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Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Up North
Posts: 1,449
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So this is the 2nd time I've done it and I seem to always run into the problem where a home-brew pry bar made up of a 2 feet long 1x2 is needed to convince the engine mount bar to flex enough to line up with the engine mount.
And it always take me hours (I spent 4 hours to line up the 4 bolts last night) to line everything up. As background - I use a motorcycle jack to hold the engine/tranny so its very stable. Is there a trick that I miss to get that last millimeter of alignment?
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87 930 K27HFS/B&B/Twin-Plug... Megasquirted ![]() |
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I would rather be driving
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,108
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Is the tub square? Is the motor bar straight? Did you mount it backwards on the motor?
You can also loosen the motor mounts in the chassis. There is a few mm of adjustment. Just make sure to tighten them down before you get them on boost. ![]()
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Up North
Posts: 1,449
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I haven't sent my car to a jig so can't be 100% sure but there's no sign of accidents/repair done ever. And everything shuts properly.
The motor bar is new from my 1st rebuild. We did lossne the motor mounts in the chassis & in my case, there's maybe 1mm of adjustment... Now, after the bolts went in, its straight (can use finger to tighten them) so it seems like I just need a trick to line up the chassis/engine/tranny to the exact millimeter.
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87 930 K27HFS/B&B/Twin-Plug... Megasquirted ![]() |
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