my 87 with 133k miles. I live in So Cal, and this is going to blow my tight budget.
1. What should I really have done besides replace the head studs "while I'm in there."
2. Who is recommended in SoCal San Diego/ Orange county area, that can help me get this done on a budget, but done right?

I'd like to walk away with a 3.6 or twin plugged 3.5, but that ain't gonna happen and I need $$ help as opposed to dyno help. This 911 has to last me a long time.

[mike95125]

Motorworks of San Diego on Island street does good work for low $$$

[Carrera3.5L]

Sorry to hear the bad news! It's not fun, especially when you're not expecting it or prepared for it.

As someone who just built a 3.5L twin-plug but realizes what is involved with even a stock rebuild (both in cost and time), it isn't going to be cheap if you aren't doing it yourself.

If I were in your position, I would seriously consider having the heads redone while they are off. Have the valves checked and replaced if necessary, replace all guides and maybe change the valve springs as well, after all you do have over 100K on it and this would be the time to do it. If you can find the means, installing a set of 964 or 20/21 cams would also be a wise choice at this time.

While the cylinders are off due to changing the head studs, take the opportunity to change the rod bolts to ARP units. Will solve the rod bolt issue and can be done without splitting the case.

Since larger 98's and 100's appear out of the question and depending on the stock 95's condition, you may wish to rering the pistons.

Cheap and well-done don't usually go together, the last thing you want to do is take short-cuts and have to do it all over again a few thousand miles later.

Maybe you should apply for a new credit card?

Vision Motorsports in Laguna Hills and Andial in Santa Ana are two shops that both come to mind in the O.C. area that do an excellent job, albeit not inexpensively.

If you are on a real tight budget, I have a few 911 engine builder friends (ex or current Andial/PMNA builders) that do side job work that would be cheaper then going to a shop but yield similar results with respect to quality. Obviously, this would also take longer as it would be an after hours job but if money is a serious issue...

Ralph

[Henry Schmidt]

SUPERTEC PERFORMCE

DO A SEARCH ON THIS SITE FOR REFERENCES

[sushinav]

Good tips, really appreciate it and the pep talk. And I have been searching dutifully. I've gotten similar ideas from everyone as far as what to do: all steel studs, valve guides, maybe exhaust valves, chain ramps, oil tubes, all seals/gaskets, motor mounts, check bearing for wear.

The one difference is on reringing the pistons. Some say do some say don't. Any ideas here?

Costs around 4k from all. I was going to save money by pulling the engine and doing some of the tear down myself. But one good shop said they would prefer to just bring them the car. They can then be responsible for it running and check any other items they may see. Sounds like a good reason.

[fintstone]

Tough break! Turn disappointment into opportunity and fix those "while you are in there" type things. Talk to Henry at Supertec about your wants and your budget....It is like talking motorhead stuff to Yoda! He will give you all the options and what they will cost. I used the 20/21 cams mentioned above in mine and love them...but I don't really know about for your application...

I took my car from Albuquerque to Costa Mesa for a Supertec built engine and have never regretted it. People send him engines from all over the world. I certainly would not think twice about where to go for engine work if I lived in southern CA. In the long run...it doesn't cost any more to use the best. I hwas also on a limited budget, but wanted to commit to as much engine as I could possibly afford (but no more)..without worrying about the price creep that a lot of shops have once they get your engine opened up and you are stuck with them. Henry gave me a price in advance and that is exactly what it cost me. I love my engine...it is exactly what I asked for. Feel free to email me if you want references or have any questions....or just do a search here.

[Wayne 962]

Get one of the Engine Rebuild Books first, so that you know which questions to ask:

http://www.101projects.com

-Wayne

[sushinav]

Thanks Wayne, and I have been using the "Engine rebuild wizard" web feature also. Very helpful.

[rcwaldo]

Sushinav, sent you an email

Chris

[sushinav]

So far I have some great info and help from you guys. Thanks.

From the shops I have contacted. All are pretty close on price and recommendations. But several expert opinions have been to just keep driving it until something serious happens or it has running issues. Some folks have had engines that ran fine with 3 or 4 broken studs for quite awhile. And it does run fine now. So I may just drive and enjoy it, still undecided. Any reasons why I should not drive it as is?

[350HP930]

My car ran great with one broken head stud, but I could hear the head lifting when boost kicked in.

It also appeared to be fooling my knock sensor into thinking that the engine was pinging when it did which would result in some immediate detuning via ignition retardation.

With the exception of some metal fretting at the cylinder and head interface it didn't appear to cause any additional damage.