Any suggestions for removing my 911 case studs without the expensive snap on tool?
 

I'm certain the snap-on tool is the way to go but I've only found them in kits and I can't afford to buy the entire set. I'd like a used one or if anyone can offer an alternative that won't damage my case then I'm listening.

Thanks for your time and support.

Best Regards,

Alex

I have a set of Cornwell's that use three cam like discs that bite into the stud. They worked, but had a tendency to slip. The collet type like Snap Tite is probably better. I think Pelican sells Snap Tite individually so you don't need to buy an entire set.

You can get the removal tool with just the individual collets direct from Snap On: Stud Removal Tool

Can't you use a small pipe wrench?

Your regular Snap-On guy will order just the parts you need. There are also some removal tools sold by Harbour Freight Tools, but they don't work as well, and Sears sells some but I have no history with them: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/search.do?keyword=Bolt+Out&displayTarget=searchres ults&vertical=TOOL&adCell=P10&BV_SessionID=@@@@028 4752186.1108390130@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccffadddlggeklf cehgcemgdffmdggg.0

I use the ones sold by Baum Tools. See my posts on this thread Much cheaper and less clunky than the SnapOn ones.
-Chris

I have the snap-on tool, but I double-jam-nutted some when they were really tough and the tool slipped.

Use plenty of heat and steady pressure. A sharp motion when removing can snap them...

Heat up the case and you won't need the expensive tool.
I used mapp gas and double-nutted the studs (at least the 11 that weren't broken) with some extra nuts I had laying around, used a ratchet stype box end wrench, no problemo. One of the easier things I've done on this car.
PS on the broken stud I just used a regular ole vise grips to get it moving then switched to channel locks.

Heat is your friend. Get the case around the stud hot enough to vaporise oil.

If you are discarding the studs then you can buy a cheap metric stud removal kit for $10 at your local auto parts store. It will completely destroy the threads but will get them out easily.

I lusted after the Snapon extractors but couldn't find a set at a reasonable price (even on ebay). I also needed a tool that could deal with the unthreaded remains of several broken studs. The Craftsman bolt extractors I described in this thread worked for me. Definitely use heat to soften the loctite and use an air wrench.

Heat,heat,heat. The loctite bond releases with the appropriate amount of heat. I find heating the case very difficult at best to do. The aluminum or magnesium heat sinks. For me applying the torch at the point where the stud meets the case works best.

you just heat the case around the stud and in the spigot adjacent to the stud. keep tension on the stud remover tool and when the stud starts to move, keep the heat on a bit longer until it moves easily. heat the case, not the stud.

two nuts and map gas worked nice for me

Andy

Gentlemen,

Thank you all for your valuable advice, I greatly appreciate it! I have learned a tremendous amount of knowledge from everyone's experiences.

Best Regards,

Alex

Thanks guys for finally getting the locktite/heat message, its the key to getting those seemingly really stuck studs out.

To remove the studs from my 7R mag case, I found some 1"
hex steel bar and made up a pair of nuts, Drilled and tapped 10mm in the lathe and parted off. They clamp up nice and tight with an open end wrench and a socket. Cost me nothing ,[but I did have access to the lathe]. Then I used a heat gun to break the Loctite and had no trouble winding them out with the 1 inch open end .
I also used these nuts to chuck the studs in the lathe and clean them up with a bit of emery cloth. Came up nice,with no thread damage.

Bob,

I'm curious, do you have pictures?

Thanks for your time.
Alex

If the stud is broken (and long enough) you can make new threads on it, then jam two nuts together to get it out.
Here's one of mine
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1108771940.jpg

I'd recommend against using an air-tool as someone recommended above.. Steady pressure while heating is better (ala JW). THe shock from an air tool increases the chance of one snapping.

I bought the snap on tool to do mine. I could have double nutted them and been fine. The heat on the inside of the spigot is the key.

Chris,

I agree that too much torque here can be a bad thing; I used the air wrench as a way to lessen the lateral force applied to the stud while turning it. My impression is dilivar is brittle and doesn't take kindly to lateral movement.

Here's the pics of my stud removal tools.--- the struggle is much easier with the 1" wrench and the setup works nicely in the lathe for cleaning/polishing. I used a heat gun to heat the case and deal to the Loctite,as I was a bit wary of putting the gas torch on the magnesium.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1109120759.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1109120797.jpg

Bob,

Very interesting, thank you for taking the time to take some pictures of your custom tooling. I still have not performed this operation yet, what are the possibilities of borrowing your set-up?

Best Regards,

Alex

No problem, Alex, but I am in New Zealand!--- .There must be someone on here that will volunteer to turn up a bit of hex bar for you? I made one nut fairly long to get a good set in the lathe chuck, and the thin one because there is not much thread on the top of the studs. I used POR15 on the shiny shanks after cleaning them up. The case is a '77 ,7R --its a 911/85--and I believe all the studs were original factory installation, all are magnetic, so I dont think there were any Dilivar.--A bit strange that!
My other engine is a '76--911/84 and all the housings etc are
magnesium, but the '77 aparently inherited a lot of the 930
bits that year---- camchain housings, and rocker covers are all
alloy.
Bob

I started a new thread with this question, but is it safe to put a flame on a mag case?

Yes, just don't use too hot of a flame.