stick type red Loctite OK?

[hcoles]

A quicky...I asked my son to pick up some more locktite and he brought home the "new" stick despensor type...says high strenght/etc. Is this ok to use on 3.2 head studs or should I wait and exchange...?

Thanks,
-Henry
89 3.2 top end rebuild
making progress - p/c's and heads on right side
got powder coated sheet metal and clear coated fan and housing back today.. looks good to me...I'll post pics if people want as a reward for Loctite comments...

[hcoles]

read a bit on the web about it.....seems like it can be used in place of the liquid red....so I'm going to use it unless I hear back from a Pelican.
-h

[ChrisBennet]

The steel 993 head studs I use come with some sort of pink/red "solid" thread locker already on the (case end) threads.
-Chris

[David]

If you're setting the bolt stretch by torque rather than measuring the bolt stretch, you may get a false torque reading due to the higher friction of a dry Loctite. Does the Loctite site have any info on torque specs with the different products?

[hcoles]

Thanks for the replies. The application is when you put the case side of the head studs in the case. So there is no torqueing involved. I read on the Loctite website about the stick type and in all the text there was no mention of the results being different than the liquid form. After installing 12 studs using the stick type...I sort of like it....you can get good coverage on the threads and the excess doesn't run down the case. The excess does bunch up around the bottom of the stud and on my case was not real easy to wipe up.

-Henry

[ChrisBennet]

Originally posted by 125shifter
If you're setting the bolt stretch by torque rather than measuring the bolt stretch, you may get a false torque reading due to the higher friction of a dry Loctite. Does the Loctite site have any info on torque specs with the different products?

In this case (head studs), you just screw them in until a certain length is exposed (133-134mm?) so the torque aspect is doesn't come into play.

The dry/stick vs liquid Loctite torque is a good point though that I hadn't thought of.
-Chris

[AFJuvat]

It isn't really "dry" it has the consistancy of a glue stick - kinda gooey

I wouldn't imagine it woud throuw torque readings off any more than the dry stuff put on the factory fasteners.

AFJuvat

[David]

A Loctite rep came by our shop for a tech talk. The main thing I picked up from him is that when you're putting Loctite into a blind hole, you should put it in the hole not on the bolt. The reason is that there's air in the hole and as you screw the bolt in the air prevents the Loctite from flowing into the hole. He had a cool plexiglass block with a threaded blind hole to show us. Sure enough when he screwed the bolt with Loctite into the hole most of it dripped off the bolt and didn't go into the threads. The stuff that went in only went down a couple of threads.

[hcoles]

Very good info., makes sense. I was thinking of that as I listened to the air bubbling out of the holes the other night while putting in the head studs.
-h

[Wayne 962]

Originally posted by 125shifter
If you're setting the bolt stretch by torque rather than measuring the bolt stretch, you may get a false torque reading due to the higher friction of a dry Loctite. Does the Loctite site have any info on torque specs with the different products?

Yes, it does - this info is in the forum archives somewhere. The Loctite when wet has very similar characteristics to lube oil, which means that torque settings should not be affected.

I still recommend red Loctite on the rod bolts - see the other thread in this forum about the rod caps falling off!

-Wayne